How much louder is a mid by itself vs in a component set?
How much louder is a mid by itself vs in a component set? I am trying to figure out how many watts I want. I currently have 100W RMS on a 6.75" component set. How much louder would the mid be by itself on the same 100W and bandpass crossover at the same frequencies?
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,331
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Volume is not a linear scale. For example, a 10% increase in power (or in speaker sensitivity) does not produce a 10% increase in volume. Volume scales logarithmically... it takes ten times the power to double the volume - you'd have to go from 100W to 1,000W to make the sound twice as loud.
So the answer to your question is that there would be no noticeable difference in volume between running a component set (mid and tweeter) and just the mid alone. Depending on the impedance of the speaker components, eliminating the tweeter might result in in cutting the total impedance at the amp by half (if your amp is stable at that impedance). That equates to a 3dB increase in output which is the equivalent of about one click of the volume control on most head units. There are other factors such as the sensitivity (efficiency) of the components, but 3dB is pretty much a best case scenario. Keep in mind that tweeters, by design, don't take as much power as mids or especially subs, so eliminating a tweeter will affect sound quality (treble reproduction) far more than volume.
So the answer to your question is that there would be no noticeable difference in volume between running a component set (mid and tweeter) and just the mid alone. Depending on the impedance of the speaker components, eliminating the tweeter might result in in cutting the total impedance at the amp by half (if your amp is stable at that impedance). That equates to a 3dB increase in output which is the equivalent of about one click of the volume control on most head units. There are other factors such as the sensitivity (efficiency) of the components, but 3dB is pretty much a best case scenario. Keep in mind that tweeters, by design, don't take as much power as mids or especially subs, so eliminating a tweeter will affect sound quality (treble reproduction) far more than volume.
I think I am going to go with 150W to the 6.75 and 5.25 woofers in the doors and hatch, 60W to tweeters in the doors and hatch, 200W to 6.5 subs in the sails, and 500W to a 12 in the back.
All will be CDT speakers and Rockford Fosgate (maybe CDT/US Acoustics) amps. Audio Control 10 channel DSP.
All will be CDT speakers and Rockford Fosgate (maybe CDT/US Acoustics) amps. Audio Control 10 channel DSP.
Last edited by FCar2000TA; Mar 14, 2024 at 08:22 PM.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,331
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Audiophiles will tell you to cut back on the power going to the hatch area so that the sound stage is in front of you and the hatch speakers are merely rear fill. But that is a matter of personal preference. Many people enjoy the "surround sound" experience, so having lots of sound all around can be great fun to listen to - even if it's not "realistic". Your choice... I just mention it as a consideration for your build.
Audiophiles will tell you to cut back on the power going to the hatch area so that the sound stage is in front of you and the hatch speakers are merely rear fill. But that is a matter of personal preference. Many people enjoy the "surround sound" experience, so having lots of sound all around can be great fun to listen to - even if it's not "realistic". Your choice... I just mention it as a consideration for your build.
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,331
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
I'm old enough to remember when a pair of 6x9 speakers on (or in) the rear window shelf was the height of stereo technology (that was when 8-tracks and later cassette tapes were king). I sure don't miss the "rear sound stage". 
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