Need 4 Channel Amp Suggestions
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Need 4 Channel Amp Suggestions I am looking to replace to head unit as well as all the speakers in my Monsoon equiped 1999. I think, form what I have read, it is going to be easier to just replace the speakers and the headunit and run a 4 channel amp to power the speakers.
The speakers I am looking at right now are CDT speakers. Specs are:
6.5" 2-way Component Set
Smaller, Euro-Size Cast Frames make installation much easier where space is tight
Midrange: 6.5" Cast Carbon Treated Paper Cone
Crossover: SatNet-480 4th order "Phase Perfect" 2-way
Tweeter: 1 in. Ultra smooth Silk Dome
Power handling: 120 watt RMS
Frequency response: 55-20kHz
Sensitivity: 91.9 dB
Impedance: 4 Ohm
Surface & flush mount tweeter
Mounting Depth 2.5” (Midrange Driver)
and these for the sail panels:
High quality 6.5" magnesium cast basket
Curve linear design carbon treated paper cone woofer
Stainless steel top and bottom magnet plates
Ceramic 14.6 oz woofer magnet
Gold plated terminals
Butyl rubber surrounds
Flat spider-allows a consistently linear cone excursion
25mm high temp aluminum voice coil former
130 watts power handling- at 100 Hz High Pass
Frequency response 55Hz-7kHz flat(6.5-octave response)
Sensitivity 93.10 dB (2.83V)
4 Ohm
Recommended high pass x-over point 65-90Hz
Recommended box design 5.8 liters
The amp I was looking at is an Infinity Reference. I have the ability to get this amp at a very good price brand new, but haven't heard much about them and wanted to see if anyone has had any experience with Infinity amps.
This is the amp I am looking at: http://www.infinitysystems.com/carau...er=REF&Cat=AMP
The speakers I am looking at right now are CDT speakers. Specs are:
6.5" 2-way Component Set
Smaller, Euro-Size Cast Frames make installation much easier where space is tight
Midrange: 6.5" Cast Carbon Treated Paper Cone
Crossover: SatNet-480 4th order "Phase Perfect" 2-way
Tweeter: 1 in. Ultra smooth Silk Dome
Power handling: 120 watt RMS
Frequency response: 55-20kHz
Sensitivity: 91.9 dB
Impedance: 4 Ohm
Surface & flush mount tweeter
Mounting Depth 2.5” (Midrange Driver)
and these for the sail panels:
High quality 6.5" magnesium cast basket
Curve linear design carbon treated paper cone woofer
Stainless steel top and bottom magnet plates
Ceramic 14.6 oz woofer magnet
Gold plated terminals
Butyl rubber surrounds
Flat spider-allows a consistently linear cone excursion
25mm high temp aluminum voice coil former
130 watts power handling- at 100 Hz High Pass
Frequency response 55Hz-7kHz flat(6.5-octave response)
Sensitivity 93.10 dB (2.83V)
4 Ohm
Recommended high pass x-over point 65-90Hz
Recommended box design 5.8 liters
The amp I was looking at is an Infinity Reference. I have the ability to get this amp at a very good price brand new, but haven't heard much about them and wanted to see if anyone has had any experience with Infinity amps.
This is the amp I am looking at: http://www.infinitysystems.com/carau...er=REF&Cat=AMP
Thats a good looking amp to me but my suggestion is ditch the sail panel speakers all together. Get the CDTs for the fronts power those with two of the channels and then bridge the last two and power a sub with that. When you have good components up front the back speakers are worthless. If you really feel you should have some back there like some people do then just stick to what i suggested and power the sail panel speakers with the headunit.
CMC
CMC
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Interesting. I haven't thought about doing that. I was actually looking into getting a seperate amp and having a JL 10" in a stealth box... I didn't think to bridge two channels off this amp to power the sub.
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I totally agree with HawkCMC in that you shouldn't use rear speakers. I have done it both ways and the rears are a waist and actually hurt your sound stage. Two things I noticed with the amp you are thinking about. First, if you are going to bridge the amp and use it for a sub, it is really nice to get an amp that comes with a remote bass ****. Second, the amp is only stable at 4 ohms in bridged mode. I prefer an amp that will let you bridge at 2 ohms so you have the extra power on tap if you want it in the future.
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It almost seems like running it like that would make it harder to tune and make sound right than if I had a seperate amp for the sub and a seperate amp for the door/sail speakers. Maybe I am wrong though.
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There is really nothing different between running two amps or one amp. Two amps is harder because you have to wire and mount two vs. one. It you get a dedicated sub amp, most likely it will come with a bass **** so you will still have to mount one of those. Unless you are looking to put more then 400 watts to the sub, there is no reason to pay for two amps.
Last edited by 98 LPE SS; Jun 14, 2005 at 09:55 AM.
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On The Tree
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From: Denver
Originally Posted by hawgs
Oh okay. Thanks for the help. 
Do you think that amp, 2 channels bridged at 4 ohm, would give a JL 10W3V2 or a JL 10W6V2 in a stealth box enough power?
Do you think that amp, 2 channels bridged at 4 ohm, would give a JL 10W3V2 or a JL 10W6V2 in a stealth box enough power?
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From: Denver
For info and pricing on CDT speakers, I would email this guy. islandsound1@yahoo.com
He is an authorized CDT rep and everyone says he has the best prices. He is also very honest and will tell you what fits your needs the best and how much power they really need.
For the amp, I would get one off Ebay. They can be had for $315 (make sure you get the current model). Don't be confused with the specs they post. For some reason they post the specs at 12.5 volts, not the 14.4 that everyone else posts. You can see the specs here.
http://www.kicker.com/05/tech-suppor...ch%20Brief.pdf
He is an authorized CDT rep and everyone says he has the best prices. He is also very honest and will tell you what fits your needs the best and how much power they really need.
For the amp, I would get one off Ebay. They can be had for $315 (make sure you get the current model). Don't be confused with the specs they post. For some reason they post the specs at 12.5 volts, not the 14.4 that everyone else posts. You can see the specs here.
http://www.kicker.com/05/tech-suppor...ch%20Brief.pdf
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Great. I can get a pretty decent deal on that amp as well and only have to worry about hooking up/mounting one amp.
A JL 10W3V2 should be able to hold up to that amp shouldn't it?
Thanks for all your help... because I was very lost when I made this post.
A JL 10W3V2 should be able to hold up to that amp shouldn't it?
Thanks for all your help... because I was very lost when I made this post.
Originally Posted by hawgs
A JL 10W3V2 should be able to hold up to that amp shouldn't it?
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Originally Posted by MadIceV8
Well the specs on sub ask for no more then 300RMS. The KX700.5 will be putting out 420RMS @ 2ohms... but that 420RMS is also underrated. So it might be a bit of overkill on that sub.
If not I suppose I could look into the 10W6V2 or a Kicker S10L5 or S10L7. Looking for good clean bass to provide a bottom end to my music... I have never been a fan of the big booming sloppy bass.
Originally Posted by hawgs
I was a little worried about that. Could it be hooked up at 4ohm and be okay? It would only be putting out 210 RMS then.
If not I suppose I could look into the 10W6V2 or a Kicker S10L5 or S10L7. Looking for good clean bass to provide a bottom end to my music... I have never been a fan of the big booming sloppy bass.
If not I suppose I could look into the 10W6V2 or a Kicker S10L5 or S10L7. Looking for good clean bass to provide a bottom end to my music... I have never been a fan of the big booming sloppy bass.
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The 10W6 is a very good sub but most people will tell you that JL subs need more space then what they specify to really sound good. You might want to consider getting a different sub because of that plus the fact you can't get wire it in a 2 ohm setup. I perviously had the old 10W6 in my stealth box and it was just okay. You need a sub that is good in about .5 cuft after figuring the displacement of the sub. Check the below site. It lists some subs recommended for stealth boxes. Two I would also recommend are the Arc 10D4 and SoundSplinter RL-I D4. I have an Arc in my car getting around 360 watts. It is known as one of the best SQ subs on the market and it puts out a ton of bass in a Camaro. I have a RL-I in a .75 box and it sounds good there. Based on the way it is built, it looks like it can take a huge amount of power.
http://www.subthump.com/acamarostealth.htm
http://www.arcaudio.com/arc-05/subwoofers/arc_10d4.htm
http://www.soundsplinter.com/rli_ign...r_drivers.html
http://www.subthump.com/acamarostealth.htm
http://www.arcaudio.com/arc-05/subwoofers/arc_10d4.htm
http://www.soundsplinter.com/rli_ign...r_drivers.html
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The sub I am looking at is a DVC 2 ohm speaker... so I should be able to hook it up at 210 RMS at 4 ohms and be okay. I think even running it at 420 RMS at 2 ohms might be okay as long as its not full power for hours at a time. I am getting a good deal on it so I will try it and see how it does. If it's not enough I will definitely look into the two you suggested.
I am also ordering that Kicker KX700.5 today as well.
Thanks for all your help 98LPESS and MadIce... really appreciate it.
I am also ordering that Kicker KX700.5 today as well.
Thanks for all your help 98LPESS and MadIce... really appreciate it.
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Okay.
One last question about the CDT component speakers I listed above... I see some component speakers with 1" tweeters and some with 3/4" tweeters. What size fits a 1999 Firebird?
One last question about the CDT component speakers I listed above... I see some component speakers with 1" tweeters and some with 3/4" tweeters. What size fits a 1999 Firebird?
You should mount them in a new position instead of in the stock location so either will work but if you really dont want to do that then you need the 1" Tweeters and will have to trim a little off of the location to make it work.
CMC
CMC
Originally Posted by 98 LPE SS
Here is what I would do. I would get a Kicker KX 700.5 amp. I have one of these in a Honda Pilot and it is a really good amp. It is a 5 channel amp with the 5th channel a class D amp dedicated to the sub. The amp comes with a very nice bass **** too. The other 4 channels would give you the option of running the sail panel speaker if you want. I wouldn't do that. I would bridge the channels for your CDT speakers so that each got 165 watts. If you go out to the SoundDomain or Elite Car Audio, you sill find that CDTs work much better with a lot of power, way more then their RMS. Then I would get a 2 ohm sub. Running with 2 ohms will give you 420 watts to the sub.
thats way too much power to the speakers, no need to spend more money on overkill imo.