Window Motor Module
03-20-2014, 03:58 PM
#1
Window Motor Module Hey guys.
I was attempting to replace the cracked rubber mounts that hold the wire connectors in the plastic housing that connects onto the copper pins of the switch itself and accidentally made contact between the close and open pins with a chrome plated iron key, which caused momentary sparks. Afterward, I had tested everything and all seems to still be in order. However, as in the case with an accidental shortage between the wires of the front turn signal bulb housing, I know just how vulnerable the DRL module was to damage, as the blinking for that side was shorted out and I had to replace the entire DRL module. Because of this, I am hoping to find out where the module that controls the on/off switching of the driver side window switches is located, so that if it dies, I know where I need to work.
Would anyone happen to know where the window motor module is located or what systems in general are susceptible to damage from the electrical contact mentioned above?
By the way, the best substitute I was able to find for the original rubber pieces was Fun-Tak mounting putty. It was softer, so I had to apply a lot of it. Is this stuff electrically conductive? The amount that's on there now covers both sides of the switch... I'm thinking of pulling that off and applying some silicone, since that hardens and sticks a lot better, thus requiring much less coverage.
Many thanks in advance.
I was attempting to replace the cracked rubber mounts that hold the wire connectors in the plastic housing that connects onto the copper pins of the switch itself and accidentally made contact between the close and open pins with a chrome plated iron key, which caused momentary sparks. Afterward, I had tested everything and all seems to still be in order. However, as in the case with an accidental shortage between the wires of the front turn signal bulb housing, I know just how vulnerable the DRL module was to damage, as the blinking for that side was shorted out and I had to replace the entire DRL module. Because of this, I am hoping to find out where the module that controls the on/off switching of the driver side window switches is located, so that if it dies, I know where I need to work.
Would anyone happen to know where the window motor module is located or what systems in general are susceptible to damage from the electrical contact mentioned above?
By the way, the best substitute I was able to find for the original rubber pieces was Fun-Tak mounting putty. It was softer, so I had to apply a lot of it. Is this stuff electrically conductive? The amount that's on there now covers both sides of the switch... I'm thinking of pulling that off and applying some silicone, since that hardens and sticks a lot better, thus requiring much less coverage.
Many thanks in advance.
03-21-2014, 07:09 AM
#2
You're in luck - there is no module (or even relays) for the power windows other than the the express down module for the driver's window. You don't have to worry about that module being damaged by power being applied to the wrong wire because every one of the terminals on it get power at one time or another. That's because the window motors work by reversing polarity so a terminal that is ground during up operation has power during down operation.
But a good takeaway would be that if you are going to be working with live uninsulated circuits, it's best to disconnect the battery first.
But a good takeaway would be that if you are going to be working with live uninsulated circuits, it's best to disconnect the battery first.
04-02-2014, 12:14 AM
#3
You made my day! Thank you.
This was the original setup:
Then, once the rubber pieces broke off, I used Fun-tak putty as a replacement:
If that ever comes loose again, I'll be using liquid silicone since its hardened state resembles most closely to the original stuff plus I won't have to cover as much as I did with the Fun-tak.
This was the original setup:
Then, once the rubber pieces broke off, I used Fun-tak putty as a replacement:
If that ever comes loose again, I'll be using liquid silicone since its hardened state resembles most closely to the original stuff plus I won't have to cover as much as I did with the Fun-tak.