First, I am not very electronically inclined, so please bear with me!

Background:

I am running a boost a pump which is "Direct "hotwire" 10 gauge power wire to the boost a pump on a relay so there is no pulling high amps through the stock harness"

My car wouldnt start one night, so i left it in the parking lot where i was (but then it started the next day...no issues): http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...tart-help.html ....It seemed like the fuel system was not priming, and my fuel pressure was zero.

I drove it the other day, and it drove fine, but when I got back, I decided to pop the hood, and believe I found this gremlin problem (I highly doubt it happened on that drive which was only 20 minutes)...I think it had been happening. Anyway see below - a completely fried fuse, which is the 30 amp fuse to the hotwire mentioned above. I pulled the fuse, and checked the fuel pressure gauge in accessory mode....it said 3...normally it says around 70 when cold pre-start

So my QUESTIONS are:

Why would my fuel pressure be zero (or 3 like it was when I pulled the crapped out fuse), and the car fail to start if the fuse to the boost a pump was blown? Wouldnt my stock fuel pump allow the car to start? Nothing was even priming...

I dont see how that can be right....if the fuse blows, and Im driving I go 0 FP.... lean... kaboom? wtf?

Also...

As I understand it the boost a pump (vortech / ECS) should draw around 15 amps...correct? The fuse was 30...so...How can I check the amps going through that hotwire with a multimeter, safely? Through the fuse holder?...if so how???

Will the amps be different at priming in accessory versus at full boost? This is what could be an issue...

Any recommendations on what to do? Someone told me to check the relay (how do I know how many amps this is rated for???) to see if its in good shape...

I just bought a Maxiblade fuse holders and a MaxiBlade 30 Amp fuse to replace the above fuse holder/fuse....but I question if something else is messed up....

thanks, and sorry for the long post.

 

I don't think your fuse was blown - just melted. This is still bad.

I recall a while back that there was a bad shipment of fuses from China that would melt down, like this. Given that China is still shipping fuses to us, it wouldn't be surprise me if the problem comes back.

You can use a clamp style ammeter to test the draw, but I'd start with getting some name brand fuses from a local auto parts store to replace the one that melted.

The whole concept of a fuse is that it should blow cleanly and cut the circuit. It should also NOT melt. So, I think - without a doubt - that your fuse was defective in some way. You may still have a current problem, but a quality fuse should help you trace that down more constructively.