Using Monsoon Amp power
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 205
Likes: 26
From: Houston, Texas
Using Monsoon Amp power I am installing an electric cut out with a wireless remote instead of switch; in my mind I'm thinking of running the wires up in to the passenger side rear quarter pannel tie into the Monsoon amps power and leave the wirelss box mounterd and hidden in there? Can anyone suggest any forseeable issues? Is the monsoon amps power enough to power the electric cut out motor? anybody done this type of thing???
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Reagan
I wired my electric cutout off the cigarette lighter but I bet the power supply to the amp will power it just fine what is the estimated current draw what size inline fuse going to the cutout? Less than 5amps should be fine unless you got the stereo cranked up loud. Do not go upgraded the stereo fuse if it blows as a result that's when issues will start. Myself I'd say go for it don't forget to use grommets where the wires pass through metal.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
The Monsoon amp doesn't have an ignition-switched power source. It has two power wires - both orange and both battery supplied (on at all times).
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
There is nothing in that area that is ignition controlled. You could use the power antenna trigger wire (pink) through a relay as something similar to ignition controlled but it would turn off if you turn off the radio.
The best place to get power for aftermarket accessories is one of the three ports designed for that purpose in the fuse panel. There is one each for battery (constant), ignition switched and accessory (RAP enabled) power. Is the wireless box so big that it would be difficult to install under the dash? You could run the wires from the cutout in to the dash through the existing factory grommet in the firewall below the PCM... no holes to drill.
The best place to get power for aftermarket accessories is one of the three ports designed for that purpose in the fuse panel. There is one each for battery (constant), ignition switched and accessory (RAP enabled) power. Is the wireless box so big that it would be difficult to install under the dash? You could run the wires from the cutout in to the dash through the existing factory grommet in the firewall below the PCM... no holes to drill.
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 251
Likes: 4
There is nothing in that area that is ignition controlled. You could use the power antenna trigger wire (pink) through a relay as something similar to ignition controlled but it would turn off if you turn off the radio.
The best place to get power for aftermarket accessories is one of the three ports designed for that purpose in the fuse panel. There is one each for battery (constant), ignition switched and accessory (RAP enabled) power. Is the wireless box so big that it would be difficult to install under the dash? You could run the wires from the cutout in to the dash through the existing factory grommet in the firewall below the PCM... no holes to drill.
The best place to get power for aftermarket accessories is one of the three ports designed for that purpose in the fuse panel. There is one each for battery (constant), ignition switched and accessory (RAP enabled) power. Is the wireless box so big that it would be difficult to install under the dash? You could run the wires from the cutout in to the dash through the existing factory grommet in the firewall below the PCM... no holes to drill.
(I ask because I am planning to do this exact same thing, only I have an additional aftermarket amp back in the hatch for my sub so I can tie into that. FWIW I ran my cutout power wire through the grommet under the rear passenger seat up under the carpet into the hatch area. Super easy.)
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
There is no reason not to have the receiver wired as always on but there is no reason to want it that way either. After all, you're not going to be opening or closing the cutout with the ignition off.
My concern is about having the cutout itself wired to a constant feed. And if you're not going to wire the cutout to battery power then why connect the receiver that way?
My concern is about having the cutout itself wired to a constant feed. And if you're not going to wire the cutout to battery power then why connect the receiver that way?
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Thread Starter
12 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 205
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From: Houston, Texas
I ended up running it up through that rubber grommet under passenger seat under the carpet and used the traction control power as my car came with out traction control. Hid the module up under the AC vents no holes super clean wirless cut outs only uses power when ignition is on. I grounded it to the ground for the transmission controler under center console.
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