NHRA complient rear battery relocation?
NHRA complient rear battery relocation? I plan on relocating my battery to the spare tire location on my 02 trans am. I understand in order to keep things NHRA compliant you need an NHRA compliant sealed box and a visible kill switch on the exterior of your car. Problem is that I don't want to have a visible kill switch where anyone can kill the power to my car including my alarm as I will be using as a street car as well. Is there anyway around this issue?
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 563
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From: Central,NJ
Good question, has to be some kind of a loop hole. Rear mount batteries are becoming more common right from the factory on many newer cars...and most likely that is the loop, if it came factory equipped no external kill required.
exactly! I didn't even think about that. I might try to stop by the place that hosts the autocross event that I plan on attending and ask them about it.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
I have no idea if it would be NHRA compliant but you could mount two kill switches in parallel with one securely inside (e.g. under the hood) and the other visible on the exterior. When running in an event you turn off the interior switch so that the exterior one would function as the primary kill switch. For street use you leave the interior switch on so that even if someone plays with the exterior switch everything still works.
I have no idea if it would be NHRA compliant but you could mount two kill switches in parallel with one securely inside (e.g. under the hood) and the other visible on the exterior. When running in an event you turn off the interior switch so that the exterior one would function as the primary kill switch. For street use you leave the interior switch on so that even if someone plays with the exterior switch everything still works.
to be NHRA compliant... you need an external and easily reachable kill switch.... period....
also, the Kill switch must kill the 12v side, not the ground side
if you are worried about your alarm... just make sure you wire power and ground for it Directly to the battery and not to the dead side of the kill switch.
also, the Kill switch must kill the 12v side, not the ground side
if you are worried about your alarm... just make sure you wire power and ground for it Directly to the battery and not to the dead side of the kill switch.
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
to be NHRA compliant... you need an external and easily reachable kill switch.... period....
also, the Kill switch must kill the 12v side, not the ground side
if you are worried about your alarm... just make sure you wire power and ground for it Directly to the battery and not to the dead side of the kill switch.
also, the Kill switch must kill the 12v side, not the ground side
if you are worried about your alarm... just make sure you wire power and ground for it Directly to the battery and not to the dead side of the kill switch.
Do the rules say the switch has to be permanently mounted? I was wondering if you could build some sort of mounting bracket that would allow the switch to be tucked away inside the car when not at an event but be remounted to be outside accessible during an event. Perhaps something similar to a trunk-lip mount that clamps to a body panel when needed?
A fancier option that would involve some body work but be quite unique... what if you put the equivalent of a gas filler with a removable, locking (or remote release) door on the right side? It would look like an ordinary gas filler door except that it would have the kill switch under it. With either a key lock or remote release it would be secure against tampering on the street. Then the door could be opened and removed at an event leaving an easily accessible (although recessed) kill switch. Since your battery will be in the right rear quarter panel, the switch and door would be conveniently close to the connections. If done well, I doubt many people would even notice that you have two "gas filler" doors.
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Verdad Gallardo To possibly add to whitebird00's with a removable switch; could it possibly be a switch hooked up to a relay that will kill the power? That way if you are running a removable switch you could just hook it up to some small wires with slip connectors on it and when you don't need it you could simply unplug the switch and connect the wires together and hide them, also you wouldn't have to run 0/1 gauge wire to the removable switch. gonna need one fat relay though.