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ah. ok. Since the back of the alternator is directly connected to the + of the battery, the wire will have power.
Yup! I had to redo my set up at least twice because I wasn't thinking how I was running some of the wires and power studs, I'd go test it at the end and realize what I did and have to make a few new cables.
I never noticed that LS1Tech had an Electrical/ Wiring Sub-Forum...
I am always in the Automatic Transmission Sub-Forum.
Power and Ground Circuits need to be segregated (Clean and Dirty Power)... and need to have direct connections to the battery.
I will follow up another Post regarding a Positive Disconnect Switch (4-Post Design for use with an Alternator)...
and with Battery Terminals for Multiple Cables to be attached.
Below are 2 Diagrams of properly segregated Clean and Dirty Power Circuits:
Ground and Power to Dirty High Amperage Circuits need to be separate from Clean Connections to Electronics (PCM, Modules, Etc).
All Connections must original directly at the Battery.
I have been exclusively using XS Power Batteries for a long time now:
The Posts are always threaded for Adapters or Top-Mount Posts.
I often use these 3-Way Adapters:
These provide 2 Top Post Locations and 1 Side Post Location (6 Total).
Otherwise with conventional Batteries...
Anywhere from 2 to 10 Cables can be used (per Post) with a Top Post Battery:
And Side Post Batteries can have up to 4 Cables attached per Post (2 Cables in each Terminal):
Two Terminals on the Post, will allow for 4 Cables.
I'm going to be using an XS Power D7500 battery. I made a carboard box of the same measurements, and it will fit. I was thinking of using these XS power adapters:
I have done testing with a few dozen different Brands of Battery Cable and Welding Cable.
I would like to do some testing on that GP Car Audio Brand Battery Cable.
That might just be the best "Car Audio" marketed Battery Cable that I have come across.
I wonder if it will spec-out and perform close the the ProWireUSA Battery Cable that I normally use.
Thanks for the recommendation.
Can you Post your plan for the Ground Connections?
Then I'll go over everything.
Shortest possible path to the frame. 2/0 from the battery to the - distribution block, 2/0 from the - distribution block to the closest frame connection, 2/0 from the engine block to the closest frame connection. 1/0 from all amps to the - distribution block. 4AWG - distribution block for gauges/stereo/sensors. I will have a new, custom, wire harness for the ECM too, so all of those power/ground cables will be new.
You need a direct connection (Negative Cable, Zero Gauge or so) from the Battery to the Cylinder Block.
This Cable CAN NOT touch the Chassis or any Chassis Grounds.
ONLY from the Battery to the Cylinder Block.
Grounding/ Ground Connections are the MOST IMPORTANT part of a DC Electrical System.
All the Electricity comes from Ground.
Electricity (as in Electrons) flows from Negative to Positive...
Just as all Negatively charged Particles are attracted to Positively charged particles.
AC Power is a totally different story.
You will also notice in my diagram that the Alternator Body has a Negative Cable that goes directly to the Battery.
You need a direct connection (Negative Cable, Zero Gauge or so) from the Battery to the Cylinder Block.
This Cable CAN NOT touch the Chassis or any Chassis Grounds.
ONLY from the Battery to the Cylinder Block.
Grounding/ Ground Connections are the MOST IMPORTANT part of a DC Electrical System.
All the Electricity comes from Ground.
Electricity (as in Electrons) flows from Negative to Positive...
Just as all Negatively charged Particles are attracted to Positively charged particles.
AC Power is a totally different story.
You will also notice in my diagram that the Alternator Body has a Negative Cable that goes directly to the Battery.
I forgot that the battery distribution blocks are directly connected to the battery. Added the additional block and alt grounds too. Does the block still need a ground to chassis, if it has a ground to the battery?
I buy copper bus bars at a commercial/industrial electrical supplier, as well as the connection sealer and connectors for any "0" gauge wire.
Strand count makes a huge difference.. More strands less resistance.. (In simple-ish terms... )
It also helps the wires ability to tolerate high temperatures. Often the cheap 115V welders have low strand count stinger leads,
I've swapped them out for high strand wire and suddenly its a decent little welder.. (For light stuff...)
Never run a power cable touching a fuel or oil line. Ideally they should be on opposite sides of the car. (IMHO)
The Positive Power Cable Diagram should essentially be like the design below.
The Positioning of the Wiring does not matter... just the design of the Connections:
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