Hatch release in op
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,641
Likes: 392
From: cookeville, TN
Hatch release in op 01 firebird v6 to v8 with stand alone harness swap
Hatch was working previously but after its sat for a while the hatch release is inop from both interior button and keyfob. pwr accessory fuse in side is good. Swapped the two relays around to see if that resolved it and no go.
I seem to remember having this issue when I first did the swap and the problem being tied to the fuel pump hotwire kit, but when I stare at it ( i have the access hatch) I dont see anything that stands out.
any advice or trouble shooting tips welcome!
Hatch was working previously but after its sat for a while the hatch release is inop from both interior button and keyfob. pwr accessory fuse in side is good. Swapped the two relays around to see if that resolved it and no go.
I seem to remember having this issue when I first did the swap and the problem being tied to the fuel pump hotwire kit, but when I stare at it ( i have the access hatch) I dont see anything that stands out.
any advice or trouble shooting tips welcome!
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
A couple of things you can check...
- The PWR ACCY fuse is the one which powers the actual hatch release motor but the COURTESY fuse is the one which powers the coil side of the release relay so you should check that as well.
- In a manual transmission vehicle, the BCM won't trigger the hatch release unless the parking brake is engaged. If you have unplugged the blue connector at the DRL module, as some people do to disable daytime running lights, or if the grounding switch on the parking brake lever isn't closing the circuit, then your hatch release won't function. This doesn't apply to automatics because they use the neutral safety switch to control activation... I would guess that isn't the problem because you'd also have difficulty starting the car.
- Remove the relay and use a short piece of wire to momentarily jump the orange wire to the black/white wire - the hatch should release. If it doesn't, use a test light or multimeter to check for power on the orange wire (it should be hot at all times). No power, recheck the PWR ACCY fuse and/or start looking for a break in the wire someplace. If you do have power then the problem is either the hatch release motor or the wiring to it.
- Still at the empty relay socket, check for power on the brown wire when the release button is pressed (doesn't matter if you use the dash button or remote). No power, check why the BCM isn't triggering the relay... could be the COURTESY fuse, a break in the wire somewhere, or even possible a defective BCM (very unlikely but possible).
- Check for ground on the tan/white wire at the relay socket. If no ground then check the neutral safety switch (automatic) or parking brake switch (manual). Also, in a manual transmission, it could be the DRL module although that would be unlikely.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,641
Likes: 392
From: cookeville, TN
Thanks @WhiteBird00
CHecked the courtesy fuse and it was good (lights actually went out when I pulled it) . This was previously an auto v6 car so I forgot about the parking break as it was released cause I was working on some drl lights. Not so lucky though doesn't seem to be it. I'll double check it to make sure it's catching, but I assume if DRLS are off with the brake pulled up hatch should also work.
I'll dig into the others since the under dash panel where the relays are is already off. One other piece of info not sure if it's related I had to swap steering columns which led to me having to put the resistor in for vats. Car starts and runs currently just have to use the key to open my trunk
CHecked the courtesy fuse and it was good (lights actually went out when I pulled it) . This was previously an auto v6 car so I forgot about the parking break as it was released cause I was working on some drl lights. Not so lucky though doesn't seem to be it. I'll double check it to make sure it's catching, but I assume if DRLS are off with the brake pulled up hatch should also work.
I'll dig into the others since the under dash panel where the relays are is already off. One other piece of info not sure if it's related I had to swap steering columns which led to me having to put the resistor in for vats. Car starts and runs currently just have to use the key to open my trunk
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,641
Likes: 392
From: cookeville, TN
@WhiteBird00
finally got to dig into that test list you suggested jumper wire activates the solenoid at trunk. hatch release OK
finally got to dig into that test list you suggested jumper wire activates the solenoid at trunk. hatch release OK
- brown wire shows voltage fluctuation when pressing hatch release button dash switch Dash switch and BCM function OK
- tan wire shows no ground though. Ground connection lost
Last edited by blackbyrd; Sep 8, 2021 at 07:28 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,641
Likes: 392
From: cookeville, TN
NVM found it! Dug up an old thread on auto to manual swap and the important wires had become disconnected (neutral safety switch)
Now I just gotta figure out my fuel gauge.
Now I just gotta figure out my fuel gauge.
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Teching In
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Having same problem A couple of things you can check...
- The PWR ACCY fuse is the one which powers the actual hatch release motor but the COURTESY fuse is the one which powers the coil side of the release relay so you should check that as well.
- In a manual transmission vehicle, the BCM won't trigger the hatch release unless the parking brake is engaged. If you have unplugged the blue connector at the DRL module, as some people do to disable daytime running lights, or if the grounding switch on the parking brake lever isn't closing the circuit, then your hatch release won't function. This doesn't apply to automatics because they use the neutral safety switch to control activation... I would guess that isn't the problem because you'd also have difficulty starting the car.
- Remove the relay and use a short piece of wire to momentarily jump the orange wire to the black/white wire - the hatch should release. If it doesn't, use a test light or multimeter to check for power on the orange wire (it should be hot at all times). No power, recheck the PWR ACCY fuse and/or start looking for a break in the wire someplace. If you do have power then the problem is either the hatch release motor or the wiring to it.
- Still at the empty relay socket, check for power on the brown wire when the release button is pressed (doesn't matter if you use the dash button or remote). No power, check why the BCM isn't triggering the relay... could be the COURTESY fuse, a break in the wire somewhere, or even possible a defective BCM (very unlikely but possible).
- Check for ground on the tan/white wire at the relay socket. If no ground then check the neutral safety switch (automatic) or parking brake switch (manual). Also, in a manual transmission, it could be the DRL module although that would be unlikely.
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Verdad Gallardo Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
I went through the steps you have listed and I’m at a loss. Relay gets power, tried jumping the orange and black/white wire and nothing. Other wire gets power when I push hatch release button. Everything you listed that’s supposed to get power works, just no release. Checked continuity for the black/white wire that runs all the way to the back and nothing. Even bought another release mechanism and nothing.
If you have the required power across those wires then it's safe to assume that the release itself is the problem although you can always check by applying power and ground directly to the release mechanism using a different source. A "Power Probe" tester is best for this but they are expensive so don't buy one unless you plan to do a lot more electrical work. Other options are one of those small rechargeable jump starter boxes (not a bad thing to keep in an emergency kit) or a 12v battery.
If you don't get power flowing across the connector, try again with a different ground. That will tell you if you're getting the necessary power but just have a bad ground (which is easy to fix).
Now if you don't have any luck with those tests, we'll have to go back and determine why you're not getting power to the connector. Let us know your results and we can continue from there.
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Let's start with the very basics... unplug the connector at the hatch release and check that you get a completed circuit across the black/white (power) wire and the black (ground) wire. This is easiest with a simple test light (I always keep one in my toolbox no matter how "old fashioned" people think it is), but you can use a multimeter to check for battery voltage across those wires when the release button is pressed.
If you have the required power across those wires then it's safe to assume that the release itself is the problem although you can always check by applying power and ground directly to the release mechanism using a different source. A "Power Probe" tester is best for this but they are expensive so don't buy one unless you plan to do a lot more electrical work. Other options are one of those small rechargeable jump starter boxes (not a bad thing to keep in an emergency kit) or a 12v battery.
If you don't get power flowing across the connector, try again with a different ground. That will tell you if you're getting the necessary power but just have a bad ground (which is easy to fix).
Now if you don't have any luck with those tests, we'll have to go back and determine why you're not getting power to the connector. Let us know your results and we can continue from there.
If you have the required power across those wires then it's safe to assume that the release itself is the problem although you can always check by applying power and ground directly to the release mechanism using a different source. A "Power Probe" tester is best for this but they are expensive so don't buy one unless you plan to do a lot more electrical work. Other options are one of those small rechargeable jump starter boxes (not a bad thing to keep in an emergency kit) or a 12v battery.
If you don't get power flowing across the connector, try again with a different ground. That will tell you if you're getting the necessary power but just have a bad ground (which is easy to fix).
Now if you don't have any luck with those tests, we'll have to go back and determine why you're not getting power to the connector. Let us know your results and we can continue from there.
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 120
Likes: 22
From: Virginia
Why OEM put the brake light in the fin was beyond me. What a total design failure. Why didn't they keep it in the ceiling of the V6 models? Those versions had interior light, and 3rd brake light. The light in the fin is a fail.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
I think you may have posted in the wrong thread... the third brake light is completely unrelated to the hatch release.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
I tried that and I don’t get any power when hitting the button. Even undid the factory union for the grounds and put them on their own bolts with new connectors and still nothing. Seems like that wire that runs to the back isn’t grounding. Like I said in the other post. The power wire has continuity from the relay to the connector so that wire is fine. Took the release mechanism off and put power to it and it works
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 120
Likes: 22
From: Virginia
My mistake. Was looking at photos of the 1998 Base model, and the tail light is in the fin, but below not on the top side like the Trans Am. Just wanted to correct that statement.