mergleh00ss

Hey,
I am looking at the Alpine Type-S SWS 1222D and 1242D
They cost the same, but the first is 2ohms and the second if 4ohms.
What is the difference in these speakers? As in, why would someone buy one over the other?
Thanks
Scott

rotwiler

iTrader: (1)

Varies on how many speakers you want to run off a channel, how low your amp runs stable at.

mergleh00ss

the amp i am lookin at is the Alpine MRD-M501
275 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (CEA-2006 Compliant)
550 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
2-ohm stable

only problem i just noticed is im trying to get 2 12s, but i have t-tops. i noticed that the milhouse boxes dont come made for 2 12s, and i have a cd changer so i cant use 2 stealth boxes.

mergleh00ss

Another thing,
If i want 2 of these subs to run on the amp stated above, would it be 225W to each sub (if i get the 2ohm)?

thunder550

iTrader: (70)

The type of subs you get should be dependent on the amp you're buying. In your case, the amp is 2 ohm stable.

Those subs are DVCs...you will want the dual 2 ohm subs. Series the coils (making each sub effectively 4 ohms) and parallel the two subs (giving the amp 2 ohms). Since the RMS power handling is 300 watts per sub, I'd recommend you going to at least a 600w x 1 @ 2 ohm amp, maybe more. There's nothing wrong with a little overkill, you can always turn the gains down and let the amp run cooler. It's tough to get the sound you want out of the subs when you underpower them, and believe it or not, it's easier to damage them with not enough power than with too much....if you turn the gain up too much the amp will clip the signal and will damage itself and/or the subs. I have a 1500 watt x 1 @ 2 ohm Rockford amp (Power 1501bd) pushing my two 10" Punch HX2s (RFD2110), which are rated at 500 watts RMS each. I kept the gain low on the amp, and have had them pounding for over a year now without any problem.

If you go lower than 2 ohms, you will more than likely cause the amp to heat up enough to go into thermal protect or just plain old fry it. And yes, if you run two subs at 2 ohms each will get 225 watts.

You should be able to fit the 12's in if you get creative...I don't have an F-body, so I'm not sure about the space, but you can always move the CD changer...

mergleh00ss

thanks thunder, your info was real helpful!
after doing some more looking, i came across this amp
Alpine MRD-M605

in its specs it states

MAX Power (at 14.4V,EIAJ)
Per channel into 2 ohms : 900W x 1

RMS Power (at 12V,20Hz-200Hz)
Per channel into 2 ohms : 400W x 1
Per channel into 4 ohms : 250W x 1

RMS Power (at 14.4V,20Hz-200Hz)
Per channel into 2 ohms : 600W x 1

i noticed u reccommended an amp with 600W @ 2ohm x1 which of these numbers am i supposed to go by? because the very bottom has the 600W

thunder550

iTrader: (70)

The voltage numbers are numbers that you could expect when the engine is on vs. when it is off, although if you're running a stock alternator I don't think you'll ever see 14.4 volts. Most of the stock ones I've seen (at least in the trucks) are around 13.8 or so. I think that amp would do pretty well with those subs, especially considering that the next step up is the M1005, which is probably expensive as hell. BTW, the max power numbers don't mean anything useful, so never make a decision based on those. Always go by the RMS numbers.

mergleh00ss

alright man, thanks very much for your help,
with that said im prolly gonna go with:

Amp: Alpine MRD-M605
Subs: 2 Alpine Type-S SWS 1222D
Boxes: as far as these go, i dont think it matters, just need to find 2 stealth boxes, so if anyone has, let me know!

Thanks again
Scott

rotwiler

iTrader: (1)

2 10's will sound great too, plus they will fit in the Millhouse box. Is easy to remove when you want to go to the track or flip up for t top storage. The well boxes that I seen take up all the rear and if space doesn't matter then it would work, but then getting to your cd changer would be a pain. Subthump also makes the rear well box that has a space for t tops. I sold my Monsoon HU and stock cd changer for $250 on here and used the $ to buy my kenwood, swi-x to keep the steering wheel controls and a capactior. My setup is odd, I had 2 8 ohm JL audio 10's in a JL audio box running into 4ohms to my amp in mono. When 1 of the speakers had a problem the store added a 4 ohm instead of 8. Awhile later I bought the Millhouse box and found out I had missmatched speakers, now my amp is seeing a 2.6 ohm load, but it sounds better this way, so I stuck with it. Adding a aftermarket amp with 5 volt outputs made the bass output much better.

thunder550

iTrader: (70)

You'll get even better sound if you switch the other one to a 4 ohm too...If the amp is 2 ohm stable, which most are, you'll put out more power at 2 ohms than 2.6 ohms. Plus, your subs right now are not receiving the same amount of power. One should be thumping harder than the other, and if you have a common chamber box they may be fighting against eachother.