Installing Infinity 6032cf in Camaro with Monsoon
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Teching In
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From: 601
Installing Infinity 6032cf in Camaro with Monsoon Hey, I recently acquired a pair of new infinity 6032cf for cheap and I was wondering how i should go about installing these in my 2000 camaro? I realize that the stock wires are for basically components. Should i just wire the midrange wires to my speakers? how much power would i lose and are there any more cons to this?
or should i modify the speakers to be able to use all 4 wires(tweeter and midrange)?
I have seen pics of this done but how would I go about this?
I also have an aftermarket kenwood HU already installed.
or should i modify the speakers to be able to use all 4 wires(tweeter and midrange)?
I have seen pics of this done but how would I go about this?
I also have an aftermarket kenwood HU already installed.
Last edited by camw601; Jan 5, 2014 at 05:32 PM.
Teching In
Joined: May 2004
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From: Longwood, FL
Hey, I recently acquired a pair of new infinity 6032cf for cheap and I was wondering how i should go about installing these in my 2000 camaro? I realize that the stock wires are for basically components. Should i just wire the midrange wires to my speakers? how much power would i lose and are there any more cons to this?
or should i modify the speakers to be able to use all 4 wires(tweeter and midrange)?
I have seen pics of this done but how would I go about this?
I also have an aftermarket kenwood HU already installed.
or should i modify the speakers to be able to use all 4 wires(tweeter and midrange)?
I have seen pics of this done but how would I go about this?
I also have an aftermarket kenwood HU already installed.
To use those speakers, you will have to isolate the wiring going to the tweeters (clip the wires), and connect them separately to the outputs for the stock tweeters, making sure you do not bypass the onboard resistor/capacitor going to the Infinity tweeters. Otherwise you will quickly blow them up.
There is a write up here somewhere on how to do it for the Alpine SPS-170A's, which might apply to you. I can't find the URL ATM.
I will be doing this in my 98 Z28, but I'm going to have to improvise and make it work with a set of actual components. I have a set of CDT 6.5's laying around, that are gathering dust.
A pair of component coaxials, otherwise known as convertible components, would be the best solution. You'd have components that could either be mounted coaxially, or separately, with separate inputs for each. You'd still have to find a way to cross over the tweeter, though, as you wouldn't be able to use the included crossovers.
Last edited by cam94z28; Jan 5, 2014 at 11:44 PM.
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
If you just wire the midrange, you will have absolutely no highs. If you have the 6-speaker system (2-front door, 2-sail panel subs, 2 mids in rear), then you only have full range 4" mids in the rear, no highs. Things would sound VERY muddy if you wired it that way. The fronts are the only thing giving you any treble.
The door mids get full range signal while the door tweeters get signal that is high pass filtered by the Monsoon amp (Camaro only). If you connect coaxial speakers to the mid wire pair, you will get all frequencies (including treble) but you give up some power because of leaving the tweeter channel disconnected.
A pair of component coaxials, otherwise known as convertible components, would be the best solution. You'd have components that could either be mounted coaxially, or separately, with separate inputs for each. You'd still have to find a way to cross over the tweeter, though, as you wouldn't be able to use the included crossovers.
Teching In
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From: Longwood, FL
"Full range" means exactly what it says - the signal is complete with all frequencies from bass through treble. You would only experience loss of treble if the speakers you connect can't handle it, because the signal is certainly there. The hatch area speakers also get full range sound but the 4" factory speakers are designed not to produce highs well so as not to pull the sound stage too far toward the back.
The door mids get full range signal while the door tweeters get signal that is high pass filtered by the Monsoon amp (Camaro only). If you connect coaxial speakers to the mid wire pair, you will get all frequencies (including treble) but you give up some power because of leaving the tweeter channel disconnected.
The tweeters of a pair of convertible components (or modified coaxial) speakers will not require a separate crossover because the factory tweeter wires already get filtered signal from the amp.
The door mids get full range signal while the door tweeters get signal that is high pass filtered by the Monsoon amp (Camaro only). If you connect coaxial speakers to the mid wire pair, you will get all frequencies (including treble) but you give up some power because of leaving the tweeter channel disconnected.
The tweeters of a pair of convertible components (or modified coaxial) speakers will not require a separate crossover because the factory tweeter wires already get filtered signal from the amp.
However, some good 4" "full range" (tang band) speakers from providers like parts express might do a better job under the same power requirements, as they will play relatively flat all the way to 16khz or higher, from a single driver.
Everything I've read on the monsoon system says that the door mids only receive a midrange signal and the tweeters get a full range signal from the head unit, which is crossed over by a factory capacitor between the positive on the tweeter. I would assume that means that the mids are crossed over in some way, either at the amp, or the head unit.
The thread listed here on modding the Alpine SPS-170A coaxials for the Monsoon system makes it a major point not to leave the capacitor out-of-the-loop when wiring the tweeter, and mentions that mids/tweets have to be wired separately, or no treble will be produced.
If the tweeter signal is crossed over at the head unit, and the midrange signal is actually "full range", then i think the best solution would be to ignore the factory tweeter, and hook up a pair of low power, high sensitivity coaxials, direct to the mid channel. Or possibly a pair of extremely sensitive component/convertible coaxials, and either wire them separately, or through their crossovers, to the midrange channel.
I also found out last night there is a small variety of "bi-ampable" coaxials available, which would also work.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
A cheap 4" dual cone speaker is not going to produce much above 10,000hz, and might even struggle to produce cymbal crashes or sparkle. My reply was in reference to how the system would sound (muddy) with only mids up front, and the "full range" dual cone treble in the rear.
Everything I've read on the monsoon system says that the door mids only receive a midrange signal and the tweeters get a full range signal from the head unit, which is crossed over by a factory capacitor between the positive on the tweeter. I would assume that means that the mids are crossed over in some way, either at the amp, or the head unit.
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Teching In
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From: 601
So it is perfectly find hooking them up to just the midrange wires?
I will just lose power correct?what does this mean exactly though?will it just not be as loud?
What would i do with the tweeter wires? just leave them there?
Thanks
I will just lose power correct?what does this mean exactly though?will it just not be as loud?
What would i do with the tweeter wires? just leave them there?
Thanks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Assuming that we can't convince you that it is far better to get the correct speakers, yes you can hook up those coaxial speakers to the mid wires in the doors. Leave the tweeter wires disconnected and be sure to insulate them so that they don't short against each other or any metal surface (wrapping individually with electrical tape would be sufficient).
You lose approximately half of the power going to each door because you are reducing from two channels each to one channel each. That's not exact because the two channels don't have the same level of signal but it's close enough for our purposes. Losing half the power does not mean you end up with half the volume. Cutting power in half results in a 3dB drop in output volume which is noticeable but not significant - it's about the equivalent of one click of the volume ****. The fact that the replacement speakers are almost certainly more sensitive (efficient) than the factory ones will make the difference hardly noticeable. If you do notice it, adjusting your fader will take care of adjusting your sound stage forward to compensate for the power loss.
You lose approximately half of the power going to each door because you are reducing from two channels each to one channel each. That's not exact because the two channels don't have the same level of signal but it's close enough for our purposes. Losing half the power does not mean you end up with half the volume. Cutting power in half results in a 3dB drop in output volume which is noticeable but not significant - it's about the equivalent of one click of the volume ****. The fact that the replacement speakers are almost certainly more sensitive (efficient) than the factory ones will make the difference hardly noticeable. If you do notice it, adjusting your fader will take care of adjusting your sound stage forward to compensate for the power loss.
