BoricuaHec01

Just got back from autozone and got my battery tested, it's completely drained and can die any day now, getting a new one tomorrow. So this may be the reason for my security light, well I hope it is. My old camaro never had the security light come on when my battery was dying, strange. But we'll see officially tomorrow.

LE35thSS

iTrader: (1)

i just had this problem fixed. i ended up having to replace the ignition switch.

BoricuaHec01

Is the security light for numerous different issues or a specific thing, like the ignition switch?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

The security light is for the VATS system only. If the light stays on solid, the BCM recognizes that there is a key in the ignition but it doesn't match the resistance value in its memory. If that happens when trying to start the car, the starter and fuel pump will be disabled to prevent theft. If it happens once the car is running, it assumes there's a system fault and it will allow the car to start again even though the security light is on. If the light is flashing, the system can't detect a resistor pellet key in the ignition and the car won't start.

No single component is responsible for the security light - any one of a number of problems could cause the BCM to be unable to read the key properly.

ls198ss

How do you clean the chip?? The security light flashes and it won't crank.

ls198ss

Hey, im having this problem. My security light is flashing and the car wont even attempt to crank. I read these posts but nothing is clear to me. I dont know much about it. I cleaned the black chip on the key and still nothing. I dont know in what direction I need to go in. could you possibly give me some advice??

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

You have a break somewhere in the connections between the ignition cylinder and the BCM. The VATS in the BCM is unable to detect the key resistor pellet. The problem could be anywhere in the wiring from the steering column to the BCM but the most likely culprit is the ignition cylinder. It is not unusual for the small wires that connect to the key contacts inside the ignition cylinder to break.

You can test with a multimeter at the bottom off the steering column. Unplug the VATS connector, insert your key in the ignition and test the resistance between the two wires that go up the column. It should be within 10% of the reading on the key itself. I suspect you'll get an infinite resistance reading (i.e. an open circuit). If that's the case, your options are to replace the ignition cylinder or bypass VATS.

ryangtp89

iTrader: (2)

I'm having the same issue, did the wrong way of diagnosing and replaced the starter, neutral saftey switch, replaced the ignition relay and tryed putting the new relay on the starter relay soo it wasnt those two. Soo it's probably the chip in my key thats dirty or ignition switch, and i'm sure that not easy replacing. Now i have a mulitmeter but what setting do i have it on ? OHMS ? and where do i put the pos and neg leeds ? i'm alittle rusty with electrical. maybe i have to do the vats bypass idk.