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So I did the LMC/HID + foglight HID's upgrade this past weekend. I got my HID's from supervtec on ebay (which I DO NOT recommend). Ever since I installed the headlights and foglights, when I lock the car, the headlights flip up then back down (No flash). Also, every once in a while, if I slowly flip the headlight switch all the way to the right, the headlights come on, but do not flip up. I never had any of these symptoms until putting in the HID's. Any ideas?
not heard of it coming from switching to HID's but the headlight up/down when locking/unlocking is usually a sign of stripped gears, do they make any grinding noises?
mine do. the left motor continues to run after the headlights are down. it makes a grinding sound then stops after a few seconds. I'm sure it's a dealer item right?! also, the lights go up on the job parking position. no lights, they just pop up. weird.
Mine don't make any grinding noise. I had a stripped gear in my last Fbody. With that, the lights would close/open and continue to make a grinding noise. These don't make any noise aside from the normal sound of the motor going up/down.
mine do. the left motor continues to run after the headlights are down. it makes a grinding sound then stops after a few seconds. I'm sure it's a dealer item right?! also, the lights go up on the job parking position. no lights, they just pop up. weird.
Fernando, it's not a dealer part. You actually have several options, first is if it has never been done you can try what is called "rotating the gear", this involves removing the arm that raises the headlight from the headlight motor, which is just one bolt, once the bolt is off you will have to fight the arm off (I used some wd-40 and a bar for leverage) then rotate the motor gear by turning the manual raise/lower **** on the headlight motor till the gear has been rotated 180 degrees, this of course is just a stopgap, it will likely break again, I know fixing my drivers side aloud me to find out my passenger side was grinding as well and then the new side of the plastic factory gear stripped out after about a dozen or less raise/lowers.
The next and most often exercised option is to replace the plastic gear with a metal gear (google Rodney Dickman headlight gear) I got the double rebuild kit from him for 79 dollars and am now 1 year free of strange headlight issues.
The other option is to replace the entire headlight motor which runs around 80 to 135 a motor depending if you go remanufactured or new from the brand Cardone at advance auto (If you go this route I suggest getting the new one as it has screws you can remove to access and replace the gear instead of having to crack the case open to replace it when it fails).
I and many others on here would suggest the metal gears instead of shelling out for the new motors as they most likely still have a plastic gear inside them. Just do a search on here there are plenty of threads on the subject.
Any advice on my problem? No strange noises coming from them. I tried a trick I heard on the internet about holding unlock on the fob for 5 seconds to reset the known lowered position. No luck.
Mine did that to thought i had a bad fuse there was no sound at all when i turned my headlights on. You could see the lights were on but i waited 20 min and they work fine again idk it was pretty weird.
did you remove the headlight assembly during your install?
if so i can argue that you didnt put it back together correctly.
check the white bumps- the light stops turning up when it feels a obstruction could easily be that when you turn your head light on it immediately feels the obstruction and stops.
there is no trick, the car doesnt save the position, it feels the need to stop moving by the white rubber pieces as they cause an obstruction by which makes the motor stop.
change your gears to rodney and be worry free, now about them popping while locking / unlocking.... never happened to me, hope it never does.
you'd want the end of the arm to be below the white rubber piece that is far inside or bottom if i may with headlights open upon removal or the bottom of the arm at the top white rubber piece with the headlights closed upon removal. Switch the arm location and you'll have one head light turning up while the other goes down lol.
funny you should mention the key fob. i haven't used it in months. it suddenly stopped working. the fob itself is sending a signal, verified by autozone's key fob tester. is it the heat in this *^##* place? it hit 106 F a few times.
well, i know it has been years but i found the problem. it was a prairie dog or something like it that was chewing up my wires. i took it to a auto repair shop a couple of years ago to get it fixed.
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Strange headlight behavior... 
