Guage cluster lights dont light
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Guage cluster lights dont light Hey guys, I got a 93 TA. My guage cluster lights do not go on. I checked the fuses and they all seem to be good. If you guys could offer any help on how to fix this that would be much appreciated
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
First, check that your dimmer dial isn't turned all the way down - it happens accidentally more often than you would think. Then go back and check the fuses (especially #13 - 5A and maybe #10 - 20A) with a tester or simply replace them with known good fuses. Fuses, especially 27 year old ones, can look fine but still be blown.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 30
Likes: 3
First, check that your dimmer dial isn't turned all the way down - it happens accidentally more often than you would think. Then go back and check the fuses (especially #13 - 5A and maybe #10 - 20A) with a tester or simply replace them with known good fuses. Fuses, especially 27 year old ones, can look fine but still be blown.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
You're quite right - if the other dash lights work then you can eliminate the switch, fuse and much of the wiring as the source of your problem. Nice to see someone using logic in their diagnostics. Kudos!
The instrument cluster illumination is six bulbs wired in parallel with a single power and ground connection. The power feed is the gray wire at the bottom corner of the cluster connector and the ground is the black wire right next to it. Your next step would be to pull the cluster and check those wires for proper power and ground. That will tell you if the problem is with the power source and ground or something internal to the cluster.
The instrument cluster illumination is six bulbs wired in parallel with a single power and ground connection. The power feed is the gray wire at the bottom corner of the cluster connector and the ground is the black wire right next to it. Your next step would be to pull the cluster and check those wires for proper power and ground. That will tell you if the problem is with the power source and ground or something internal to the cluster.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 30
Likes: 3
You're quite right - if the other dash lights work then you can eliminate the switch, fuse and much of the wiring as the source of your problem. Nice to see someone using logic in their diagnostics. Kudos!
The instrument cluster illumination is six bulbs wired in parallel with a single power and ground connection. The power feed is the gray wire at the bottom corner of the cluster connector and the ground is the black wire right next to it. Your next step would be to pull the cluster and check those wires for proper power and ground. That will tell you if the problem is with the power source and ground or something internal to the cluster.
The instrument cluster illumination is six bulbs wired in parallel with a single power and ground connection. The power feed is the gray wire at the bottom corner of the cluster connector and the ground is the black wire right next to it. Your next step would be to pull the cluster and check those wires for proper power and ground. That will tell you if the problem is with the power source and ground or something internal to the cluster.
Also how would i test this wire? Do i need to take some insulation off or can I just use my multimeter as is
Last edited by Edrock; Mar 1, 2020 at 08:42 AM.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
You need to get the harness connector in a position where you can see the positions of the wires by color. The gray wire in position B2 is the illumination power feed. There are two gray wires in the connector - you want the one that is between a blank (unused) position and a black wire. The one you don't want is between a purple wire and a brown/white wire. You will need to have the dash lights on when testing... the headlight switch will have to be in the parking light or headlight on position. Turn the dimmer dial up high so that you get near full voltage readings.
If you can't get that kind of access to the connector then you can try just going by position. The gray wire should be in the bottom row in the second to last position on the right. That is "should be". The pinout diagram I found is for a 95, shows the connector inverted and does not say whether the pin numbering is from the front or back of the connector: http://shbox.com/1/95_ta_cluster_pinout.jpg. The fact that it's a gray wire is the same for all model years but I can't guarantee that the position in the connector didn't change.
You should not need to remove any wire insulation - in fact, that would be a bad idea. You should be able to make contact with the metal wire terminator in the connector using the meter probe. This is where a test light is better than a multimeter because they usually have a finer tip that helps ensure you contact only the circuit you aim for. Be very careful not to allow the probe tip to contact the gray wire and the black wire next to it at the same time. That would blow a fuse because the black wire is ground.
If you can't get that kind of access to the connector then you can try just going by position. The gray wire should be in the bottom row in the second to last position on the right. That is "should be". The pinout diagram I found is for a 95, shows the connector inverted and does not say whether the pin numbering is from the front or back of the connector: http://shbox.com/1/95_ta_cluster_pinout.jpg. The fact that it's a gray wire is the same for all model years but I can't guarantee that the position in the connector didn't change.
You should not need to remove any wire insulation - in fact, that would be a bad idea. You should be able to make contact with the metal wire terminator in the connector using the meter probe. This is where a test light is better than a multimeter because they usually have a finer tip that helps ensure you contact only the circuit you aim for. Be very careful not to allow the probe tip to contact the gray wire and the black wire next to it at the same time. That would blow a fuse because the black wire is ground.
Last edited by WhiteBird00; Mar 2, 2020 at 07:11 AM.
