Straight answer on what drl/ turn signal bulb # for 99 t/a?????????
#1
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Went to autozone today to pickup some drl bulbs for my 99 t/a (one was discolored) . I've googled what # and some say 3157 and 4157? So I had autozone look them up and they said 2057 which is totally wrong
I decided to go home and pull my bulbs to see what they are. Well there was one 4157 and one 3757 wtf! So I want to know which exact bulb goes in there ? Amber color of coarse! And if those #'s both work which one runs cooler in temp? Thx
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#2
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Moving to electrical.
The "straight" answer is in your owners manual - 3157NA for the front bulbs. Many other bulbs will have the same socket, but the filament(s) will have a different wattage/brightness. (I recall some may have the bright/dim filament reversed, as well - this would not make you legal.)
Some stores may not have the 3157NA. I recall that the 4157NA is close enough that some bulb manufacturers will call it out as a valid/legal replacement for our cars.
The "straight" answer is in your owners manual - 3157NA for the front bulbs. Many other bulbs will have the same socket, but the filament(s) will have a different wattage/brightness. (I recall some may have the bright/dim filament reversed, as well - this would not make you legal.)
Some stores may not have the 3157NA. I recall that the 4157NA is close enough that some bulb manufacturers will call it out as a valid/legal replacement for our cars.
#4
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There are several bulbs that will fit and work with slight differences in their specs.
3057NA - 1.5cp / 24cp
3157NA - 2.2cp / 24cp
3357NA - 2.2cp / 30cp
3457NA - 2.2cp / 30cp
4157NA - 2.2cp / 24cp
(cp = candlepower)
The 3157 and 4157 are essentially identical except that the 4157 draws slightly more power (2.23 amps versus 2.10 amps). This is designed for use in vehicles with CAN-BUS systems that detect burned out bulbs by current draw. The only difference it would make in an f-body is a slight change in the timing of turn signal flashes - assuming you still have the factory style thermal flasher.
There are also long life versions of the 3157 and 4157 (designated 3157NAKR and 4157NAKR respectively). The difference in life span is dramatic, tripling the life of the bright filament (1,200 hours to 3,600 hours) and doubling the life of the dim filament (5,000 hours to 10,000 hours).
The 3357 and 3457 are noticeably brighter for turn signals and DRLs but they also run hotter so they wouldn't make a good choice for an f-body.
3057NA - 1.5cp / 24cp
3157NA - 2.2cp / 24cp
3357NA - 2.2cp / 30cp
3457NA - 2.2cp / 30cp
4157NA - 2.2cp / 24cp
(cp = candlepower)
The 3157 and 4157 are essentially identical except that the 4157 draws slightly more power (2.23 amps versus 2.10 amps). This is designed for use in vehicles with CAN-BUS systems that detect burned out bulbs by current draw. The only difference it would make in an f-body is a slight change in the timing of turn signal flashes - assuming you still have the factory style thermal flasher.
There are also long life versions of the 3157 and 4157 (designated 3157NAKR and 4157NAKR respectively). The difference in life span is dramatic, tripling the life of the bright filament (1,200 hours to 3,600 hours) and doubling the life of the dim filament (5,000 hours to 10,000 hours).
The 3357 and 3457 are noticeably brighter for turn signals and DRLs but they also run hotter so they wouldn't make a good choice for an f-body.
#5
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The 3157 and 4157 are essentially identical except that the 4157 draws slightly more power (2.23 amps versus 2.10 amps). This is designed for use in vehicles with CAN-BUS systems that detect burned out bulbs by current draw. The only difference it would make in an f-body is a slight change in the timing of turn signal flashes - assuming you still have the factory style thermal flasher.
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#7
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Usually "LL" means Long Life. So you may see the bulb labeled 3157NALL. I've never seen 3157NAKR (unless the KR means Krypton), but a quick google search did turn up some hits (although not from the typical sources).
Also for clarification of color codes (for those that don't know):
NA = Natural Amber (amber glass not a coating)
A = Amber coated/tinted glass
R = Red coated/tinted glass
No Letter = Clear
NA is better than A because the glass itself is amber instead of a coating that can eventually burn off.
Also for clarification of color codes (for those that don't know):
NA = Natural Amber (amber glass not a coating)
A = Amber coated/tinted glass
R = Red coated/tinted glass
No Letter = Clear
NA is better than A because the glass itself is amber instead of a coating that can eventually burn off.
Last edited by VIP1; 07-07-2016 at 02:49 AM.