Weird headlight issue.. ??? .. Wtf? (VID)
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From: The dirty taint of the country. ...Los Angeles
Weird headlight issue..(VID) PROBLEM SOLVED!! 
Vid of issue below...
Last edited by WS6 Rampage; Jun 30, 2019 at 03:54 PM.
-Did this just start happening or is this a new car?
-Have the fog lights always worked with the high beams? If so did you jump the wires?
-I see a red light on the left of the dash above the fuse box, have you installed anything lately?
-Fix any DRL issues or headlight motors?
Just trying to narrow it down.
-Have the fog lights always worked with the high beams? If so did you jump the wires?
-I see a red light on the left of the dash above the fuse box, have you installed anything lately?
-Fix any DRL issues or headlight motors?
Just trying to narrow it down.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Also check the two headlight circuit grounds on the top of each side of the radiator support. A failed ground will cause current to back feed through the other lamps and cause the symptoms you describe. And the fog lights on with the high beams would be another indicator since the fog light circuit normally grounds through the high beams (that's why they turn off when the high beams are on because their ground is blocked).
I had a similar problem, which was caused by internal shorting inside the headlight door motor connectors. Your fog light relay test confirms my symptoms, exactly. (All the electrical for the motors and headlight bulbs goes through those connectors.) The seals in those connectors are notoriously bad and let water in, which corrodes the pins.
I've been chasing the problem down for years and was only able to solve it after re-pinning the connectors with tighter cable seals.
I've been chasing the problem down for years and was only able to solve it after re-pinning the connectors with tighter cable seals.
This thread includes my journey with replacing the connector pins and seals. The details on parts are in post #17. https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...ght-doors.html
Then the thread goes off the cliff with discussion on gears...
Post #52 has the verdict with cable seals:
Grey (stock) - horrible
Green (proper) - good/no issues
Tan (really tight) - looks OK, hard to work with, time will tell if they will hold up like the green ones
The parts to rebuild the connectors are inexpensive and can all be had from Mouser. The tools are not. The tools include a special crimper and terminal removal tool, which can run $100-$400, depending on new/used, the source, and the deal one gets.
Then the thread goes off the cliff with discussion on gears...
Post #52 has the verdict with cable seals:
Grey (stock) - horrible
Green (proper) - good/no issues
Tan (really tight) - looks OK, hard to work with, time will tell if they will hold up like the green ones
The parts to rebuild the connectors are inexpensive and can all be had from Mouser. The tools are not. The tools include a special crimper and terminal removal tool, which can run $100-$400, depending on new/used, the source, and the deal one gets.
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From: The dirty taint of the country. ...Los Angeles
PROBLEM SOLVED!!!
Ok... So the problem ended up being the pins in the headlight connector. My buddy came over and took a look at it, we cleaned the pins and after a closer inspection we discovered that the pins pushed back in the connector when plugged up. So he pushed the pins forward from the rear of the connector where the wires are. Something that small was the culprit of this whose bullshit. ... So I'll keep an eye on it. I'll most likely just buy a new connector and solder it in when I have some free time.
....
Ok... So the problem ended up being the pins in the headlight connector. My buddy came over and took a look at it, we cleaned the pins and after a closer inspection we discovered that the pins pushed back in the connector when plugged up. So he pushed the pins forward from the rear of the connector where the wires are. Something that small was the culprit of this whose bullshit. ... So I'll keep an eye on it. I'll most likely just buy a new connector and solder it in when I have some free time.
....
You can cut the wires and butt splice them. Those connectors are only there for ease of assembly. (The only pain would be that if you have to change your motor in the future, you would have to cut it out and then splice it back in.)
