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Turn Signal/Hazards/Brake/Reverse Lights Problem

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Old May 23, 2019 | 07:11 PM
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Default Turn Signal/Hazards/Brake/Reverse Lights Problem

Today, after 3 weeks of sitting, I go to turn on my car and it sounded like it was low on battery but still ended up turning on. So, my turn signals don't work as well as my hazards. brake lights and reverse lights don't work either when activated, also my gauge cluster turn indicators don't illuminate when I switch the lever to either side.

My DRL's work fine and all my other lights still work the same as always. I switch the lever to the left and no flash, switch it to the right also no flash but i did notice a faint dim on my 3rd brake light since its also LED. I did all the preliminaries like checking the flashers, fuses(swapped TAIL LAMPS and HAZARDS/STOP anyways just incase, bulbs. but they all look good. I have LED's from superbrightled.com with the electronic flasher and switched to normal incandescent bulbs and still no change. I also noticed when I switch my DRL's on, the right front amber light goes dim than the left one.

Any idea of what the issue is? I've read it can be the DRL module, which is what I'm leaning more to since I saw the dim on my right side amber light. This on a 98 T/A
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Old May 23, 2019 | 09:51 PM
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scratch 90% of all that, figured it out. forgot to check the TURN B/U fuse and sure enough, was the culprit. however still getting the dim right amber light
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Old May 24, 2019 | 01:27 AM
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silly question......did you check to see if the bulb sockets were burnt ?
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Old May 24, 2019 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by sjsingle1
silly question......did you check to see if the bulb sockets were burnt ?
yeah I replaced the socket since the internals looked burnt but that didn't seem to make a difference, I haven't replaced the 3 wires though, just switched the old socket with a new one.
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Old May 24, 2019 | 04:28 PM
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break out the multi meter to see if each of the 3 wires in the socket is getting power...ground
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Old May 27, 2019 | 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by sjsingle1
break out the multi meter to see if each of the 3 wires in the socket is getting power...ground
Yes they are. I got it to work. Now it just flashes out of sync with the driver side. Works perfectly with no drl on and turn signal and hazards are good too. When I turn my drl on along with my hazards, driver side works well with bright and dim blinking. But passenger side blinks as if drl wasn’t on and out of sync with the other side.
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Old May 28, 2019 | 09:38 AM
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You can't "turn on" your DRLs (Daytime Running Lights) - they go on with the ignition as long as the parking brake and headlights are off - so what lights are you referring to? I would guess you mean the parking/running lights that come on with the headlights. Those use a different filament in each bulb than the turn signals, hazards, and DRLs use. The bulbs have a dim filament for parking/running and a bright filament for the other functions and those filaments are on separate circuits (they're not just reducing power on a single circuit). So your left side is working properly, switching between the bright and dim circuits but the right side is only using one of those two circuits. The fact that they appear out of sync (they can't actually get out of sync since they use the same flasher) suggests that the socket wires are connected incorrectly. Perhaps you have the ground wire and one of the power wires reversed. That would cause one filament to lose its ground connection (both sides share the same ground) making it flash on-off rather than bright-dim.

There are three wires to the front lamps - black, blue and brown. Black is ground, blue is turn signal/hazard/DRL power, and brown is parking/running light power. Use your test light or multimeter to test the socket and confirm that you have ground all the time, power on the low pin with the headlights on, and flashing power on the high pin when the turn signal or hazards are on.


(image courtesy of V-LEDs)

As noted in the image, you can tell which pins are ground versus power by looking for the ones that are connected together inside the socket... you will probably need a bright light but you should see the metal connection at the bottom and/or around the end of the slot (the socket above has both).

Doing those tests should help you confirm which wires are reversed so you can reconnect them.
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Old May 28, 2019 | 11:28 AM
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On a possibly related note, on my 2000 TA the Turn/BU fuse would blow when I put the car in reverse. It was a bad backup light switch in the transmission. It was apparently a dead short because you could audibly hear the fuse pop as soon as you put the gear shift into reverse (key on/engine off - engine running would drown out the sound).
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