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Interior has been completely cleaned! the only exception is the hard foam backed plastic on the firewall. I used some car wash concentrate and buckets to clean the surfaces and rinse/dry then from firewall to back panel. The only thing I haven't removed is the headliner and dash. I have started laying down sound proofing starting in the trunk. A wood dowel, 1/2 inch, seems to work best for the areas with indents. The trunk is about 3/4 of the way done with wheel well areas left to do. I will get some pictures of the areas covered soon. While its hot in Texas, it was 80+ degrees outside and most likely 76 degrees in the garage, the material was hard to press down. I am thinking of using a heat gun to help out with the parts already down and going forward.
I did find the panel over the gas tank, just right of center looking in through the trunk, still make a lot of noise after being fully treated. I am doing the knock test to determine the best areas to apply material to. As there isn't much of a gain between 60% and 100% of area treatments from a sound standpoint I am being as economical as I can (mainly to save weight). I have 96 square feet which should be enough for the interior, doors, and panels (sail, glove box, center console).
Completed:
Interior washed, rinsed, dried (identified 2 areas under pedals where brake fluid dissolved the paint)
Past owner 4 channel amp removed (wires unplugged)
Current RCA and Amp power cable prepped for removal
Rear leather seats (and seat back) deep cleaned
To Do:
Finish trunk sound treatments
Finish trunk amp board, assemble and carpet
Measure and prep new amp power and ground cables
Start sound treatment to main cabin areas
I gave up on the carpet. Stains are just too persistent and while the Oxy-Clean/Tide Free solution helped they just couldn't get the worst of the stains out. The plastic backing of the carpet is also creased and in some areas falling apart so the carpet is getting replaced with an ACC replacement. I have a new deadline of May to get this all wrapped up in so I can get the registration inspection done in time. The timeline for the stereo install has shifted to the below:
Sound treatments
Amp board construction and mounting
Amp wiring (remove existing and run new)
Speaker wire and RCA measure and install (place holder for now)
Back-up camera wiring
"New" shock sensor installation
Install speakers into rear trunk panels (1 done and 1 to do), Sail panels
Carpet installation and interior assembly (followed by clutch master cylinder re-install)
Dash vinyl fix attempt or replacement with donor dash (which might kick off my odometer screen replacement with multi-function read out)
Door panel removal, crack fix, passenger window motor replacement, sound treatments, speaker installation and wiring
I am doing partial coverage. As metal is stronger where angles/curves are stamped into it adding coverage there isn't netting any real acoustic benefits from the research I read. That is where the 60~65% coverage area figures come in from. I am focusing coverage on the larger areas that fail the knock test (sound hollow or make definite noise). Remaining material will be used on the doors and leftovers on the plastic panel pieces with large areas that can flex.
This past weekend it was nice enough to keep the daily hauler in the driveway and move the TA back to the middle of the garage (Clutch master cylinder still IN NOT shipped so I the car is on dollies). I got 2oz bottles of primer and sunburst yellow to cover the areas where brake fluid ate the paint on the driver's side floor pan/firewall and the trunk area. I sanded and primed then painted the trunk area (3 places where past owners drilled for grounding points and the spare tire area where the paint was rubbed off, especially around the drain hole). I hope the weather can just hold on hail/tornados long enough to allow me to get the interior treatment and wiring done so I don't have to keep putting stuff in/out of the car and move it to allow the 2nd car into the garage to protect it from storms.
The back passenger area is started. The panel the rear seats sit against still makes a LOT of sound after a full sheet of material applied. The rear seat bowls don't make much sound when knocked so I am skipping all but the bottoms for treatments. The transmission tunnel's top and larger side sections will be treated. After I get the rear treated (and the touch up paint in the trunk dries I'll finish those 2 areas and move to the more complex task of wiring lay outs. Most of the speaker cables were cut and the sail/door panels were spliced into by the past owner. I will be running larger wire so now I am going to take the wires/harness out (the one for the monsoon amp to speakers). The rear seat area still needs coverage around the sail area (not sure how to best handle the styrofoam arm rest fillers as styrofoam on metal loves to squeak). The sail/speaker brackets were all broken (the c-clip looking pieces of plastic), I am not sure if this will cause issues and need replacing or not. As I have XTC foam baffles for all the speakers treating behind the sail speakers might not be needed. I'll have to fish the new speaker wires into the OEM locations (wrapping with tape to hopefully lesson any noise).
I am thinking of applying some material to the back of the plastic panels but am not sure if this will make any real difference? Not all the much to take pictures of as progress is slow and not all that exciting. I'm taking images once I complete an area to show what has been covered.
So far the most problem areas for treatment are:
Trunk driver's side around the gas filling area, lots of hollow panels failing the "knock test"
Top cargo area over the gas tank - more on the passenger side
Trunk panels where the t-top holders bolt into (both sides)
Rear seat back panel passenger side opposite the fuel tank sending pass-through connection
The wiring has nice little guide holders but the wrap is closer to stock electrical tape and its noisy so I'll be wrapping in a cloth type tape. I am thinking to getting some extra jute as the 3 pieces that came with my carpet at really thin and only cover the front and rear floor board areas.
Honestly I haven't really thought about the door panels that much. I know my splits are B-A-D on both doors, all the way through. I got a plastic welder and watched a bunch of YouTubes on using the welder on multiple applications including fenders, bumpers, doors and dashes. Getting the fiberglass resin to bond correctly with the plastic is the key. I actually would prefer this type of fix (if there is a good way get the 2 ends close enough and stay there until the resin if fully dry). Maybe a hybrid approach, shaving down some plastic to create an indent, fiberglass, then cover the fiberglassed ends with "bands" of plastic welding rods to "bury" them into the panel, perhaps this is overthinking it?
From the videos I saw the best option looks to be using thicker zip ties to melt into the door at right angles to the split. Can't really use metal as that is what caused the splits in the first place (difference in heat expansion/contraction between metal and plastic). As the doors split at the weakest point I think placing thicker zip ties at every 1 to 1-1/4 in should re-enforce enough to keep the door together. The key is how the cosmetics turn out, who cares how ugly the back is as long as the front is passable. I know I can't get the crack lines to disappear and filling them gets into the color match nightmare. I can live with a hairline crack or outline, maybe try my heat gun on the front as long as the texture doesn't go glossy or melt into a smoother surface. Once the sound dampening material is down, wiring is laid down, new carpet is in and interior is mostly back together I'll start practice welding on cheap plastic paint roller pans to get a technique down then go at the door panels.
Now 2 of them mention using metal to help bring the 2 sides together, staples or paper clips. I am skeptical of this due to the heat/cold and materials issue. The above videos show the techniques and my idea was to join the areas using those techniques and actual plastic welding rods then use the zip ties "on top" of the repaired area running at right angles and half way melted into the panel. Plastic is just really hard to get stuff to "stick to".
I really think using metal would only add to the problem, I agree with you.
You made me feel better by sharing! lol
My driver's side has about a 1/2" crack in the usual spot, its small. The passenger side is about 3/4 of the way through.
The wizard who installed my Kee speakers tried some kind of plastic welding, and he had a special welding tool -- the repairs failed on both door panels.
That's why I'm saying fiberglass now.
I also think nuts and bolts on the weatherstrip may be a help. For added movement.
Not much of an update, update. Sound proofing has become a slow process.
Trunk area is still 95% done, far back area is all that remains
Passenger side sail panel area and rear seat is now done and footrest areas to the firewall are next
Touch up prime, sand, paint, sand on drivers side where brake fluid collected is done but I can't get the firewall foam to dry out
Old amp power wire has been removed
New power wire is in the car and will look at passing through the firewall soon
Passenger side sail speaker removed (Pioneer decent power rating versions, new Kenwoods will be mounted with baffles and spacer brackets (need to run the new speaker wires)
Carpet jute is kicking my butt as I can't get the front 2 pieces oriented rights, the extra I got will take care of the rear cargo deck and back seat area, hopefully the trans tunnel too
I have lost my amp mounting board???? I moved it to keep it dry during our spring rain when parking the daily in the garage but now I can't find it
And of course my registration is due for a renew. I HAVE to get this sorted, even if not completely done soon so I can get the state inspection done and new registration before the end of June. This all hinges on getting the master cylinder re-installed and clutch working AGAIN. On the positive side I think the sound proofing and at least the wiring will be where it needs to be so after getting the carpet and seats back in I won't need to go this far again. As I am going to use my own speaker wiring this will be a big part, getting the door speaker wires added to the looms and the RCA prepped. As all this was kicked off by finding the brake fluid leaking and decision to remove the full carpet to address the fluid leaked, well if I can get most of it out of the way the remainder will be a snap to fix up (head unit, steering wheel switches adapter wiring, backup camera hook up, front door speakers, dash cam).
Updates, super slow as life pounded me and made me re-prioritize a LOT! Anyway, work is coming along and while super slow any progress is progress.
Passenger side sound dampening is all the way to the firewall, only the door left to do
Driver side rear seat and sail panel sound dampening is done
Both rear sail Kenwood speakers are mounted in baffles, wired,
New loom for speaker wires, RCA and amp turn on done and ready to go
Factory speaker wires have been removed (except for the doors)
Amp power wire is installed (battery to trunk), all ends crimped and all fuse blocks ready
Rear Kicker speakers are installed in baffles, bass blockers wired in and ready to attach to terminal speaker leads
Motion sensor replaced and wired into OEM pigtail and ready to install
The amp board disappeared and has to be re-cut, at least I still have the template I made. The back up camera is conflicting with the license plate light and I am getting a "universal" bracket to see if I can make it work there or on the bottom. I finally found a picture of the correct way to orient the batting so that will be a relatively easy job when I can get that far. I plugged the old amp wire hole in the firewall behind the accelerator, will need to prime and paint one edge as it is starting to turn brown. After the sound dampening is finished on the driver's floor board I can get the carpet batting and carpet in, rear seats, sail panels, seat belts, etc. and then get back to the primary job of getting the clutch master cylinder in (seats installed so I can adjust and get the car ready for inspection and registration that is 2 years behind now). All wiring will be ready to go so once the amp board is cut, carpeted, and installed I can get the amps in, subs in, attach all the speaker wires and then tackle the head unit install. Door speakers will be last as I will have to replace the passenger power window motor, fix the door cracks, mod the window seals, while the panels are off, don't want to go back in multiple times. I intended to film and document each step but that quickly fell by the wayside. I do have the before and during picks and am adding the below to it. Still coming along just way slower than expected.
Main fuse block under the hood, 4 way distribution block in trunk with fuses as well Driver side rear and sail sound proofed and new speaker installed and wired Passenger side sail sound proofed and new speaker installed and wired, old speaker wires removed, amp lead to run in their place Passenger side rear speaker in the panel and wired up ready to go Driver side rear speaker in the panel and wired up ready to go
My goodness, its been way too long since I posted an update, mainly because not much has happened, lol but 1 good day I was able to get over a crucial hump!
Carpet batting/jute was mock fitted, cut, and is not in the car (after vacuuming up all the dust and trash collected over slow work sprints here and there)!
Carpet (previously cut, is now in the car and just needs fine trimming to get right.
All RCA and Speaker cables have been loomed and tied down.
Power from battery to trunk has been tied down.
Shock sensor has been mounted
Previous missed updates
Head Unit installed and tested (no sound but power and features like GPS, AM/FM radio reception, etc.)
Not fully installed as dashcam and GPS wiring needs to be run
Custom graphic installed on Radio (very critical for everything
Steering Wheel control interface installed and tested, works great!
Back-Up camera mounted (slight modifications required), wires run but not powered on or tested yet
Left To Do
Size and mount board for power and ground distribution blocks
Install amp board (install and wire Amps with power and speakers)
Re-Install all interior pieces (seats, trim, console, etc.)
Install dashcam
Install GPS receiver antenna (under dash)
Power up and confirm backup camera
Install USB port stereo plug (replace cigarette lighter)
Install subwoofer boxes (2)
Install larger alternator (145+)
Upgrade alternator big 3 (power to alternator, body ground, engine ground)
Install new door speakers
Interior ready for carpet 3 piece drivers side After 1
3 piece passenger side After 2
Rear seat and deck After 3
Rear deck (covers back seat behind seat back area too After 4
I found an image from my first power on test of the head unit. The steering wheel connections were easy enough, I ended up pinning the OEM wires into the Metra wiring harness and connecting to the steering wheel adapter, worked like a charm the first time I powered on and did the learning process. I could not use the Kenwood metal sleeve and just attached the mounting "ears" to the radio case. The only issue so far is the antenna power lead raises the antenna all the time, not just when the radio is active. I won't be putting the car through a car wash so that isn't all that much of a big deal. I haven't tried to update the GPS yet and won't be "locking down" the head unit until I get the dash-cam and GPS antenna wires run. Adding the custom graphics is a nice touch.
Thanks @wannafbody, if I need to do anything in future I'll look into their products. The issue were the mounting screws in the package were just too short. A quick trip to the hardware store solved that issue. I mocked it up and with the bezel supplied it looks nice. The one visual issue is the black of the radio trim is way darker than the bezel, I can live with it over the gaudy Pioneer single din the last owner put in. I am still paused due to life/job time commitments that have really limited my free time. Work is still getting done, just at a glacial pace.
Well, not much progress lately but progress none the less. Glove box was re-installed (found out one side of the hinge was bent and this was causing the box to not close fully and keep the light on, so fixed that and it works now). Not that this was a big deal but I took it out to gain access to the OEM harness and with that now gone I can at least get this done. I cleaned it with simple green and Mother's VLR and decided to clean the passenger side of the dash while I was at it. The air bag cover is still curling up on the ends and I don't think this will ever get back to the right look. I still have a donor dash but getting it professionally done is outrageous, plus they can't replicate the SRS Airbag logo. I can't take on the side project of doing the dash yet. I need to stay on point and get the interior back together so I can get this back on the road!
I also finally found all 3 clutch penal sensor wire harnesses so I could dial the sensor all the way in so I will not get codes related to the pedal. I still have to adjust the pedal height but will need the carpet fully installed in stead of just sitting on the floorboard. Few of the holes I cut for the seat studs are lining up right and it isn't sitting right. At least it is getting up to 90 degrees in the garage so the heat will hopefully assist in getting the mold to apply to the carpet. I just wish the carpet was fitting better, it is sitting down just not all the way and it is too tight is some areas and touching the floor.
I looked at the old amp board and can use this for the power distribution block in the spare tire compartment. It needs to be trimmed a tad along 1 edge and being fiberboard it will make a big mess when I cut it down. I have the carpet I got for the amp board that I don't need now that I have a real amp board so I will cut this down then wrap in carpet and glue/staple. This way I can get the power wire and finally install the ground into a bid distribution block so I can wire up the 3 amps. I am thinking of using the spare tire nut for the ground wire, that way no drilling is needed. This would be big in that I could finally get the amps onto the amp board and test the sail 3 way speakers and the rear deck mid/tweeters. I have the hardware to install the amp board per the instructions and now that the carpet is at least mostly ready I can put the trunk liner back in and with the t-top holders. I really want to hear what this head unit sounds like. When the trunk is done I can get the subs in and that would most definitely motivate me more.
As for the cracked door panels. I tried one with steel mesh and it worked but was a bit messy. The other one I used steel wool. Both are holding up. I think the mesh would probably be stronger.
Thanks @wannafbody on the door panel suggestions. I really must resist the door panel work until I get the rest of the interior back together. There are other things I need to tackle with the doors (passenger window motor is super slow and overheats easy so I need to replace that, replace the weather stripping, put the door lock/unlock levers in as both are missing, and the unknown stuff I am going to find.) I have a plastic welder I really need to do some practice with before I attempt the door panel fix. One of my buckets broke last month so I can use this to see how well I can weld plastic, lol. I might try some fiberglass cloth and resin on the door panels even if the welding goes well to help re-enforce the weaker parts of the panel. This and the zip tie mod for the weather stripping. I know adding the upgraded speakers will require some modification as the tweeter won't be a full drop in. The active cross over will need to go in there too. So many things to do...
04-26-2021, 10:02 AM
