gollum

iTrader: (1)

Kids,
This new digital technology is just the beginning of smaller size amps. Digital does not need all that heavy mumbo jumbo that the older anolog technolgy requires.The biggest advantage of the new PANASONICS or any of the future digitaly powered head units is the more superior and accurate sound quality they will deliver. The 35 watts RMS and 70 watts peak power is "way more" than enough power for sane everyday listening levels. But if you like show off loud SPL bass, the amp also has a Subwoofer Output for adding a higher powered seperate bass amp (smaller and lighter digital of course).

The future looks bright!

Richiec77

iTrader: (3)

Damn good advice. Most people (yes I use to over look it too) over look this important part also.

If you are planning a large install later on, think about running a large guage wire from the - term on the battery to the amp's central ground.


It is a real amplifier non the less. It may not be the best amp available, but it is a hugh step in the right direction. How many Transistors are in a PC Chip??
Billions?, Trillion?

You can usually fit about 9 on a stamp. But 1 Transistor is better than Many. (larger capicity for current and the single chip can usaully "slew" (switch) faster than Staged Transistors.)

Size doesn't dictate the total product of the device. Because of it's efficency it can dicipate it's heat quickly. Also the smaller size says "better" slew. This is much better for dynamics. These are a few +'s.

A few -'s is that the smaller size leaves less chance for disapating heat (#1 killer of electronics). Also it cannot Physically handle alot of current. This limits it ability to produce high Output on more demanding Freq's. The larger the sine wave(lower freq.) the more ON State the IC is in. So it won't be able to produce Lower Freq's as good as a large amp.

BUT, these chips are designed with the Majority in mind. Most people will run a deck like this to a set of Coaxials or stock Speakers and be fine with it.

Richiec77

iTrader: (3)

More FYI but

Agree mostly, But D class doesn't mean Digital. Also Like I said above, These are meant for The rest of the Sound range rather than the Bass region. Right now, these chips inside a Radio don't have the support to drive a sub.

But, If used in a 2 way configuration with the Deck running Components or Coaxial's and a Sub driven off a seperate Amp, it sould sound pretty nice for a Good Budget system. Prices are higher now for the Technology, but It will come down in price.

Wait. My friend is picking up 4 older Blaupunkt, PA2150's. They were an awesome Amp for the money when they came out. They stayed way cool (thermally) and could drive a pair of 10'-15's nicely. We sold a crap load out of the store I worked at in up state New York. So the technolgy works for subs and larger loads. This newer version will more than likely pick up the pace.

2MuchRiceMakesMeSick

My point is...as single transistor (no matter how many inside) can only take so much heat before its breaks. As you know it takes alot more circuitry then a single transistor to amplify a low level input. Good idea for the masses....maybe but I just dont feel the technology is there quite yet.

badhoopty

anybody say to ALWAYS unhook the battery before doing any wiring?

also, always try to solder and shrinkwrap connections when wiring. if you cant, then get quality butt connectors (i use the kinds that shrink when heated) and take your time crimping, and always give them a tug after you are done to make sure the wire is crimped tightly in the connector. and from my experiences NEVER use scotch lock type connectors.

and always think twice before you cut a hole to make something fit...

gollum

iTrader: (1)

With the digital powered 4 channel Panasonic CQ-C9901U, CQ-C9801U, CQ-C9701U amps I could use the two front (*SRS CS Automotive) channels to drive the front two door speakers and the two rear sub (*SBC-SW) channels to drive the rear seat 6.5"subs. Removing the two back hatchback area speakers and Monsoon amp will shed some of the unnecessary weight for the drag strip.

*SRS CS Automotive- The two front speaker outputs use this 3D sound reproduction based on HRTF (Head Related Tranfer Function) theory. It compensates the signal based on the way humans determine sound directionality according to frequency changes, this lets you experience a natural sound-field anywhere in the car, unlike artficial sound-field manipulation by methods such as time delay. TrueBass and Focus are also provided to bring back the rich bass and sparkling treble tones that tend to be lost in compressed music formats like MP3 and WMA.

*SBC-SW (Super Bass Controlled Subwoofer)- The two rear channels can be used as a subwoofer exclusively for bass reproduction. Cutoff frequency as well as rear output level are adjustable so low-range charecteristics can be tailored to the music. This also contributes to front soundstage imaging stability.

VERY SIMPLE !

Richiec77

iTrader: (3)

Alright. If You want to pimp the new Panasonic Make a newer Thread, gollum. It's dragged on a little too much.



I guess I overlooked that simple stuff also. It just never occures to me anymore to take off Jewelry, and other Metalic objects if you are working around live DC or AC.

Yes. To sum it up, A connection should be both Mechanically, and Eletrically sound.

Richiec77

iTrader: (3)

Alright. I'm trying to think of some F-body specific tips. Like removing the Door panels. Good spots to tap for accessory power under the dash (radar Detectors, guages...), Good grounding points, etc....

2Much, Can you give some Y-body Tips? So far I think you are the only Vette owner chipping in.

sexyvic1

if u need tips on removing panels and headliners on 01 style tahoes i can help
and if u have a 96 style grand cherokee ( which u probably won't be in ls1tech.com ) i can help u with that too

Phoenix 5.7

iTrader: (7)

on the f-body, power for some things such a radar detectors or a relay can be taken off or the pink wire on the TCS on firebirds(dunno about camaros) and the power wire for the cig lighter.

2MuchRiceMakesMeSick

This is a big one in my book. Soldering wires is the only way to go. EVERYONE that worked for me had their own soldering iron and plenty of solder. Theres no excuse for you not to. If you dont have one, go buy one. Youll save yourself many headaches.

Rubber shrink tubing is not necissary and usually takes a long time when your paying by the hour. 3M electrical tape is the way to go. I havent had any trouble and you can keep bundles of wires looking 'factory'.


Most of the time I never disconnected the battery

gollum

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=Richiec77]Alright. If You want to pimp the new Panasonic Make a newer Thread, gollum. It's dragged on a little too much.QUOTE]

Sorry about pimping the PANASONIC brand, but after doing a lot of research the PANASONIC is the current overall winner.

Just trying to keep it affordable and VERY SIMPLE for the begginer.

HalV48

iTrader: (1)

Here's the best advise I can give you.

http://www.carsound.com/cgi-bin/UBB_CGI/ultimatebb.cgi

True Professionals and Competitors

Spenser309

uhh www.bcae1.com/ .
Dont connect the power to the ground. :sparks:
I was always told, the more power the better. cuz an 300w RMS decent amp is cleaner at 30 w than a 15w RMS semi-high end amp (do not buy **** on my head brands) and the price diff is huge.

2MuchRiceMakesMeSick

Panasonic is NOT the best. Please do not tell people this on every thread. If I had to rate panasonics quality from a 1 to 10 scale (10 being the best) I would give them a 2. You have a panasonic and you like it....great....now stop posting on every thread about how great it is.

And remember the ultimate goal in car audio is that YOUR happy with it and you have acheived that. Now drop it.

gollum

iTrader: (1)

PANASONIC is currently the best because of it's superior digital amplification. As far as build quality and ease of use of the new PANASONIC's, I do not know.

2FAST4U

Sorry but Panosonic is crap I would take kenwood,eclipse,Alpine, alpine (F1), or pioneer. But if you want best we are talking about $2700 headunits $6000 eq's $1000 speakers, $2000 amps. I have owned tuned or used all of these And Panosonic is not on the list, hell not even in the top 10.

Richiec77

iTrader: (3)

Gollum, Please stop. This isn't advice for a begineer. It's your opinion. If it was just one post it would be fine. It would show an option. NOW you are just pimping the Radio, and you DO NOT fully understand the technology of amplification well enough to declare a winner. Where is the Panasonics Voltage Regulation????? HUH????

Anyways, I know other Sites deal exclusively on the car stereo subject, but Alot of People visit this site and alot of begineers search the whole site for any info they could want. A thread of advice for those starting out will help a lot of begineers. Can also sway people to start into the hobby. I know I started out in Car audio, because I couldn't go the Hot Rodding route till I was older.


I threw maddboost a message to get his opinion. I'm waiting to hear back from him. (more than likely busy with racing season kicking off soon. And Tax purchases)
If he likes the idea, I figure I can PM you guys to help throw it together and take info from here to post-up. This thread was Jacked a bit by a Panasonic!!

I've been doing this hobby for a while and want others to benifit from OUR mistakes instead of repeating History.

Richiec77

iTrader: (3)

I think this crop of you thread is the best Advice Period so far. If I get a chance to re-write I put this up as #1. Not specific, but the midframe and idea is perfect.

super_kev

iTrader: (5)

This is part of a response to a question that was asked about what basic upgrades for a Monsoon sound system. Keep in mind that I just picked Alpine and Infinity out of the blue because they are pretty good. Nothing says you have to go with either of them, but it's what I used for this demonstration. Neither are $1000-per-speaker good, but good enough almost anyone out there.



Head Units:
HU basics
-Get a high Signal-to-Noise ratio (at least above 90). The higher the number, the better the sound.
-Find a HU with a low FM sensitivity - the lower the number (14 is average, 9 or so is excellent) the better the ability to pick up stations.

A simple high-powered HU will do from Alpine, Kenwood, Blaupunkt, etc. Try to look for one with at least 25Wx4 RMS. I like Alpine because they have the **** volume control instead of the push arrows, and I like the **** feel.

For your first speaker set, you should get some front speakers. You could go components (matched speaker and tweeter w/crossovers) or standard single speakers (buy 6.5s and tweeters seperately). With components, you'll get better sound since they are matched with tweeters and crossovers, but you'll have to mount the crossovers somewhere. Crossovers will help with sound and filter the highs to the tweeter and the mids and some lows to the main speaker. Infinity, Kenwood Excelon, Pioneer, Polk... those are all good brands. I would choose Inifinity over the rest. Since we aren't looking at systems for an audiophile we don't need CDT, Focals, MB Quarts, etc. Stay away from Sony, I don't care how cool they look.

As for rears, you could upgrade, but I'd just do the fronts first, since that's your soundstage and where most of your music should be coming from. Later on down the road you could add an amp, but I'd try the HU and components first, as that would be a good start.

Here are a few HU's to get you started:
Alpine CDA-9833 - has the V-Drive Mosfet internal amp - 26Wx4 RMS, 60Wx4 peak, 105dB Signal-to-Noise ratio, and 9.3 dBf sensitivity. It's not cheap, but if you want just a HU and don't plan on putting in an amp to drive the speakers later on, than this would be a excellent choice.

If you are planning on going with an amp for the speakers later on down the road, then the Apline CDA-9847 would be a better choice than the 9833. Same great features as the 9833, but it's rated lower @ 18Wx4 RMS, 50Wx4 peak. You'd be using preamp outs to go to the amps, so the RMS doesn't matter.

Both play MP3/WMA files, both have front/rear/sub preamps, etc. It's just that one is more made for driving speakers without an amp and still being a good HU with the options for sending signal to aux amps, while the other (9847) is made more for sending signal to the amps, since it only has 18W RMS per channel.



Speakers:
Speaker Basics: for every 3db increase in sensitivity, you get twice the sound from the same amount of power. Take these speakers for example... 92db sensitivity. Let's say we're sending them 75W. If you have a speaker that's 89db, then it would take 150W to get the same amount of sound out of the 89db sensitivity speaker. So speaker sensitivity is what you're looking for too. I like to stay above 90db if possible.

If you have 6.5s in the doors, then a good choice would be compoents like the Infinity 6000cs. If you have smaller door speakers, they have them in other sizes too.



For under $500, you can have the start of a great system. Or get the 9847 HU for even cheaper and you'll still have a good system. Music is one thing I like in my car, and I don't like to buy junk. I say that if you are going to spend the money, you might as well do it once and buy quality stuff.

A good place to buy gear is from thezeb.com and onlinecarstereo.com. I've ordered from both before and they have great prices and service. You might want to check out carmedia1 as well. And as I found out today, Crutchfield sometimes has cheaper prices than others, so it'd be best to check prices before ordering.