Pics of my new install
03-16-2005, 09:40 PM
#21
Very nice, and I thought about the Defrost vents also for a center channel, but decided against it. How do they image?
Just curious?
(Can't go wrong w/Memphis, but then again, I'm a bit partial as you may be able to tell from my webpages)
Just curious?
(Can't go wrong w/Memphis, but then again, I'm a bit partial as you may be able to tell from my webpages)
03-17-2005, 01:59 AM
#22
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Originally Posted by Firehawk526
Very nice, and I thought about the Defrost vents also for a center channel, but decided against it. How do they image?
Just curious?
(Can't go wrong w/Memphis, but then again, I'm a bit partial as you may be able to tell from my webpages)
Just curious?
(Can't go wrong w/Memphis, but then again, I'm a bit partial as you may be able to tell from my webpages)
03-17-2005, 03:22 PM
#23
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Nice install
Great idea on the center channel.
Why did you use two?
Im assuming you lost your defroster with the baffle because you need to separate the front and rear waves?!
Remove the blue thing.
Tint the windows or get a cover for the rear subs. (people like to steal)
Great idea on the center channel.
Why did you use two?
Im assuming you lost your defroster with the baffle because you need to separate the front and rear waves?!
Remove the blue thing.
Tint the windows or get a cover for the rear subs. (people like to steal)
03-17-2005, 03:34 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by 2MuchRiceMakesMeSick
Nice install
Great idea on the center channel.
Why did you use two?
Im assuming you lost your defroster with the baffle because you need to separate the front and rear waves?!
Remove the blue thing.
Tint the windows or get a cover for the rear subs. (people like to steal)
Great idea on the center channel.
Why did you use two?
Im assuming you lost your defroster with the baffle because you need to separate the front and rear waves?!
Remove the blue thing.
Tint the windows or get a cover for the rear subs. (people like to steal)
rather two centers than one more speaker better sound.
Defroster is 100% functional.
Blue thing is gone already.
when i fold up the cover over the subs the car looks stock. when closed it touches the speakers at high SPL only. so at lower volumes i don't have to lower the cover. "but it's usually at super vomlume so that doesn't help much" I'm going to move the cover an inch forward sometime next week so it can stay covered without touching. this way i wont have to open the hatch to lower it everytime i get in and out of the car...
still need to know where i can get metal vents for the outside of the car...
03-17-2005, 03:40 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by ILuvMyTransam
thanks,
rather two centers than one more speaker better sound.
Defroster is 100% functional.
Blue thing is gone already.
when i fold up the cover over the subs the car looks stock. when closed it touches the speakers at high SPL only. so at lower volumes i don't have to lower the cover. "but it's usually at super vomlume so that doesn't help much" I'm going to move the cover an inch forward sometime next week so it can stay covered without touching. this way i wont have to open the hatch to lower it everytime i get in and out of the car...
still need to know where i can get metal vents for the outside of the car...
rather two centers than one more speaker better sound.
Defroster is 100% functional.
Blue thing is gone already.
when i fold up the cover over the subs the car looks stock. when closed it touches the speakers at high SPL only. so at lower volumes i don't have to lower the cover. "but it's usually at super vomlume so that doesn't help much" I'm going to move the cover an inch forward sometime next week so it can stay covered without touching. this way i wont have to open the hatch to lower it everytime i get in and out of the car...
still need to know where i can get metal vents for the outside of the car...
Youll get alot better sound out of them if you seperate the front and rear waves with a baffle.
Why do you need metal vents?
03-17-2005, 03:44 PM
#26
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Originally Posted by 2MuchRiceMakesMeSick
Youll get alot better sound out of them if you seperate the front and rear waves with a baffle.
Why do you need metal vents?
Why do you need metal vents?
I want the metal vents purely for look...i've seen this on a couple local TA's and liked the effect alot...
03-17-2005, 03:54 PM
#27
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Isolation of the front and rear waves is critical in sound reproduction. A baffle is a barrier that separates these two waves. Without one the waves cancel each other out.
You can test this yourself.
Take a speaker without a box, hook it up and listen. It barley makes any sound at all because the waves are canceling each other out.
Now take that same speaker and separate the waves (usually in a box). Now you can hear the speaker making a deep rich sound.
Try it. You’ll be impressed.
You can test this yourself.
Take a speaker without a box, hook it up and listen. It barley makes any sound at all because the waves are canceling each other out.
Now take that same speaker and separate the waves (usually in a box). Now you can hear the speaker making a deep rich sound.
Try it. You’ll be impressed.
03-17-2005, 04:14 PM
#28
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with the frequencies that are being used in the center 3 1/2" i didn't think that box was needed rather that free air would work fine. i was under the assumtion that a box is only required for lower frequencies.
regardless, it sounds very punchy and mixes in well BUT i haven't toyed with the surround capabilities as of yet...we'll find out...
regardless, it sounds very punchy and mixes in well BUT i haven't toyed with the surround capabilities as of yet...we'll find out...
03-17-2005, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by ILuvMyTransam
with the frequencies that are being used in the center 3 1/2" i didn't think that box was needed rather that free air would work fine. i was under the assumtion that a box is only required for lower frequencies.
regardless, it sounds very punchy and mixes in well BUT i haven't toyed with the surround capabilities as of yet...we'll find out...
regardless, it sounds very punchy and mixes in well BUT i haven't toyed with the surround capabilities as of yet...we'll find out...
Well youll get a full range of sounds from them if you seperate the waves thats all im saying. Im not saying to build a box. Just use a baffle in a free air application.
Every speaker needs a box due to wave cancellation no matter what frequency its reproducing. Tweeters have their own enclosure
Free air means you seperate the waves by use of a baffle. What makes it free air is you dont have a box
03-21-2005, 12:30 PM
#30
Originally Posted by ILuvMyTransam
when i fold up the cover over the subs the car looks stock. when closed it touches the speakers at high SPL only. so at lower volumes i don't have to lower the cover. "but it's usually at super vomlume so that doesn't help much" I'm going to move the cover an inch forward sometime next week so it can stay covered without touching. this way i wont have to open the hatch to lower it everytime i get in and out of the car...
03-21-2005, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by InfiniteReality
How do you plan on moving it up an inch? I'm curious as I have a subthump t-top box and would like to have the flap cover my 3-10s up too. BTW, here's another vote for SubThump!
03-21-2005, 04:27 PM
#33
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That is freakin soooooo nice looking.
May I ask how much this has cost you? I'm saving for a new engine and some other drivetrain suspension mods, but almost all my speakers are blown and I figure might as well throw some new sound into my car.
May I ask how much this has cost you? I'm saving for a new engine and some other drivetrain suspension mods, but almost all my speakers are blown and I figure might as well throw some new sound into my car.
03-21-2005, 05:51 PM
#34
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Originally Posted by ILuvMyTransam
Alright the more i look at it the more i agree it looks cheap. i'll remove it. BUT i want to do more for this area with something...any idea's? also i want to modify the out side vents on the sides of the car to metal or colored. any idea where i can find something like this aftermarket? i've seen them on local TA's but never had the chance to ask one of them where to get the parts...
I'll ditch the wires...
I'll ditch the wires...
i think the system setup is great, too!
03-21-2005, 06:06 PM
#35
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which set up are you looking at? i think you're looking at InfiniteReality's set up and confusing it for mine. it all depends on what you want. i personally just wanted good sound without too much show off so i hid my amps and didn't do anything too special for look. although i think his looks great, i use this car for everyday driving and don't have a garage so getting everything to sound great and look somewhat stock inside was my main goals.
My set up was 7K out the door with alarm, remote starter (2 way) new speakers all around inside by eclipse custom subthump box three high output 10" subs two new amps. one 4 way and one mono for the subs at 2 ohms pushing 1100 watts by memphis audio. the head unit by kenwood (top of the line with DVD touch screen 7" moterized) Nav add on and sirius satelite radio and install by The Sound Advantage.
My set up was 7K out the door with alarm, remote starter (2 way) new speakers all around inside by eclipse custom subthump box three high output 10" subs two new amps. one 4 way and one mono for the subs at 2 ohms pushing 1100 watts by memphis audio. the head unit by kenwood (top of the line with DVD touch screen 7" moterized) Nav add on and sirius satelite radio and install by The Sound Advantage.
03-22-2005, 07:45 PM
#36
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Originally Posted by InfiniteReality
How do you plan on moving it up an inch? I'm curious as I have a subthump t-top box and would like to have the flap cover my 3-10s up too. BTW, here's another vote for SubThump!
That looks good
Is it my eyes or does the two subs on the side have inverted dust caps where as the center is a dome?
03-23-2005, 07:46 AM
#37
Yep you are correct! I have two W3v2-D4's on the outsides and one W0 in the middle. Just had the W0 left over from the stealth box and ran outta money to put 3 W3's and a dedicated sub amp. Soon I'll have a 3rd W3v2 and a sub amp. My 2 four channel amps will be strictly for my 2 sets of components.
03-23-2005, 02:30 PM
#38
I smell Bi-amp.....I love the level of control w/this setup!
Just an awesome system, and we should have a battle of the "heavyweight F-bodies".
400# total over stock including dynamatting. Kiss your gas mileage goodbye (lol).
Actually, I only lost 1 mpg, so I guess I can live with that, but how is your car handling with these mods?
Just an awesome system, and we should have a battle of the "heavyweight F-bodies".
400# total over stock including dynamatting. Kiss your gas mileage goodbye (lol).
Actually, I only lost 1 mpg, so I guess I can live with that, but how is your car handling with these mods?
03-23-2005, 02:58 PM
#39
Originally Posted by Firehawk526
I smell Bi-amp.....I love the level of control w/this setup!
Just an awesome system, and we should have a battle of the "heavyweight F-bodies".
400# total over stock including dynamatting. Kiss your gas mileage goodbye (lol).
Actually, I only lost 1 mpg, so I guess I can live with that, but how is your car handling with these mods?
Just an awesome system, and we should have a battle of the "heavyweight F-bodies".
400# total over stock including dynamatting. Kiss your gas mileage goodbye (lol).
Actually, I only lost 1 mpg, so I guess I can live with that, but how is your car handling with these mods?
Bi-amping, I'm assuming mine since at some point I will have 1-4 channel amp per component set, then one for the subs. I haven't noticed any difference in handling with the extra weight. I do have some dynamatting, I think 3 big sheets of it. Not near as much as you're car, but do have an okay bit.
I wonder how much it all weighs.. Umm, I'd have no clue a couple hundred pounds.. Dang, that's 2 tenths off my 1/4! I'll definitely take the sub box out next time on the strip! =)