Hatch release in op
#1
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Hatch release in op
01 firebird v6 to v8 with stand alone harness swap
Hatch was working previously but after its sat for a while the hatch release is inop from both interior button and keyfob. pwr accessory fuse in side is good. Swapped the two relays around to see if that resolved it and no go.
I seem to remember having this issue when I first did the swap and the problem being tied to the fuel pump hotwire kit, but when I stare at it ( i have the access hatch) I dont see anything that stands out.
any advice or trouble shooting tips welcome!
Hatch was working previously but after its sat for a while the hatch release is inop from both interior button and keyfob. pwr accessory fuse in side is good. Swapped the two relays around to see if that resolved it and no go.
I seem to remember having this issue when I first did the swap and the problem being tied to the fuel pump hotwire kit, but when I stare at it ( i have the access hatch) I dont see anything that stands out.
any advice or trouble shooting tips welcome!
#2
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A couple of things you can check...
- The PWR ACCY fuse is the one which powers the actual hatch release motor but the COURTESY fuse is the one which powers the coil side of the release relay so you should check that as well.
- In a manual transmission vehicle, the BCM won't trigger the hatch release unless the parking brake is engaged. If you have unplugged the blue connector at the DRL module, as some people do to disable daytime running lights, or if the grounding switch on the parking brake lever isn't closing the circuit, then your hatch release won't function. This doesn't apply to automatics because they use the neutral safety switch to control activation... I would guess that isn't the problem because you'd also have difficulty starting the car.
- Remove the relay and use a short piece of wire to momentarily jump the orange wire to the black/white wire - the hatch should release. If it doesn't, use a test light or multimeter to check for power on the orange wire (it should be hot at all times). No power, recheck the PWR ACCY fuse and/or start looking for a break in the wire someplace. If you do have power then the problem is either the hatch release motor or the wiring to it.
- Still at the empty relay socket, check for power on the brown wire when the release button is pressed (doesn't matter if you use the dash button or remote). No power, check why the BCM isn't triggering the relay... could be the COURTESY fuse, a break in the wire somewhere, or even possible a defective BCM (very unlikely but possible).
- Check for ground on the tan/white wire at the relay socket. If no ground then check the neutral safety switch (automatic) or parking brake switch (manual). Also, in a manual transmission, it could be the DRL module although that would be unlikely.
#3
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Thanks @WhiteBird00
CHecked the courtesy fuse and it was good (lights actually went out when I pulled it) . This was previously an auto v6 car so I forgot about the parking break as it was released cause I was working on some drl lights. Not so lucky though doesn't seem to be it. I'll double check it to make sure it's catching, but I assume if DRLS are off with the brake pulled up hatch should also work.
I'll dig into the others since the under dash panel where the relays are is already off. One other piece of info not sure if it's related I had to swap steering columns which led to me having to put the resistor in for vats. Car starts and runs currently just have to use the key to open my trunk
CHecked the courtesy fuse and it was good (lights actually went out when I pulled it) . This was previously an auto v6 car so I forgot about the parking break as it was released cause I was working on some drl lights. Not so lucky though doesn't seem to be it. I'll double check it to make sure it's catching, but I assume if DRLS are off with the brake pulled up hatch should also work.
I'll dig into the others since the under dash panel where the relays are is already off. One other piece of info not sure if it's related I had to swap steering columns which led to me having to put the resistor in for vats. Car starts and runs currently just have to use the key to open my trunk
#4
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@WhiteBird00
finally got to dig into that test list you suggested jumper wire activates the solenoid at trunk. hatch release OK
finally got to dig into that test list you suggested jumper wire activates the solenoid at trunk. hatch release OK
- brown wire shows voltage fluctuation when pressing hatch release button dash switch Dash switch and BCM function OK
- tan wire shows no ground though. Ground connection lost
Last edited by blackbyrd; 09-08-2021 at 07:28 PM.
#5
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Thread Starter
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NVM found it! Dug up an old thread on auto to manual swap and the important wires had become disconnected (neutral safety switch)
Now I just gotta figure out my fuel gauge.
Now I just gotta figure out my fuel gauge.