lock/unlock problem
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From: college station/houston
lock/unlock problem My doors wont lock/unlock with the remote or with the button on the arm console by the window button..you can do it all manualy..they linside lights dont come on either....so what im asking is where is the fuse box and which fuse is it???also there is a clicking noise that comes from behind the glovecompartment when u push the buttons...
thanks
mike
thanks
mike
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Replace the COURTESY fuse (#8 - farthest right in second row). The fuse panel is behind a cover on the left end of the dash. Open the driver's door and you will see it. The cover is held in place by velcro so just pull to remove it.
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 57
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From: San Antonio, TX
Yeah, mine's doing the same exact thing after I tried the progressive door lock mod, now my door's don't unlock/lock unless I do it manually. I also hear the clicking whenever I push unlock/lock on the Keyfob or on the door. Did you get it fixed? I also checked my fuses and they were all fine.
Another x-market tip:
OEM security system WILL NOT allow you to lock your keys in the vehicle if keys are active in the steering column (on/access); HOWEVER, as I recently found out, the Viper 690 WILL go into protection mode if you leave the car running and close the door.
Be advised NOT to do this, else you'll need some assistance! Just a tip from stupidity! (lol)
OEM security system WILL NOT allow you to lock your keys in the vehicle if keys are active in the steering column (on/access); HOWEVER, as I recently found out, the Viper 690 WILL go into protection mode if you leave the car running and close the door.
Be advised NOT to do this, else you'll need some assistance! Just a tip from stupidity! (lol)
Last edited by Firehawk526; Jul 26, 2005 at 10:26 PM.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Actually, the factory system won't lock if the key is in the ignition regardless of whether it's on or not (if lockout prevention is programmed on). It uses the same circuit as the key-in warning chime to determine if the key is still in the switch. You can use the same circuit to wire an aftermarket alarm the same way - just tap into the key-in warning circuit and connect to one of the door open wires on the aftermarket alarm so that it thinks the door is still open if the key is in the ignition.
Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
Actually, the factory system won't lock if the key is in the ignition regardless of whether it's on or not (if lockout prevention is programmed on). It uses the same circuit as the key-in warning chime to determine if the key is still in the switch. You can use the same circuit to wire an aftermarket alarm the same way - just tap into the key-in warning circuit and connect to one of the door open wires on the aftermarket alarm so that it thinks the door is still open if the key is in the ignition.
Thanks for the tip!
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
No, I haven't tried it because I have a Hornet 720T alarm which is designed as an add-on to the factory system rather than a complete standalone alarm system. However, the light green wire in position C14 of the blue 32-pin connector at the BCM will provide ground when the key is in the ignition and nothing when it's not. You would have to check your alarm's installation manual for an input wire that prevents arming when a ground is applied (probably the door trigger or something similar). Connect that input wire to the wire at the BCM and your alarm won't arm if the key is left in the ignition. If the alarm has a positive input rather than ground to prevent arming then you could set up a relay to provide that positive signal using the key-in signal to trip the relay.
