99 z28 - ASR Stuck On
03-28-2021, 02:36 AM
#1
99 z28 - ASR Stuck On My ASR will not deactivate even when I push the button.
I recently installed LED flashers which have a separate ground wire from the flashers themselves because I went all four corners with LED's. I tried regular electronic LED flashers but there is just not enough load to make them flash. I am concerned however that this ground in the flasher circuit may be giving my ASR switch a second path to ground thus keeping the system always on. Any thoughts? If this is the case, do you think I can resolve by installing a diode on the positive cable just before the switch?
I recently installed LED flashers which have a separate ground wire from the flashers themselves because I went all four corners with LED's. I tried regular electronic LED flashers but there is just not enough load to make them flash. I am concerned however that this ground in the flasher circuit may be giving my ASR switch a second path to ground thus keeping the system always on. Any thoughts? If this is the case, do you think I can resolve by installing a diode on the positive cable just before the switch?
03-28-2021, 11:24 AM
#2
This sounds like a coincidence to me. No matter how many other devices (flashers, stereo, mood lighting, or whatever) you ground, it would have no effect on other circuits. The exception would be if you mistakenly connected your ground to a non-ground wire like the brown/white trigger wire of the ASR switch or the purple/white ON signal wire of the switch which would make the LED illuminate all the time whether the system was on or not. But we know you wouldn't do something foollish like that so the problem must be elsewhere.
03-28-2021, 02:35 PM
#3
This sounds like a coincidence to me. No matter how many other devices (flashers, stereo, mood lighting, or whatever) you ground, it would have no effect on other circuits. The exception would be if you mistakenly connected your ground to a non-ground wire like the brown/white trigger wire of the ASR switch or the purple/white ON signal wire of the switch which would make the LED illuminate all the time whether the system was on or not. But we know you wouldn't do something foollish like that so the problem must be elsewhere.
I want to test the switch. Which prongs would I need to tap into to perform a continuity test?
Edit: I read up and found it seems to be the brown/white (positive) and black/white (negative) and the switch connects them which sends a pulse which activates / deactivates the ASR per pulse.
So I ran a continuity switch on the prongs for the black/white & brown/white wires with the switch fully depressed and received continuity.
I then ran a voltage test on the socket for the black/white & brown/white wires and received 13.5 volts ... Odd ...
it seems like both ends are working.
My gauge cluster is out of the car so I can’t tell if ASR is on or not but when I get it back in, is there anything else that could be off?
Edit 2: Another thing I noticed is the ASR switch didn’t want to light up when I turned to headlights on. Nor does the orange bar illuminate to tell me if the ASR is on or off.
Last edited by Need4Camaro; 03-28-2021 at 03:05 PM.
03-28-2021, 03:14 PM
#4
Actually, the ASR switch is a grounding switch which merely directs the 12V output from the Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) to a chassis ground. The brown/white wire carries the 12V signal and the black/white goes to ground. When the switch is pressed, the signal on the brown/white wire is sent to ground via the black/white wire. With the switch at rest, the two are not connected. So your continuity test is correct.
The voltage test is not correct unless you mean that you tested voltage across the two terminals (which would be expected - 12V passing from the brown/white wire to the black/white wire to ground). Testing the socket terminals individually with the switch disconnected, you should have 12V positive (actually, system voltage - so 13.5 is normal) on the brown/white wire and ground on the black/white wire. You can check for continuity between the black/white wire and any chassis ground to confirm a good ground. But if you're getting 12V across the two terminals then you know it's working correctly.
The voltage test is not correct unless you mean that you tested voltage across the two terminals (which would be expected - 12V passing from the brown/white wire to the black/white wire to ground). Testing the socket terminals individually with the switch disconnected, you should have 12V positive (actually, system voltage - so 13.5 is normal) on the brown/white wire and ground on the black/white wire. You can check for continuity between the black/white wire and any chassis ground to confirm a good ground. But if you're getting 12V across the two terminals then you know it's working correctly.
03-28-2021, 03:37 PM
#5
Actually, the ASR switch is a grounding switch which merely directs the 12V output from the Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) to a chassis ground. The brown/white wire carries the 12V signal and the black/white goes to ground. When the switch is pressed, the signal on the brown/white wire is sent to ground via the black/white wire. With the switch at rest, the two are not connected. So your continuity test is correct.
The voltage test is not correct unless you mean that you tested voltage across the two terminals (which would be expected - 12V passing from the brown/white wire to the black/white wire to ground). Testing the socket terminals individually with the switch disconnected, you should have 12V positive (actually, system voltage - so 13.5 is normal) on the brown/white wire and ground on the black/white wire. You can check for continuity between the black/white wire and any chassis ground to confirm a good ground. But if you're getting 12V across the two terminals then you know it's working correctly.
The voltage test is not correct unless you mean that you tested voltage across the two terminals (which would be expected - 12V passing from the brown/white wire to the black/white wire to ground). Testing the socket terminals individually with the switch disconnected, you should have 12V positive (actually, system voltage - so 13.5 is normal) on the brown/white wire and ground on the black/white wire. You can check for continuity between the black/white wire and any chassis ground to confirm a good ground. But if you're getting 12V across the two terminals then you know it's working correctly.
I had to really wiggle it a bit to get the light to come on when the headlights come on. For the Illuminator however, the small orange bar on the switch, it always is off ... is that normal?
03-29-2021, 10:50 AM
#6
The results you got in your voltage test are quite correct showing that you have a power signal from the EBCM brown/white wire and a good ground on the black/white wire.
The LED inside the switch is powered when the ignition is on via the GAUGES fuse through the pink wire to pin B of the switch. When ASR is turned off, the EBCM provides ground for the LED through the purple/white wire on pin A of the switch. You can manually test the indicator light by applying power to B and ground to A. If it doesn't illuminate then you need a new switch (or if you're good with soldering, you might be able to take it apart and replace the LED).
The LED inside the switch is powered when the ignition is on via the GAUGES fuse through the pink wire to pin B of the switch. When ASR is turned off, the EBCM provides ground for the LED through the purple/white wire on pin A of the switch. You can manually test the indicator light by applying power to B and ground to A. If it doesn't illuminate then you need a new switch (or if you're good with soldering, you might be able to take it apart and replace the LED).