Radio stopped working
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Wilmington, NC
Radio stopped working I've got a 2000 Z28 with the monsoon audio system, but with an aftermarket head unit. I've been using this setup for more than a year with no problems, but the other day the head unit just shut off. It's not the common bcm problem where the radio and windows don't work. I've already fixed that. It's also not the two fuses because I've tested the old ones and even replaced them anyway and it didn't change anything. I hooked up the factory radio and the clock will come on but I'm not able to switch it to fm, am, tape, or the cd changer and there is no sound. I can hear the cd changer in the trunk working like it should, and I know the cd changer and monsoon amp use the same fuse. So do you guys think my monsoon amp could be broken? I've gotten water in my trunk before so maybe it could have damaged it in some way.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
It is definitely not the amp. If the amp was the problem then everything on the head unit would work (source selection, frequency or track display, etc.) but you wouldn't hear any sound.
The symptoms sound like you have a power supply problem. There are two power sources for the head unit (well actually three if you count illumination). One is constant (battery) power which runs the clock, the radio memory, and the disc eject. The other is ignition switched (technically Retained Accessory Power) which runs everything else such as source selection and signal output. It sounds like you have working constant power but no RAP power. I suggest you use a test light or multimeter to check for power on the yellow wire in the factory 10-pin black connector for the head unit (second from the end, next to the orange wire).
The symptoms sound like you have a power supply problem. There are two power sources for the head unit (well actually three if you count illumination). One is constant (battery) power which runs the clock, the radio memory, and the disc eject. The other is ignition switched (technically Retained Accessory Power) which runs everything else such as source selection and signal output. It sounds like you have working constant power but no RAP power. I suggest you use a test light or multimeter to check for power on the yellow wire in the factory 10-pin black connector for the head unit (second from the end, next to the orange wire).
While you're in there with a meter... I would check ALL fuses. You'd be surprised how many times I get customers with blown fuses and it's not related to the circuit in question at all... Can't hurt lol.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Wilmington, NC
So it turns out my aftermarket radio was toast. That's all it was. I used a test light to check all wires and fuses and they were all working correctly, so it was just the dead unit causing the issue. The reason I couldn't get the stock radio to work was that the power button got stuck. Once I pressed it hard enough the radio came on and worked. Last time I buy a radio from kenwood. I've already got a pioneer unit on the way. Thanks for your help guys. Really appreciate it.
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Bel Air, MD
It is definitely not the amp. If the amp was the problem then everything on the head unit would work (source selection, frequency or track display, etc.) but you wouldn't hear any sound.
The symptoms sound like you have a power supply problem. There are two power sources for the head unit (well actually three if you count illumination). One is constant (battery) power which runs the clock, the radio memory, and the disc eject. The other is ignition switched (technically Retained Accessory Power) which runs everything else such as source selection and signal output. It sounds like you have working constant power but no RAP power. I suggest you use a test light or multimeter to check for power on the yellow wire in the factory 10-pin black connector for the head unit (second from the end, next to the orange wire).
The symptoms sound like you have a power supply problem. There are two power sources for the head unit (well actually three if you count illumination). One is constant (battery) power which runs the clock, the radio memory, and the disc eject. The other is ignition switched (technically Retained Accessory Power) which runs everything else such as source selection and signal output. It sounds like you have working constant power but no RAP power. I suggest you use a test light or multimeter to check for power on the yellow wire in the factory 10-pin black connector for the head unit (second from the end, next to the orange wire).
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
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Teching In
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Bel Air, MD
I actually fixed it shorted it and blew the fuse after replacing the fuse it fixed itself so... I don't really know what was wrong lmao 😂😂
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