Stock head unit-Sub question
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 415
Likes: 0
From: OK
Stock head unit-Sub question I'm sure this has been asked a million times, but I couldnt find the answer I was looking for in a search. I am a certified retard when it comes to stereo systems so try and help me out.
I am buying a 10" sub with a 400 watt amp and a stealth box, but keeping the stock head unit. I know I need some kind of converter and I read that this could cause distortion and **** up something with a voice coil?
Has someone here done this? Let me know whats happening and give me some tips, thanks guys.
I am buying a 10" sub with a 400 watt amp and a stealth box, but keeping the stock head unit. I know I need some kind of converter and I read that this could cause distortion and **** up something with a voice coil?
Has someone here done this? Let me know whats happening and give me some tips, thanks guys.
Originally Posted by zchgla
I'm sure this has been asked a million times, but I couldnt find the answer I was looking for in a search. I am a certified retard when it comes to stereo systems so try and help me out.
I am buying a 10" sub with a 400 watt amp and a stealth box, but keeping the stock head unit. I know I need some kind of converter and I read that this could cause distortion and **** up something with a voice coil?
Has someone here done this? Let me know whats happening and give me some tips, thanks guys.
I am buying a 10" sub with a 400 watt amp and a stealth box, but keeping the stock head unit. I know I need some kind of converter and I read that this could cause distortion and **** up something with a voice coil?
Has someone here done this? Let me know whats happening and give me some tips, thanks guys.
This is the piece you are looking for:
This is a diagram of how it works:
There is a write up on ls1.com of the problem you are talking about, but has been fixed. Here is the quote on the write up:
As some of you know, the PAC OEM-1 has had problems with the REAR outs being summed to mono some where along the signal path. Karl from PAC gave me a call a couple of days ago to discuss my problem and he just posted this fix, or you can take a look here for a diagram of the fix:
http://www.pac-audio.com/bulletins/a...20bulletin.pdf
Hi guys, just looked at a vehicle today and found the problem of the rear outputs of the OEM-1 not balancing. Our ADD-GM21C cable was made incorrectly. The two rear negative inputs to the OEM-1 have been switched. We will let our supplier know of the problem and future shipments of the ADD-GM21C cable will be corrected.
We will have a bulletin posted the first part of next week that will explain how to fix the wire harness.
If you guys are technical, you can just cut the grn/blk and purple/blk wires in half just before the 18 pin molex connector, but leave enough ***tail so you can solder/butt splice it to the opposite wire. Without a pin extraction tool, it will be impossible to remove the pins without damage, so just cut and resplice oppostire wires. If you did not understand what I meant, then wait till the bulletin gets posted on our website.
We apologize, and hope you will continue to recommend and use our products.
Thank you,
Karl
http://www.pac-audio.com/bulletins/a...20bulletin.pdf
Hi guys, just looked at a vehicle today and found the problem of the rear outputs of the OEM-1 not balancing. Our ADD-GM21C cable was made incorrectly. The two rear negative inputs to the OEM-1 have been switched. We will let our supplier know of the problem and future shipments of the ADD-GM21C cable will be corrected.
We will have a bulletin posted the first part of next week that will explain how to fix the wire harness.
If you guys are technical, you can just cut the grn/blk and purple/blk wires in half just before the 18 pin molex connector, but leave enough ***tail so you can solder/butt splice it to the opposite wire. Without a pin extraction tool, it will be impossible to remove the pins without damage, so just cut and resplice oppostire wires. If you did not understand what I meant, then wait till the bulletin gets posted on our website.
We apologize, and hope you will continue to recommend and use our products.
Thank you,
Karl
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 415
Likes: 0
From: OK
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 396
Likes: 0
I had three MTX 10's running on a 400x1 MTX amp with the factory Monsoon system in my old Firebird using one of those level converter deals. It didn't sound too good. It hit hard but the sound quality wasn't there. Plus since I was using the stock Monsson deck/amp/speakers I couldn't cut the bass to the speakers, so the speakers would distort at high volume. To counter this we turned the gain up way high on the sub amp and turned the lows down on the EQ on the Monsoon deck. This allowed the volume to increase with less distortion but since the gain on the amp was to the moon the subs suffered in sound quality. The best way I could describe it would be like it sounded like "wood" I guess. For what it costs to do it was worth it though. If you just want cheap bass go for it...it doesn't sound that bad.
I ran 2 JL audio 10's with a line level to rca adaptor for 2 years to a mtx 2150x amp. I thought it sounded pretty good. Then I removed the monsoon(sold it for $100), Bought refurbished Kenwood 922 and the stereo shop threw in a steering wheel controls adaptor SWI-x for free. Sound is 100% better and bass hits alot harder, also with the Kenwood I can adjust the monsson speakers to remove some bass so they get louder and sound cleaner. Keeping the Monsoon deck works, but if you ever add a aftermarket stereo you will never want to go back.
