what would it take to hit 150+db
#21
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thanks for all the help guys, i definitely plan on upgrading the wiring and everything. i have all 0 gauge equipment(blocks,etc) already bought that i was going to use in my truck but will go into the fbody. i had also planned on using batcaps, so that makes me feel better to know that someone else recommends them.
jpr5690, i know it would be heavy(my one 15 orion weighed 52lbs) but how would 4 15's be configured? would it be a wall or what? i know you can get 2 in the well
jpr5690, i know it would be heavy(my one 15 orion weighed 52lbs) but how would 4 15's be configured? would it be a wall or what? i know you can get 2 in the well
#22
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Make sure to upgrade the "Big 3" also. The Alt to Battery, Chassis to Engine, Battery to Chassis. Make sure to upgrade that as well. It will increase the efficiency of your system overall.
I do remember when U.S. Amps 1st came out. They created some major waves due to the $ per watt they were capable of. Plus had a small footprint. I wouldn't look into anything BUT a Class D amplifier. They are very efficient and make less heat and take up a smaller amount of space so therefor you can have more room for Air space.
I do remember when U.S. Amps 1st came out. They created some major waves due to the $ per watt they were capable of. Plus had a small footprint. I wouldn't look into anything BUT a Class D amplifier. They are very efficient and make less heat and take up a smaller amount of space so therefor you can have more room for Air space.
Last edited by Richiec77; 10-07-2005 at 05:14 PM.
#23
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what exactly do you mean by the big3? i know i'll need a better battery and alternator. what is alt to battery, chassis to engine, battery to chassis referring to. can you upgrade the grounds and things like that?
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if you're still on the look, see what you think of these. there's only 2 left in the states right now. there were 3, but i have one on the way for myself. on sale for about $350 each (reg $800 each). and that 2" xmax is a one way rating.....
http://www.ground-zero-audio.com/english/05_nw12.htm
this amp on sale for around $850 (reg $2200). watch out, it draws 270 amps at full bore. but if an amp isn't drawing big power.....it isn't making big power.
http://www.ground-zero-audio.com/english/08_pa23000.htm
http://www.ground-zero-audio.com/english/05_nw12.htm
this amp on sale for around $850 (reg $2200). watch out, it draws 270 amps at full bore. but if an amp isn't drawing big power.....it isn't making big power.
http://www.ground-zero-audio.com/english/08_pa23000.htm
#25
think 15's i mean personally im more in 12's but spl 15's are the way to go hell im tellin ya 4 cvr 15's and you wont have glass left in your car my buddy has 2 and you get blurry vision from them i really cant even imagine what 2 well setup L7 15's would do .. there was a guy on cardomain a while back who had 4 of them in a pewter T\A i think he did a 159 db (and these were the first batch of L7 kickers)
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Originally Posted by ohohsilverado
what exactly do you mean by the big3? i know i'll need a better battery and alternator. what is alt to battery, chassis to engine, battery to chassis referring to. can you upgrade the grounds and things like that?
#27
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thanks 95stroked, i used to have a earthquake phd3 that was supposed to draw 266 amps but i never got it installed because it looked like it was used before so i sent it back to the company. wish id kept it now.
jpr...i might have to try 2 L7 15's. that might not be bad and probably wouldnt be too much room
shouldaboughtthez...thanks, do you know where i would get an upgraded engine/chassis ground? arent they the mesh looking wire cables. could i run 2 factory ones?
i thought this thread would be simple but the more yall tell me the more questions i have. thanks for yalls help
jpr...i might have to try 2 L7 15's. that might not be bad and probably wouldnt be too much room
shouldaboughtthez...thanks, do you know where i would get an upgraded engine/chassis ground? arent they the mesh looking wire cables. could i run 2 factory ones?
i thought this thread would be simple but the more yall tell me the more questions i have. thanks for yalls help
#28
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You can upgrade to better wires by getting a kit and fabing it up yourself. I know Elemental Design's has a kit you have to cut and measure and then crmip yourself. I'm in the process of pricing out what it would cost to build a kit like this but already made and better constructed for F-Body's and Vette's. Hopefully I can get some #'s together soon.
I'll have to get the wiring off my car inorder to get the right legnths and area's of where they are run. Just haven't had the car in a month. It's down for repairs right now. Hopefully tuesday I can get some better info for you.
I'll have to get the wiring off my car inorder to get the right legnths and area's of where they are run. Just haven't had the car in a month. It's down for repairs right now. Hopefully tuesday I can get some better info for you.
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2 15 L7's in a ported.....= big box. even sealed = good sized box.
if the L7's space doesn't work out.....those nuke's will drop into 1.5 - 2 cubes each, ported!
if the L7's space doesn't work out.....those nuke's will drop into 1.5 - 2 cubes each, ported!
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Originally Posted by Richiec77
You can upgrade to better wires by getting a kit and fabing it up yourself. I know Elemental Design's has a kit you have to cut and measure and then crmip yourself. I'm in the process of pricing out what it would cost to build a kit like this but already made and better constructed for F-Body's and Vette's. Hopefully I can get some #'s together soon.
I'll have to get the wiring off my car inorder to get the right legnths and area's of where they are run. Just haven't had the car in a month. It's down for repairs right now. Hopefully tuesday I can get some better info for you.
I'll have to get the wiring off my car inorder to get the right legnths and area's of where they are run. Just haven't had the car in a month. It's down for repairs right now. Hopefully tuesday I can get some better info for you.