Looking to go all aftermarket. Suggestions? (variable budget)
04-29-2005, 01:41 PM
#21
Originally Posted by TtamNedlog
....Thanks for clarifying all that. I'm sure I won't even need to worry about clipping. If I ever crank it up, it probably wouldn't be often anyway.....
regarding this statement, you shouldn't "crank it up", ever. i'm not talking about the volume on the head unit here when referring to clipping, i'm talking about the gain setting on the amp itself. that little **** is set once and should never be touched again, unless you change your setup.
04-29-2005, 11:39 PM
#22
Staging Lane
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Ok, I've decided finally. =p
Also, I'm wanting to go with the 10w3v2 sub from JL. A few questions if anyone might know the answer. On their site they don't list the specs "conventionally" or at least I couldn't find them. What is the sensitivity? The response frequency? The RMS/Max watts?
Also, I'm wanting to go with the 10w3v2 sub from JL. A few questions if anyone might know the answer. On their site they don't list the specs "conventionally" or at least I couldn't find them. What is the sensitivity? The response frequency? The RMS/Max watts?
04-30-2005, 01:09 AM
#23
oops, i posted the wrong link for that wiring kit...i meant this one: StreetWires PS04RSi. but yeah, that EFX one should work. both kits already come with a fuseholder & fuse, so take those seperates off the list and save yourself $65.
yes, on the head unit, you will need those other things in order to mount it.
about the 6½" speakers, the factory locations are actually 6¾", so they include an adapter to make a 6½" speaker fit.....you may or may not need to use it, buy hey, it's free!
the amp wiring kit comes with one patch cable, so yes, you will only need one more.
unless you already have it (or have access to some for cheap or free), don't forget to get some 16 or 14 gauge speaker wire (about 40 - 50 ft to be safe, as you may need to extend the tweeter wires) for the front speakers, and probably about 6 - 10ft of 12 or 10 gauge speaker wire for the sub, depending on where you are gonna mount the amp (remember on this, the lower the number, the bigger the wire).
and here are the JL Audio specs. they don't list a frequency response, because the actual response depends totally on the enclosure. but they do list the power handling and the other stuff, just click on the PDF file link on that page.
yes, on the head unit, you will need those other things in order to mount it.
about the 6½" speakers, the factory locations are actually 6¾", so they include an adapter to make a 6½" speaker fit.....you may or may not need to use it, buy hey, it's free!
the amp wiring kit comes with one patch cable, so yes, you will only need one more.
unless you already have it (or have access to some for cheap or free), don't forget to get some 16 or 14 gauge speaker wire (about 40 - 50 ft to be safe, as you may need to extend the tweeter wires) for the front speakers, and probably about 6 - 10ft of 12 or 10 gauge speaker wire for the sub, depending on where you are gonna mount the amp (remember on this, the lower the number, the bigger the wire).
and here are the JL Audio specs. they don't list a frequency response, because the actual response depends totally on the enclosure. but they do list the power handling and the other stuff, just click on the PDF file link on that page.
04-30-2005, 01:16 AM
#24
by the way, if you're worried about pushing 400 watts into that JL because it says the RMS is 300, don't worry at all....the max RMS is listed at 600watts, so you should be fine....it's listed in the PDF file in case you were wondering
be sure to get the 2-ohm dual voicecoil sub so that you are getting optimal power out of that amp...refer to that link i posted before about the sub wiring, use the very first option "1 DVC driver with Voice Coils in Series".
be sure to get the 2-ohm dual voicecoil sub so that you are getting optimal power out of that amp...refer to that link i posted before about the sub wiring, use the very first option "1 DVC driver with Voice Coils in Series".
04-30-2005, 02:09 AM
#25
Staging Lane
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Alrighty. That Infinity is 350RMS, 1400 peak. It also has 95db sensitivity, although in JL's PDF it says the 85db "efficiency" of the JL sub is not an accurate way to compare whether one sub is "louder" than the other. *shrug* Seems like the Infinity one might be better suited, but I hear so much good about JL. I don't really have a local dealer, but I might trek about 40 minutes to the nearest one and see if I can listen to the Infinity and the JL.
And it's ok to go 2 ohm on the sub when the components are 4 ohm?
And it's ok to go 2 ohm on the sub when the components are 4 ohm?
04-30-2005, 06:01 AM
#26
with your amp's rear 2 channels bridged to mono, you want to keep the impedance connected to it at 4 ohms for optimum performance.
check out my post in this other thread for figuring out impedances Here
the picture below is how you should connect a 10w3v2 that has two 2-ohm voicecoils so as not to fry your amp:
if you get the infinity sub with dual 4-ohm voicecoils, the only way you can wire it up safely to that amp is by wiring the two voicecoils in series, which presents the amp's bridged channel with 8 ohms. that 8 ohms is then cut in half, with 4 ohms to each of the two channels, which means the amp is only putting out 200 watts total to the sub.
on the other hand, if you get the JL with the dual 2-ohm coils, the amp is presented with 4 ohms, which is cut in half, making 2 ohms to each channel, which makes your amp put out 400 watts.
if you were to wire the dual 4-ohm sub with both coils in parallel (+ spkr terminal to + spkr terminal to + amp terminal, and likewise for the - terms), you would present the bridged speaker output with a 2-ohm load, which is further divided in half again to each channel, which is 1 ohm, which can damage your amp.
check out my post in this other thread for figuring out impedances Here
the picture below is how you should connect a 10w3v2 that has two 2-ohm voicecoils so as not to fry your amp:
if you get the infinity sub with dual 4-ohm voicecoils, the only way you can wire it up safely to that amp is by wiring the two voicecoils in series, which presents the amp's bridged channel with 8 ohms. that 8 ohms is then cut in half, with 4 ohms to each of the two channels, which means the amp is only putting out 200 watts total to the sub.
on the other hand, if you get the JL with the dual 2-ohm coils, the amp is presented with 4 ohms, which is cut in half, making 2 ohms to each channel, which makes your amp put out 400 watts.
if you were to wire the dual 4-ohm sub with both coils in parallel (+ spkr terminal to + spkr terminal to + amp terminal, and likewise for the - terms), you would present the bridged speaker output with a 2-ohm load, which is further divided in half again to each channel, which is 1 ohm, which can damage your amp.
04-30-2005, 02:15 PM
#27
Staging Lane
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Thanks thanks thanks. All of this makes me wish I paid attention during the electrical circuits section of Physics class. =p
So if I wanted an Infinity Perfect 10.1, I would wan't the single 4-ohm coil version. I just called all the stereo places I'm aware of within a 45 minute driving radius, and NONE have that Infinity sub. So I can't listen and compare it with the JL.
Should I go with the JL or the Infinity? Price is negligible.
And will I need some sort of voltage guage to make sure I have a 12v constant when I'm hooking this stuff up?
You also said 16 or 14 guage, and 12 or 10 guage. Will either work or do I need to check the speakers and subs for a specification? There's no performance difference I assume. I'll need some crimp on connectors or something right, or will bare wire work?
So if I wanted an Infinity Perfect 10.1, I would wan't the single 4-ohm coil version. I just called all the stereo places I'm aware of within a 45 minute driving radius, and NONE have that Infinity sub. So I can't listen and compare it with the JL.
Should I go with the JL or the Infinity? Price is negligible.
And will I need some sort of voltage guage to make sure I have a 12v constant when I'm hooking this stuff up?
You also said 16 or 14 guage, and 12 or 10 guage. Will either work or do I need to check the speakers and subs for a specification? There's no performance difference I assume. I'll need some crimp on connectors or something right, or will bare wire work?
Last edited by TtamNedlog; 04-30-2005 at 03:02 PM.
04-30-2005, 04:27 PM
#28
yeah, you'd want the single 4-ohm coil on the Infinity.
both subs are pretty similar:
excursion: 14mm Infinity & 13.9mm JL Audio
power handling: 350 watts Infinity & 300 JL
recommended sealed airspace: .6cu ft Infinity & .625cu ft JL
either one is going to sound great with 400 watts pumped into it, so i would probably get the one that would be easiest to warranty if anything does happen to go wrong with it.
as for the speaker wires, yes, those are either/or...
16 ga or 14 ga for the fronts
12 ga or 10 ga for the sub
if you go with the JL, you'll need to wait till you get it to see what type of connectors you'll need, but with the Infinity, it has the binding-post type connectors on the sub, so you can just put bare wire in there.
both subs are pretty similar:
excursion: 14mm Infinity & 13.9mm JL Audio
power handling: 350 watts Infinity & 300 JL
recommended sealed airspace: .6cu ft Infinity & .625cu ft JL
either one is going to sound great with 400 watts pumped into it, so i would probably get the one that would be easiest to warranty if anything does happen to go wrong with it.
as for the speaker wires, yes, those are either/or...
16 ga or 14 ga for the fronts
12 ga or 10 ga for the sub
if you go with the JL, you'll need to wait till you get it to see what type of connectors you'll need, but with the Infinity, it has the binding-post type connectors on the sub, so you can just put bare wire in there.
04-30-2005, 04:59 PM
#29
Staging Lane
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Thanks a million man! I feel like I should pay you for all this help. =( And thanks to everybody else's sugestions as well! I'll finally order all this tonight or tomorrow, when I figure out which sub's warranty will work out better.
Would you mind giving me your AIM 02Z28? =p
Would you mind giving me your AIM 02Z28? =p
04-30-2005, 05:33 PM
#31
Originally Posted by TtamNedlog
...I feel like I should pay you for all this help...
would you like to pay it all at once, or in 3 easy payments? just send a check or money order to the address below........
j/khow about instead of paying me, you pay the whole board by posting some really good pics of everything.
05-01-2005, 04:05 PM
#34
Originally Posted by unredeemed
I wouldn't touch this question with a 10' pole. Too much emotions will come up.. 
But brands like Image Dynamics, Alpine, Rockford Fosgate, Infinity, JL Audio, MTX, eD, Adire, and more are just the tip of iceberg in regards to good brands.
But brands like Image Dynamics, Alpine, Rockford Fosgate, Infinity, JL Audio, MTX, eD, Adire, and more are just the tip of iceberg in regards to good brands.
