Kee's Stage 1 or 3? $300 vs $500
06-04-2014, 08:46 PM
#2
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If I remember right, stage 3 is more for people that are replacing the monsoon amp (for more power) where stage 1 is picked to work well with the monsoon amp output. So what are your long term plans? If you plan to upgrade past the monsoon amp then stage 3 if keeping monsoon amp then stage 1.
Don't think anyone other then Kee Audio themselves could comment on sound quality difference between the 2 setups, unless someone out there has a friend that got one while they got the other.
Don't think anyone other then Kee Audio themselves could comment on sound quality difference between the 2 setups, unless someone out there has a friend that got one while they got the other.
06-04-2014, 08:51 PM
#3
If I remember right, stage 3 is more for people that are replacing the monsoon amp (for more power) where stage 1 is picked to work well with the monsoon amp output. So what are your long term plans? If you plan to upgrade past the monsoon amp then stage 3 if keeping monsoon amp then stage 1.
Don't think anyone other then Kee Audio themselves could comment on sound quality difference between the 2 setups, unless someone out there has a friend that got one while they got the other.
Don't think anyone other then Kee Audio themselves could comment on sound quality difference between the 2 setups, unless someone out there has a friend that got one while they got the other.
06-04-2014, 11:03 PM
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http://keeaudio.com/fbodyspeakers.html read the sentence in each package that comes just after the speaker listing for the package:
Level 1: This system is recommended for stock Monsoon system and moderate power levels.
Level 2: This system is recommended for stock Monsoon system with moderate to high power levels.
Level 3: Recommended for all out volume from stock Monsoon and also aftermarket power amps! Loud exaust or T-Top cruising, no problem!! Does work with Monsoon stock amp also!!!
Level 4: Will work and fit with stock system, aftermarket amplification recommended for optimal sound quality and full benefit of this speaker system but will work with stock Monsoon amp as well.
Level 1: This system is recommended for stock Monsoon system and moderate power levels.
Level 2: This system is recommended for stock Monsoon system with moderate to high power levels.
Level 3: Recommended for all out volume from stock Monsoon and also aftermarket power amps! Loud exaust or T-Top cruising, no problem!! Does work with Monsoon stock amp also!!!
Level 4: Will work and fit with stock system, aftermarket amplification recommended for optimal sound quality and full benefit of this speaker system but will work with stock Monsoon amp as well.
06-05-2014, 09:50 AM
#6
I have stage 3 and stock Monsoon amp. I still haven't maxed out my volume yet since there has never been a reason to do so. It gets plenty loud. Stage 1 is basically a replacement of stock speakers. If you want a decent, noticeable upgrade I'd get the stage 2.
06-13-2014, 07:08 PM
#7
Just FYI.
I brought the Bazookas to this market specifically many years ago. I found them in the back of my suppliers warehouse and noticed this 6.5" DVC sub sitting on a shelf in the back and asked my sales guy about it immediately. This was because back then, we only had basically one option which was the Elemental Designs DVC sub but it was much too large to fit properly in the sales without modification. But it was one of the only DVC 6.5" subs back then so I had been looking for a DVC 6.5" sub and found those. I think this was like 5 years ago. Maybe more.
That being said, alot of guys would get on here and knock them because they were made by Bazooka. Bazooka is not a high end brand so they would talk crap. They work well though and have for years. No, Bazooka is not a high end company but that doesn't mean that everything they do is crap although much of it is...I'll give you that. For a stock Monsoon system, they worked flawlessly and make good bass. They also don't blow up or deteriorate like the stock subs do. I've got one in a little enclosure right now I have hit with about 300watts RMS of JBL power and it hasn't popped yet. Oh, it has wanted to on a couple of songs but it hasn't yet. Just as a little experiment that has been ongoing. I have done the same with the CDT sub to. It also doesn't show any signs of giving up.
Now, we come to the CDT Audio HD-6M DVC sub. I had this made for ME by CDT Audio for you guys. Yes it has other applications it can be used in but I had the Monsoon system in mind when I did it. It was my design and my specs but CDT built it because I don't have a speaker company that makes speakers. So I took their award winning HD-6 midbass driver and we made some changes to it...voice coil, spider, center cap, cone material, etc. I also took into account all of the things that I didn't like about the Bazookas...like the stock screw speed nuts not lining up and having to use solder or crimp connectors to attach the wires. The stock screws and speed nuts can be used with the HD-6M DVC subs and they have spring loaded terminals to make installation of them simple. No solder, no crimp connectors to mess with. strip the wires and press the buttons. Plus, they are high quality using a cast aluminum frame, proprietary cone material, CDT engineered contoured dispersion technology, etc. So, I brought a high end, 6.5" DVC sub that is tight and clear sounding, no muddy bass sub to the market for the guys who kept saying they wanted a high end quality sub. Just clear defined bass response.
So is the CDT sub upgrade worth it. In my opinion yes. It sounds better and is much easier to put in. For $79.00 more, it is more then worth it.
Here was when I was testing the prototype HD-6M DVC subs in my buddies 01 WS6:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...9569516&type=3
Note the Sharpy writing on the back of the pre production versions I was testing. Obviously the finished production version has an actual sticker on the back of it. Those are still in his car also banging away in case you were wondering how they fared.
The big jump from Level 2-3 in the Firebird version is the doors. Just so you know, the EU-61CV.2 components are supposed to be $299.99 by themselves. What this means is you get a set of HD-6M DVC subs and a set of CL-4EX coaxials for $159.00 in the Level 3 package. I get a discount by ordering these as a full set that I do not get when I don't order them together. It is a ridiculous savings and I pass this on to you guys.
In the Camaro version, you guys have a Level 2.5 now because CDT has a really nice carbon fiber component set that I wish fit in Firebird's also but it won't fit in that mount. The mount is bigger in the Camaro. They also did a special Mega Bass...the MB in EU-6MB.2 (the .2 is 2ohm) subwoofer for your guys to give you something special as well. It is a really nice extended range subwoofer that can hit a little higher then normal as well utilizing a special aluminum ring to change the way the sound comes off the cone. Cool stuff.
To clarify further....any of the packages work just fine with the stock amp. You only need about 20-25watts of power to get full performance out of any of these speakers. This is due to the high sensitivity level. A higher db rating means you need less power to have them perform. Here is a little chart you can use:
Speaker Sensitivity rating Power needed to produce a given volume
Speaker A 85 dB 100 watts
Speaker B 88 dB 50 watts
Speaker C 91 dB 25 watts
They will of course perform just as well at higher power levels.
So, back to the original question after my rant, yes I would opt for the better subs and a small roll of sound deadener for the sail panels when you put them in.
Hope that helps you and others out in trying to figure out which route to go!
If you have any further questions guys please feel free to shoot me an email:
keeaudio@bellsouth.net
so you can copy and paste it.
Please check out all the pics on my Facebook page as well. Lots of your cars are on there, cars I have done, etc. Still have a ton more pics to get up to.
Thanks!!
I brought the Bazookas to this market specifically many years ago. I found them in the back of my suppliers warehouse and noticed this 6.5" DVC sub sitting on a shelf in the back and asked my sales guy about it immediately. This was because back then, we only had basically one option which was the Elemental Designs DVC sub but it was much too large to fit properly in the sales without modification. But it was one of the only DVC 6.5" subs back then so I had been looking for a DVC 6.5" sub and found those. I think this was like 5 years ago. Maybe more.
That being said, alot of guys would get on here and knock them because they were made by Bazooka. Bazooka is not a high end brand so they would talk crap. They work well though and have for years. No, Bazooka is not a high end company but that doesn't mean that everything they do is crap although much of it is...I'll give you that. For a stock Monsoon system, they worked flawlessly and make good bass. They also don't blow up or deteriorate like the stock subs do. I've got one in a little enclosure right now I have hit with about 300watts RMS of JBL power and it hasn't popped yet. Oh, it has wanted to on a couple of songs but it hasn't yet. Just as a little experiment that has been ongoing. I have done the same with the CDT sub to. It also doesn't show any signs of giving up.
Now, we come to the CDT Audio HD-6M DVC sub. I had this made for ME by CDT Audio for you guys. Yes it has other applications it can be used in but I had the Monsoon system in mind when I did it. It was my design and my specs but CDT built it because I don't have a speaker company that makes speakers. So I took their award winning HD-6 midbass driver and we made some changes to it...voice coil, spider, center cap, cone material, etc. I also took into account all of the things that I didn't like about the Bazookas...like the stock screw speed nuts not lining up and having to use solder or crimp connectors to attach the wires. The stock screws and speed nuts can be used with the HD-6M DVC subs and they have spring loaded terminals to make installation of them simple. No solder, no crimp connectors to mess with. strip the wires and press the buttons. Plus, they are high quality using a cast aluminum frame, proprietary cone material, CDT engineered contoured dispersion technology, etc. So, I brought a high end, 6.5" DVC sub that is tight and clear sounding, no muddy bass sub to the market for the guys who kept saying they wanted a high end quality sub. Just clear defined bass response.
So is the CDT sub upgrade worth it. In my opinion yes. It sounds better and is much easier to put in. For $79.00 more, it is more then worth it.
Here was when I was testing the prototype HD-6M DVC subs in my buddies 01 WS6:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...9569516&type=3
Note the Sharpy writing on the back of the pre production versions I was testing. Obviously the finished production version has an actual sticker on the back of it. Those are still in his car also banging away in case you were wondering how they fared.
The big jump from Level 2-3 in the Firebird version is the doors. Just so you know, the EU-61CV.2 components are supposed to be $299.99 by themselves. What this means is you get a set of HD-6M DVC subs and a set of CL-4EX coaxials for $159.00 in the Level 3 package. I get a discount by ordering these as a full set that I do not get when I don't order them together. It is a ridiculous savings and I pass this on to you guys.
In the Camaro version, you guys have a Level 2.5 now because CDT has a really nice carbon fiber component set that I wish fit in Firebird's also but it won't fit in that mount. The mount is bigger in the Camaro. They also did a special Mega Bass...the MB in EU-6MB.2 (the .2 is 2ohm) subwoofer for your guys to give you something special as well. It is a really nice extended range subwoofer that can hit a little higher then normal as well utilizing a special aluminum ring to change the way the sound comes off the cone. Cool stuff.
To clarify further....any of the packages work just fine with the stock amp. You only need about 20-25watts of power to get full performance out of any of these speakers. This is due to the high sensitivity level. A higher db rating means you need less power to have them perform. Here is a little chart you can use:
Speaker Sensitivity rating Power needed to produce a given volume
Speaker A 85 dB 100 watts
Speaker B 88 dB 50 watts
Speaker C 91 dB 25 watts
They will of course perform just as well at higher power levels.
So, back to the original question after my rant, yes I would opt for the better subs and a small roll of sound deadener for the sail panels when you put them in.
Hope that helps you and others out in trying to figure out which route to go!
If you have any further questions guys please feel free to shoot me an email:
keeaudio@bellsouth.net
so you can copy and paste it.
Please check out all the pics on my Facebook page as well. Lots of your cars are on there, cars I have done, etc. Still have a ton more pics to get up to.
Thanks!!
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