Auto Down/Progressive Door Lock/DEI 530T
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On The Tree
Joined: May 2004
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Auto Down/Progressive Door Lock/DEI 530T First, this is the thread with all the information available so far:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ndow+down+530t
Now, it appears as though no one has actually done the remote auto-down, but a lot of people know what it would take. I am attempting this but read something that was a little weird in my DEI 530T manual. It said the pulse needed to auto-down the windows (which I would use the 2nd key fob button press for) requires a pulse for 3.0 seconds, as a pulse for less than 1 second will only crack the windows.
My questions are:
1) Is the factory key fob/system capable of this? It seems to me when it is pressed it sends a short pulse, nothing 3 seconds long.
2) Is there any way to change this? Is there some kind of electronics piece (that's somewhat cheap) that I can wire in between the 530T and the pulse source on the passenger side so that it will lengthen the pulse to 3 seconds instead of instantaneous?
I really hope someone else has done this, because wiring isn't my thing.
Thanks.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ndow+down+530t
Now, it appears as though no one has actually done the remote auto-down, but a lot of people know what it would take. I am attempting this but read something that was a little weird in my DEI 530T manual. It said the pulse needed to auto-down the windows (which I would use the 2nd key fob button press for) requires a pulse for 3.0 seconds, as a pulse for less than 1 second will only crack the windows.
My questions are:
1) Is the factory key fob/system capable of this? It seems to me when it is pressed it sends a short pulse, nothing 3 seconds long.
2) Is there any way to change this? Is there some kind of electronics piece (that's somewhat cheap) that I can wire in between the 530T and the pulse source on the passenger side so that it will lengthen the pulse to 3 seconds instead of instantaneous?
I really hope someone else has done this, because wiring isn't my thing.
Thanks.
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 257
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From: H-Town
I don't remember the output pulse lengths for that particular module, but the manual should tell you. If the pulse length isn't long enough on channel two, is there an option or other channel that provides an output for as long as you hold the button? This would assimilate your finger on the window switch itself - if you tap it, it cracks - if you hold it, it auto-downs. Just an idea from when I did this stuff professionally.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2004
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Thanks Daley,
From further searching, it appears I need DEI's 528T which is a pulse relay (for about $20 shipped on ebay... seems steep) which will allow me to make a 3 second pulse any time I double-tap the unlock button. Holding the second tap of the unlock button does not give a continuous pulse. If I put this relay between the DEI530T and the extra channel and set the pulse for 3 seconds, it should work.
From further searching, it appears I need DEI's 528T which is a pulse relay (for about $20 shipped on ebay... seems steep) which will allow me to make a 3 second pulse any time I double-tap the unlock button. Holding the second tap of the unlock button does not give a continuous pulse. If I put this relay between the DEI530T and the extra channel and set the pulse for 3 seconds, it should work.
Launching!
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From: Apple Maggot Quarantine Zone
Just a heads up on this. I was trying to figure out autostart on the factory keyless, and found something interesting. Hitting unlock twice on your remote, is the same as hitting unlock switch on your door! What this means, is if you are using the factory alarm to unroll your windows, they will be unrolled every time you hit unlock on the drivers door. Just letting you know.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Not if you did the mod correctly. It's only the passenger door unlock switch that will give the pulse - the driver's door switch should be unaffected. You can reduce the chance of this happening by adding a relay that prevents activation while the ignition is on.
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Thread Starter
On The Tree
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Status Update...
Okay, I've got it mostly installed (still waiting for the 528T to arrive however). I've run into a few problems. My wiring looks good, and the windows roll up/down fine with express. However,
1) The switches do not work without the car running, but I'm hoping when I get the 528T the remote rolldown will work, just switches will not work without a key in.
2) The Orange and Red&White wires are switched. Orange is supposed to roll up with a negative pulse. However, when I put it into the drivers side locks, it rolls down with the pulse (possibly because it's a positive pulse? i don't know). It will completely roll the windows down if I hold the unlock (or lock, whichever it's connected to) switch down.
3) The Red/White wire, which is supposed to roll down, actually rolls up. However, when I connect it to he lock pulse, it only rolls up a fraction (a quarter second maybe?) and does not continue if i Hold down the switch.
I'm thoroughly confused. Hopefully someone here with more electrical knowledge than I can shed some light on this situation.
Okay, I've got it mostly installed (still waiting for the 528T to arrive however). I've run into a few problems. My wiring looks good, and the windows roll up/down fine with express. However,
1) The switches do not work without the car running, but I'm hoping when I get the 528T the remote rolldown will work, just switches will not work without a key in.
2) The Orange and Red&White wires are switched. Orange is supposed to roll up with a negative pulse. However, when I put it into the drivers side locks, it rolls down with the pulse (possibly because it's a positive pulse? i don't know). It will completely roll the windows down if I hold the unlock (or lock, whichever it's connected to) switch down.
3) The Red/White wire, which is supposed to roll down, actually rolls up. However, when I connect it to he lock pulse, it only rolls up a fraction (a quarter second maybe?) and does not continue if i Hold down the switch.
I'm thoroughly confused. Hopefully someone here with more electrical knowledge than I can shed some light on this situation.
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TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: F.H,Waterford,Port Huron, MI
A few thing I wanted to add
1- where did you mount the 530T?
2-it is programable with a BitWiter is you have a upper alarm.
3- Good luck the as these work af resistance and cool or warm weather can make they burn out motors, not work, ect..
I have done many many many of these and if the car is mastered of the drive,box is very close to the switch,glass rides in a track and frame. You have like a 80% chance it will work long term.
1- where did you mount the 530T?
2-it is programable with a BitWiter is you have a upper alarm.
3- Good luck the as these work af resistance and cool or warm weather can make they burn out motors, not work, ect..
I have done many many many of these and if the car is mastered of the drive,box is very close to the switch,glass rides in a track and frame. You have like a 80% chance it will work long term.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2004
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Originally Posted by 2FAST4U
A few thing I wanted to add
1- where did you mount the 530T?
2-it is programable with a BitWiter is you have a upper alarm.
3- Good luck the as these work af resistance and cool or warm weather can make they burn out motors, not work, ect..
I have done many many many of these and if the car is mastered of the drive,box is very close to the switch,glass rides in a track and frame. You have like a 80% chance it will work long term.
1- where did you mount the 530T?
2-it is programable with a BitWiter is you have a upper alarm.
3- Good luck the as these work af resistance and cool or warm weather can make they burn out motors, not work, ect..
I have done many many many of these and if the car is mastered of the drive,box is very close to the switch,glass rides in a track and frame. You have like a 80% chance it will work long term.
2- don't have bitwiter
3- no idea what you just said, sorry.
Thanks
TECH Fanatic
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From: F.H,Waterford,Port Huron, MI
I would mount them in the driver door if I where you. I would be best on your window motors. I had mine set on press the button once windows go down 3" then hold the butoon and they drop or tap the button and 3" every time.
The window mod sees resistance on the motor and uses that to stop the window motor b/c it thinks it is all the way up or down. Do the longer the wire to the 530t or size of the wire or type of window on the car and the resistance changes. In time the windows will not go up and down. and b/c you cut the switch wires to go to the 530t. You will find yourself tapping the window switch 100times to get the window up/down, as the 530t will stop the motor.
The window mod sees resistance on the motor and uses that to stop the window motor b/c it thinks it is all the way up or down. Do the longer the wire to the 530t or size of the wire or type of window on the car and the resistance changes. In time the windows will not go up and down. and b/c you cut the switch wires to go to the 530t. You will find yourself tapping the window switch 100times to get the window up/down, as the 530t will stop the motor.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2004
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Originally Posted by 2FAST4U
You will find yourself tapping the window switch 100times to get the window up/down, as the 530t will stop the motor.
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From: F.H,Waterford,Port Huron, MI
Like I said I remember them being programable. B/C I had my camaro roll up the windows when the car armed. And on my Escalade they went all the way up if the prox sensor saw movement (protect the 8" screens in the headrests).
After this post I talked to two other guys at differnt shops. Both some of the top guys in this Michigan area. And they said the there are allot of problems with them. One guy has a Ranger that works perfect but the resistance is set realy high and he said " I know it will burn out the motor sooner or later" and the other guy said "it sucks and is never right for long I will remove it soon".
Don't get me wrong I hope it works perfect all the time for you and I may try to get mine to work again some day.
After this post I talked to two other guys at differnt shops. Both some of the top guys in this Michigan area. And they said the there are allot of problems with them. One guy has a Ranger that works perfect but the resistance is set realy high and he said " I know it will burn out the motor sooner or later" and the other guy said "it sucks and is never right for long I will remove it soon".
Don't get me wrong I hope it works perfect all the time for you and I may try to get mine to work again some day.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2004
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Originally Posted by 2FAST4U
Like I said I remember them being programable. B/C I had my camaro roll up the windows when the car armed. And on my Escalade they went all the way up if the prox sensor saw movement (protect the 8" screens in the headrests).
After this post I talked to two other guys at differnt shops. Both some of the top guys in this Michigan area. And they said the there are allot of problems with them. One guy has a Ranger that works perfect but the resistance is set realy high and he said " I know it will burn out the motor sooner or later" and the other guy said "it sucks and is never right for long I will remove it soon".
Don't get me wrong I hope it works perfect all the time for you and I may try to get mine to work again some day.
After this post I talked to two other guys at differnt shops. Both some of the top guys in this Michigan area. And they said the there are allot of problems with them. One guy has a Ranger that works perfect but the resistance is set realy high and he said " I know it will burn out the motor sooner or later" and the other guy said "it sucks and is never right for long I will remove it soon".
Don't get me wrong I hope it works perfect all the time for you and I may try to get mine to work again some day.
Thanks bud. So here's some info for everyone.
The Light Blue and Blue wires are the UP to the motors, and the brown are the down. Also, my passenger side would stick a little bit when the window was going up from the module and ran into the problem 2FAST4U warned me about. I raised the sensitivity from Factory to Medium and the problem is solved. I believe this is because my crappy motors are wearing out (they were sticky before I installed the 530T).
I need to connect one of the wires (the orange one) to a "ground when armed" signal from the alarm. Gotta find a wire under the driver's side kick panel that leads to this somehow.
Also, I need to figure out how to use this 528T. The open channel on the factory remote is grounded and sends a pulse when the second channel is pressed. However, you can't connect the red/white wire from the 530T to this, as it rolls down the windows on ground. So, I bought the 528T which has a timer that will hopefully allow me to reverse the polarity (in other words, when a positive pulse is detected, give a negative pulse to the 530T for 3+ seconds. However, I haven't had success getting this to work.
http://www.directechs.com/guides/man...528T_01-05.pdf
I've tried connecting the black/stipe wire to the extra channel, cutting the blue wire, connecting the red/yellow wires to the courtesy fuse (same place DEI530T is connected), and connecting the brown wire to the red/white 530T wire, and had no luck (also tried with blue wire not cut).
Any help at this point finding a ground-when-armed wire or setting up the 528T is appreciated, as I still have no idea what I'm doing.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
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Originally Posted by 2FAST4U
There is a ground when armed wire on the alarm. I don't know the color as different alarms are different. But it is in the install book.
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From: F.H,Waterford,Port Huron, MI
I am just shooting for answers here but the "factory door lock/unlocks turn of after the car is locked right? So if a relay was set at (N/0) with the coil powered then the power leaves the locking system in the car the coil would close to the (N/C) and if pin 30 was negative the window would close.
This is a little hard to wire up in my head as I have do papaer work on the car and am only going with what you are saying. If I have all the working inputs and outputs of the factory setup. I KNOW it would work.
This is a little hard to wire up in my head as I have do papaer work on the car and am only going with what you are saying. If I have all the working inputs and outputs of the factory setup. I KNOW it would work.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
No, sorry, there isn't any "ground when armed" or even "power when armed" signal from the factory alarm. Even the door lock signals are momentary and the window module needs a constant signal. I suppose you could rig up some kind of latching relay that would respond to a momentary signal from the door lock to trigger the timer module.
