help me figure out vats
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help me figure out vats Total electrical noob here, my car left me stranded on campus the other day so I've finally had it with the vats. usually it would start after a couple tries but this time I had to leave the car and get a ride.
so here I am wanting to do the vats repair.
I looked through the text link here https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...how-video.html
and there was a picture with a connector with the resistor wired into in a loop.
here is the picture http://vats.likeabigdog.com/resistorplug.jpg
So my question is do I just cut that connector off the end of the orange wire that comes out of the key cylinder and then solder in resistor and plug that back into the other connector it goes into, leaving the orange wire disconnected?
so here I am wanting to do the vats repair.
I looked through the text link here https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...how-video.html
and there was a picture with a connector with the resistor wired into in a loop.
here is the picture http://vats.likeabigdog.com/resistorplug.jpg
So my question is do I just cut that connector off the end of the orange wire that comes out of the key cylinder and then solder in resistor and plug that back into the other connector it goes into, leaving the orange wire disconnected?
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
That would be one way to do it but it is not necessary. It is important to unplug the connector at the base of the steering column so that the only connection between the two sensor wires to the BCM is through the resistor you add. But it is not particularly important that the new connection for the resistor is a plug-in since it is unlikely you would ever want to go back to the stock configuration. So you can cut the plug off of the BCM end of the connection and simply solder your resistor(s) across the two wires. Or you can get a couple of those Posi-Tap connectors and use them to connect the resistor(s) between the two wires with no cutting necessary.
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ok I had never saw those connectors before. If I used those I would just unplug the bcm connector and vats connector and then plug in one of those posi tap connectors into each wire of the bcm and bridge them with the corrector resistor?
doing it this way I wouldn't have to cut either of the harness connectors off and would just maybe have to solder a little bit of wire to the end of the resistors to run into each posi tap connector because I assume I can't run the ends of the resistor into those posi tap connectors?
doing it this way I wouldn't have to cut either of the harness connectors off and would just maybe have to solder a little bit of wire to the end of the resistors to run into each posi tap connector because I assume I can't run the ends of the resistor into those posi tap connectors?
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Actually, I would still put the resistor(s) at the connector under the steering column simply because it's much easier to reach. Unplug the connector going up the column to the ignition cylinder (the part with the orange sheathing) and tuck it away or tape it to another harness to keep it out of the way. The other side of the connector should have a purple/white wire and a white/black wire. Put a Posi-Tap connector on each wire then install your resistor(s) between the two of them. If you're lucky and your particular car has a resistance value that can be made with a single resistor then you can simply insert the wire ends of the resistors into the connectors - no need to solder wire onto them. But if you have one of the oddball resistance values, you'll have to make a combination of serial and/or parallel resistors to get within 10% of the specified standard VATS values so some wire and soldering will be necessary. When you have it hooked up and you've tested that it works, wrap it all up in electrical tape to prevent shorts and provide some physical protection for the wires.
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so I got a multimeter set it to 20k ohms and my key read 1.86 so 1860 right? went to radioshack purchased a pack of 1/2 watt 330 ohm and 1.5k ohm that would be the correct combo right? I couldn't find those positap connectors anywhere locally so I'll just have to order them I guess.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
The actual matching resistor code is #7 which is 1870 ohms. Your resistors add up to 1830 when in series which is well within the 10% tolerance the system allows.
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alright sweet, before I order those connectors, they have different gauge ones. From what I've read it sounds like I should order the 16-18 gauge connectors for those wires n resistors
does that sound correct or should I go with a different size
does that sound correct or should I go with a different size
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Verdad Gallardo Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Considering that there is no ignition relay, it's a pretty safe bet that isn't the problem. 
There is a starter relay that could be a source of starting problems and there's a fuel pump relay that could cause both starting and running problems. But if the SECURITY indicator light in the instrument cluster is on or flashing, it's likely that VATS is the problem. Besides, VATS has been a known source of issues and the bypass is so inexpensive that even if it turns out not to be the source of starting problems, it's still a good thing to do.
There is a starter relay that could be a source of starting problems and there's a fuel pump relay that could cause both starting and running problems. But if the SECURITY indicator light in the instrument cluster is on or flashing, it's likely that VATS is the problem. Besides, VATS has been a known source of issues and the bypass is so inexpensive that even if it turns out not to be the source of starting problems, it's still a good thing to do.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Sorry, you're right. I was thinking specifically in regards to security systems (VATS and anti-theft alarm) and not the basic wiring. Some cars have a relay to kill the ignition for the security systems but f-bodies don't have that.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Kansas
If the ignition relay is bad or is going bad it will keep the car from starting. Check it for corrosion on the tabs and to make sure it is getting good contact. When these cars first came out that was one of the main complaints about it not starting. People would just switch the relay with the ac one and if it worked problem solved.