Infinity Reference 6000cs
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: Verdigris, Ok
Infinity Reference 6000cs Hello All,
About a month ago I purchased a set Reference Components. After the install everything sounded great. I used the factory tweater crossover btw. After about a week of drivin' around I noticed that my new speakers were not making clear sounds. I do recall, when I turned up the music, I could hear the tweeters "popping" with the bass. I guess the factory crossover didn't filter enough of the bass out of the line?? So I used the crossover that came with the kit. Still the same. I know think that I have blow the entire set. Also, is it ok to use 4ohm speakers up front and keep the factory 2ohm in the rear??
About a month ago I purchased a set Reference Components. After the install everything sounded great. I used the factory tweater crossover btw. After about a week of drivin' around I noticed that my new speakers were not making clear sounds. I do recall, when I turned up the music, I could hear the tweeters "popping" with the bass. I guess the factory crossover didn't filter enough of the bass out of the line?? So I used the crossover that came with the kit. Still the same. I know think that I have blow the entire set. Also, is it ok to use 4ohm speakers up front and keep the factory 2ohm in the rear??
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
From: East Tennessee
You should always make sure that any tweeter has a High Pass Filter on it. Any low frequencys whatsover can blow them really quick. I would say if you used your factory crossovers, they were set to different specs than your new tweets. I would always run the X overs that came with the components.
no.
if you bought the 6000CS component set that includes the tweeters, woofers, and crossovers, and you did not connect the square crossover to the tweeter to begin with, then you have blown your tweeters. the tweets do not have inline filters in the cable. i know, because i have the same exact component set.
also, if you do not have both the woofer and the tweeter connected to the crossover simultaneously, it changes the nominal impedance that is presented to the amp....this also causes the crossover point to shift, and if it shifted to a lower frequency (say from 3500Hz to 2500Hz), then that could be the reason for the tweeters to have burned up.
if you are not going to connect both the woofer and the tweeter to the factory crossover at the same time, you will want to make sure you find out exactly what the tweeter's crossover point is, find out the exact nominal impedance of the tweeter, and get an inline filter that is set to that tweeter's factory crossover point while running at that tweeter's nominal impedance.
nominal impedance = impedance of the speaker when at rest (not moving)
if you get a filter that is set to cut off frequencies at (for instance) 3500Hz @ 2ohms, and you connect it to a speaker that has a nominal impedance of 4ohms, the actual crossover point is going to be different, because the impedance is different than what the filter is rated at.
one other thing to consider when doing this, is to make sure that any inline filter that you buy has at least the same (or steeper) crossover slope that the factory crossover has. for instance, if the factory x-over is rated at a 12db/octave slope, and you connect the speaker to one with a 6db/octave slope, the 6db one will allow more bass to be played than the 12db one will, which can cause damage to the tweeter.
if you bought the 6000CS component set that includes the tweeters, woofers, and crossovers, and you did not connect the square crossover to the tweeter to begin with, then you have blown your tweeters. the tweets do not have inline filters in the cable. i know, because i have the same exact component set.
also, if you do not have both the woofer and the tweeter connected to the crossover simultaneously, it changes the nominal impedance that is presented to the amp....this also causes the crossover point to shift, and if it shifted to a lower frequency (say from 3500Hz to 2500Hz), then that could be the reason for the tweeters to have burned up.
if you are not going to connect both the woofer and the tweeter to the factory crossover at the same time, you will want to make sure you find out exactly what the tweeter's crossover point is, find out the exact nominal impedance of the tweeter, and get an inline filter that is set to that tweeter's factory crossover point while running at that tweeter's nominal impedance.
nominal impedance = impedance of the speaker when at rest (not moving)
if you get a filter that is set to cut off frequencies at (for instance) 3500Hz @ 2ohms, and you connect it to a speaker that has a nominal impedance of 4ohms, the actual crossover point is going to be different, because the impedance is different than what the filter is rated at.
one other thing to consider when doing this, is to make sure that any inline filter that you buy has at least the same (or steeper) crossover slope that the factory crossover has. for instance, if the factory x-over is rated at a 12db/octave slope, and you connect the speaker to one with a 6db/octave slope, the 6db one will allow more bass to be played than the 12db one will, which can cause damage to the tweeter.
