meissenation

iTrader: (2)

Well I've done some testing with the power supply so far. Thus far, it won't blink if everything's plugged in, but will go into idle/standby mode if I unplug the ATX cable. No clue why, but that's as far as I can figure out. Seems as though something went bad.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

If you put the home PSU and inverter in, does the PC work?
I really think you need to get a DMM so you can test a few things. Make sure the power and ground wires are not loose and getting good voltage to the Opus. If it really looks like a problem with the Opus you can contact:
tsupport@opussolutions.com
and describe the problem to them.

Do you have a copy of the Opus 150 PDF file? It shows some trouble shooting steps for interpreting the green status LED.

meissenation

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, it worked. It's definitely not the motherboard or anything like that. I went out there and hooked up the old setup with the invertor and regular ATX power supply and it booted up perfectly fine. I'll shoot them an email at that address, I have the PDF but there's no mention of what it means when the power supply doesn't blink at all lol. I found my multimeter again, it's not the digital it's a mechanical but it works better than my digital one. All the voltages are coming out straight, so it's not that either.

meissenation

iTrader: (2)

My response: "I'm a little confused as to how there would be too much load on the 5v STBY. That's the 5v wire that's on the harddrive connectors, right? The only draw on those wires would be the regular harddrive. What would be a good way to troubleshoot whether it's too much of a load or the controller is burnt? Is there any type of warranty for this occurrance?"

Looks like I won't have the carPC up and running for my car show on the 14th. 80+ fbodies and I have to explain why the carPC doesn't work again.

Koncrete

iTrader: (3)

too much draw on the power supply?

meissenation

iTrader: (2)

Supposedly. The only two things according to the support tech that's overloading the 5v stby is my USB GPS mouse, and the USB touchscreen. I know these supplies can handle that.. dunno. these supplies seem funky. Wouldn't have been my first choice the second time around, but they're expensive and as long as I'm still under warranty and can keep getting them replaced, that's fine with me.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

No, it's the purple wire between the PSU and the mobo. It supplies power from the PSU to the mobo and then the mobo distributes it to where it wants to.

http://www.pcguide.com/ref/power/sup...erboard-c.html

If you can get a digital DMM (maybe you analog will work), pull the purple wire out of the molex connector and put you meter inline so that power will flow from the PSU through the meter and to the purple wire. Plug in the inverter and AC PSU. Now you can see what the draw is on the 5vsb wire. Unplug the suspected USB devices one by one and see how much the current draw changes. Tell the warranty guys the milliamps it draws and ask if that is about right. I personally have no idea what the 5vsb should draw, but it can't be any higher than what the dc-dc PSU was drawing in total when powered down.

meissenation

iTrader: (2)

Aha, thanks for the info. I'll try it out, he sent me all the information for shipping it to him and what not, so more than likely I'll be shipping it to him later today and then having them fix it and ship it back.

Koncrete

iTrader: (3)

it just sounds to me like to much draw at once to turn completely on, what wattage are tose supposed to be?

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

What, his PSU? It's an Opus 150 and it's powering an Epia mobo. A 90 watt PSU could probably power it so I doubt it's too much draw at once.

Koncrete

iTrader: (3)

he does have a lot of other stuff on it though.... usb thingies and stuff....

it's not too much different then a regular computer, start throwing extra cards and drives in one and the PSU just can't meet the initial power on wattage needed.....

meissenation

iTrader: (2)

the only things being powered by USB are the USB touchscreen and the USB GPS mouse, and sometimes, rarely, a USB wireless internet adapter. The PSU definitely can handle the wattage, something in the PSU is faulty, and will have to be fixed. Since I found out that there was no possible way to have my PSU back to me in time for my car show ( have to explain to 80+ people that my PSU decided to just stop working and that's why it's ghetto rigged with an invertor... good publicity for Opus ) so I've slacked on taking it out. I have the RMA number to ship it back, just a matter of doing it. I'm at the point where I'm ready to just demand a refund and get a more stable PSU. It worked great for over a month, then literally just stopped working when nothing had changed.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

If you have a credit card or paypal you can have them ship you a new one 2nd day air and then ship the old one back. They will credit you once they get the old one and check it out. Just an idea.

meissenation

iTrader: (2)

Wish I could, but I don't have the $$$ right now, all my funds are going to my car show on the 13th.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I was assuming your show was the 6th or 7th. They can't get it back to you by the 13th?

meissenation

iTrader: (2)

Live in MI, shipping to CA takes 4 business days. I quoted on UPS on Friday if I dropped it off the same day, it wouldn't be there until end of day Thursday, three day turnaround is what they told me (I'm assuming they don't work weekends as I didn't get any email response on Saturday) would take it to Tuesday at the earliest, then ship it out another 4 days wouldn't be there till Saturday mid-day, day of the event. If only it would've happened like one week earlier. I'll talk to my parents, though, and see if they'll spot me until I get reimbursed... one of the nice parts of being 19 and living at home lol. If i can order it from them and get it in a few days and ship theirs to them and get reimbursed when they get it, I'd be gold.

Koncrete

iTrader: (3)

so does it not power on at all, or will it power on with some of the stuff unplugged?

if it will power on without all the accessories then you know you have a weak (Not doing as rated) power supply, but you could still use the basic functions. from the e-mail the tech sent you it sounds to me like this is what they think.. I have also read that some usb gps use a rather abnormal amount of power at power on and then drop, which is pretty normal for almost all electronics...

I know I would rather go to a car show and say "The company shipped me a power supply that wasn't putting out rated power so I can't use all the functionality I have installed" rather then "Yeah that's my ghetto rigged power inverter.

anyways it sounds like thier customer service needs some work....

meissenation

iTrader: (2)

Haha, well yeah no matter what I'll be explaining that the power supply quit out on me for the 2nd time, because if it was just too much juice then it should've showed signs a month ago when I started running it on a regular basis (granted I know this isn't always the case, though) instead of just not working one day. It's definitely something with the hardware of the powersupply, because the idle/standby LED will only blink if I unplug the ATX plug, otherwise it doesn't blink and acts as if there's no juice.

Koncrete

iTrader: (3)

that sucks, I hate when a system has to rely on a certain part that isn't very...widely used? not sure if that's a good term but it kinda works, not to many power supplies out for car pc's and that sucks....

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

OK, your dealing with Opus Solutions in Ca. I thought you were shipping to MP3car in Reisterstown, MD which is a lot closer to you. I forgot, but I think you bought it used or on E-bay, right?

Anyway, did you measure the 5vsb current? You could also just cut that purple wire and put the meter inline and then solder it back together when you done.