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Ok I know this is over posted thread but I'm at a loss here iv been cleaning grounds an checking wires an sockets I changed my flasher for signals no matter what iv tired their still acting crazy left indicator in cluster is on when lights are on an if hit blinker to the left side it flashes side markers an all the blinker lights an cluster lights flash to as in all lighting in cluster it's like hazards are on when their not any one had anything close to this kind of issues all help greatly appreciated
First thing I would suggest is getting a keyboard that has punctuation keys on it and then using them.
So let me see if I understand the problem...
- when you turn on your lights, the left turn indicator in the dash also lights up?
- if you then turn on your left turn signal, all of the running lights flash (side markers, tail lights, dash illumination)?
Does it only happen with the left signal or does the right signal do the same thing?
Have you done any modifications or repairs (replaced sockets, installed LED bulbs, etc.)?
Did anything unusual happen just before this problem started (fuse blew, ran through deep puddle, etc.)?
Do you have any electrical diagnostic tools like a multi-meter or at least a test light?
It sounds like you have a short between your turn signal circuit and your parking/running light circuit, but we'll need more information in order to determine where to start looking.
Sorry working off a phone I'll try my best punctuation.
Yes with lights on left indicator is light up an yes blinks all lights an cluster illumination.
It's only the left signal light that flashing all the lights.
No aftermarket bulbs iv replaced the left front bulb an socket an the very out side small rear tail light bulb. This issue just appeared out of the blue I noticed bulb was out one day.
Investigation lead to burnt connecter on passanger front that's all the bad wiring iv been able to find was passanger front connector was toasted.
Last edited by DarkPhoenixws6; 04-26-2022 at 09:50 AM.
There are two possibilities that immediately come to mind...
The first is that you've got the three wires of the new front socket connected incorrectly. The factory colors are black for ground, brown for parking lights, and blue for turn signals and DRLs. Unfortunately, aftermarket replacement sockets don't come with matching colors and sometimes even do stupid things like using black for something other than ground. If the socket didn't come with a connection diagram or a wire color listing then I would remove it and bench test connections until you get the correct combination then reinstall.
The other possibility is that you may have installed an incorrect bulb. Installing a 3156 bulb or a 3157CK bulb (used mostly by Toyota) in place of a standard 3157 bulb will cause similar cross circuit connections. This is less likely than the socket wiring but it is possible.
The nice thing is that both situations are fairly easy to correct without costing a lot of time or money.
The socket came with no instructions I just matched it to way the old connector was wired.
And I can't remember off top my head Wich bulbs I got but I have noticed wiring to connector gets hot after some time or driving or running the lights.
Wich brand of socket would you recommend for better chance working correctly.
The socket I have O'Rileys cheap one all the wires on socket were black.
There's nothing wrong with those sockets, it's just that the connections are wrong. If you don't have the tools to determine which wire goes where in a bench test then you can make an assumption and try a simple change to see if it works. Most 3157 sockets have the center of the three leads for powering the dim filament (the parking light) with the two outer wires being ground and power for the bright filament (turn signals and DRLs). If you already have the brown wire going to the center wire then just reverse the other two and see if that works. If you don't have the brown wire going to the center lead then do that first - that leaves you with only two possibilities for the other two... try one way and if that doesn't work then reverse them.
I just looked back at the socket I baught it's not even a blinker socket.
I Trusted the guy at counter I'm going to pick up the right socket from Napa that's listed an wire coded to match the car.
It's more expensive but I'd rather have the right socket out the gate.
I'll try this if still same issue happens I'll keep you updated thanks for all the information.
Well, if the fuse blowing is new since changing the socket wiring then it's safe to assume that the socket wiring is shorting to ground causing the fuse to blow. Disconnect the new socket and check that the fuse blowing stops.
First, confirm that it is a 3157 socket with three wires - a 3156 signal socket with two wires will cause exactly the symptoms you describe. Then, if you have a multimeter, I can show you how to test which wire is which in the socket. If you don't have a meter or are unfamiliar with testing continuity then buy yourself a different 3157 socket that doesn't have three black wires - each wire should be a different color - and that labels the wires or has a diagram on the package.
If you have a meter, you can check your socket like this...
Notice how the contacts on the right side are connected top and bottom? That's the ground circuit. On the right side, the bottom contact is the dim filament for the parking lights and the top contact is the bright filament for the turn signals and DRLs. Now you could test every contact to match the continuity with each wire until you labeled all three but you really only have to match the ground. Check which of the three wires has continuity to the connected ground contacts on the right side in the image. It will be one of the outer wires. Mark it as ground. The middle wire will be the parking light power (brown wire in factory harness) and the remaining outer wire will be turn signals and DRL (factory blue wire).
Last edited by WhiteBird00; 04-28-2022 at 07:01 AM.
I did get the new socket from Napa it has different color wires.
I tried swap waring in the old/new connector I'd previously installed like you suggested an I swapped the two wires my brown wire is running to center of connector.
Now that swapped the outside 2 I'm have tail lights blow fuse an the only drl working are front drl/blinkers.
I'm begining to believe my cheap socket is to blame I'm take brake from it I'll go out later an put the new higher quality socket in try again
Ok got the better socket from Napa on from what can tell the other one had melted an two of the pins were touching in bottom of connector.
Now blinkers work as they should an no blown fuses drl work on front but what all is supposed to be lite with drl?
Because I have no markers lite up or taillights.
DRLs are Daytime Running Lights which are intended to provide visibility of the front of your car to other drivers. They light the bright filament of the two front amber lamps which serve dual duty as DRL and turn signal. They come on when the ignition is on, the lights are off, and the parking brake is disengaged. None of the other lights on the vehicle are on for DRL usage so what you describe is normal.
When the headlight switch is in the P position (parking lights), the front lights will still be bright and the tail lights and side markers will be on. When the headlight switch is in the ON position, the headlights will open and turn on, the front lights will switch to the dim running light mode, and the tail lights and side markers will be on.
Thanks for all your help I found that the old socket an my wrong wiring was issues now that confirmed my suspension.
The drl had being only front my parking light had melted the socket an jumped to the drl prong in the socket I had all lights on from start.
I guess once fixed wiring was to much for the tail light fuse blew them new socket on everything back to normal thanks again for all advice an info.
04-25-2022, 10:35 PM
Blinker issues 
