help with ohm load...
06-03-2005, 03:41 PM
#1
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help with ohm load... ok. i got my MTX 942 2ch amp hooked up and i have it hooked to 2 audiobahn 12" 700w rms subs in a subthump t-top box. i turned it on to make sure evorything was working fine and it sounded good at a low volume. but before i go and turn it up or play it anymore i wana make sure im not putting too much stress on the amp and amke sure i have it wired rite..... ...... ok, the amp is 2 ch, i have a + and a - comeing from each terminal on the amp and they are not bridged. i ran thoes to the terminals on the box (one terminal for each enclosed part) for the sub wireing....... they are dvc 4ohm subs. i ran a wire from each terminal ( + - ) to the + - on one voice coil. and from their i ran a wire from the + on that vc to the + on the other and did the same with the -. so what do i have it wired in now? and if i dont have it in 2 ohm how do i wire it to get it their. thanks!
06-03-2005, 05:50 PM
#3
OK. You were wondering how to wire up the Amp? or the Speaker? Yes. 2ohm for the Subs is fine in stereo mode. 4ohms bridged is the same load as 2 ohm stereo because when you bridge an amp it'll drop the load accross the 2 channels......Never mind. 4ohms bridged is the same as 2 ohm stereo. Just remeber that part.
There are 2 long write ups in the FAQ area but I'll sum it up for you. You'll want it wired the way you have it (Parrallel wired Voice coils, Stereo wired amp) or you'll want to bridge the amp and wire the subs up in Series and parrallel the 2 leads from the speaker box.
What that means (parrallel and series) is this: Series is in a line. + to - to + to - and so forth. Basically it goes in a straight line.
Parrallel is the Pairing or 3,4,5,.... of the SAME Polarity (+ and - are polarities like on a magnit or speaker, or battery) Basically you take all the + and put them together. You'll then take all the -'s and put them together.
For Bass applications it is better to Wire the subs in a Bridged setting. Bass is omni-directional in smaller Enviroments so unless a rattle or a buzz is causing noise you cannot really tell where it is comming from. So Stereo is useless in a Small setting. Bridge takes the 2 signals and sums then together to create a new MONO signal. When a Song then FADES from left to right you'll notice a lower amount of bass. Normal.
If you run Subs in Stereo and a play music though, It'll cause 1 sub to always run a little more power to it and slightly louder due to the nature of recording. Drums and Bass players are almost always off to the sides. When the Music fades left to right it then basically shuts down that channel and speaker for that moment. The loss of 1 sub and power is a 3dB drop. So MEASURED WISE and somewhat audible wise you'll loose a little more volume. I recommend Bridge'ing an Amp for BASS/Sub applications.
There are 2 long write ups in the FAQ area but I'll sum it up for you. You'll want it wired the way you have it (Parrallel wired Voice coils, Stereo wired amp) or you'll want to bridge the amp and wire the subs up in Series and parrallel the 2 leads from the speaker box.
What that means (parrallel and series) is this: Series is in a line. + to - to + to - and so forth. Basically it goes in a straight line.
Parrallel is the Pairing or 3,4,5,.... of the SAME Polarity (+ and - are polarities like on a magnit or speaker, or battery) Basically you take all the + and put them together. You'll then take all the -'s and put them together.
For Bass applications it is better to Wire the subs in a Bridged setting. Bass is omni-directional in smaller Enviroments so unless a rattle or a buzz is causing noise you cannot really tell where it is comming from. So Stereo is useless in a Small setting. Bridge takes the 2 signals and sums then together to create a new MONO signal. When a Song then FADES from left to right you'll notice a lower amount of bass. Normal.
If you run Subs in Stereo and a play music though, It'll cause 1 sub to always run a little more power to it and slightly louder due to the nature of recording. Drums and Bass players are almost always off to the sides. When the Music fades left to right it then basically shuts down that channel and speaker for that moment. The loss of 1 sub and power is a 3dB drop. So MEASURED WISE and somewhat audible wise you'll loose a little more volume. I recommend Bridge'ing an Amp for BASS/Sub applications.
06-03-2005, 06:03 PM
#4
NOW. I will say to not scare you that running it in Stereo is fine. That's plan o'l OK.
This is how you'll wire up the System if you want the Subs to be in Seriers/Parrallel arrangement (IE Bridged) : You'll wire each sub in series. 2 4ohm loads then become 8ohms. In Series you just add the values and get a total.
Then you'll wire the 2 speaker wire sets in parrallel. Just put the +'s together and the -'s together. Simple. For straight SAME value resistance, Just divide the amount by 2. (8ohms/2 subs = 4ohms)
For the subs you'll go from the negative on 1 coil to the positive on the other one. Then from the Terminal Cap, you connect + to the + that is un-wired. Then put the - from the Terminal cap to the un-wired - on the sub.
It'll look like Option 2 on the pic below.
Also, Here is the link to do that:
http://www.sounddomain.com/shop/woof...dvc&x=134&y=12
This is how you'll wire up the System if you want the Subs to be in Seriers/Parrallel arrangement (IE Bridged) : You'll wire each sub in series. 2 4ohm loads then become 8ohms. In Series you just add the values and get a total.
Then you'll wire the 2 speaker wire sets in parrallel. Just put the +'s together and the -'s together. Simple. For straight SAME value resistance, Just divide the amount by 2. (8ohms/2 subs = 4ohms)
For the subs you'll go from the negative on 1 coil to the positive on the other one. Then from the Terminal Cap, you connect + to the + that is un-wired. Then put the - from the Terminal cap to the un-wired - on the sub.
It'll look like Option 2 on the pic below.
Also, Here is the link to do that:
http://www.sounddomain.com/shop/woof...dvc&x=134&y=12
Last edited by Richiec77; 06-17-2008 at 03:25 PM.
