Meissen's Project CarPC Thread
Originally Posted by meissenation
Sucks about the M2s, were you atleast able to get your money back? Glad about the opus though, it's been a real pleasure having mine now that I got it all figured out. I noticed mp3car lowered the price down to $120, too.. not bad of a price.
So your going to paint it all red? I felt pretty strong about using vinyl to give it a nice factory look, but the red looks good. Are the button holes painted or do they just look white from the reflection?
Didn't you have the PSU wired up to a regular (non-RAP) IGN source earlier? I thought that's what you said, but I can't remember and I'm too lazy to reread this thread.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,634
Likes: 2
From: Macomb Twp, MI
Well, the bottom half of the dash is all red. The top half is all black... I thought ALL red would be a little too much, but the way it is now it's bright but not overwhelming. It looks pretty good with the carpet and everything, IMO atleast haha.
Well my solid state 12v wire goes straight from the battery, the other 12v switched source goes to the fuse panel and hooks into the radio's fuse (I was getting a more clean source of power from the fuse than I was getting splicing into the power wire to the headunit for some reason). Actually, now that I think about it, if you had an inline switch you could just use the battery connection for the 12v switched source too... although it wouldn't go on automatically with the car anymore kinda ruins the point I guess lol. I used the Jimmy Jam's Nitrous Accessories ashtray switch panel for my inline switch from the battery, that way if I leave the car sit for a week or two, I can just cut the power from the battery to the Opus just to make sure nothing is draining.
Well my solid state 12v wire goes straight from the battery, the other 12v switched source goes to the fuse panel and hooks into the radio's fuse (I was getting a more clean source of power from the fuse than I was getting splicing into the power wire to the headunit for some reason). Actually, now that I think about it, if you had an inline switch you could just use the battery connection for the 12v switched source too... although it wouldn't go on automatically with the car anymore kinda ruins the point I guess lol. I used the Jimmy Jam's Nitrous Accessories ashtray switch panel for my inline switch from the battery, that way if I leave the car sit for a week or two, I can just cut the power from the battery to the Opus just to make sure nothing is draining.
TECH Resident
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 964
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
Originally Posted by JasonWW
Man, I went through 3 of the M2's and had trouble with them all. I got the Opus 150 and it's been working like a charm so far.
I wanted to bring up something we were talking about before. Right now I have the PC trigger wire hooked up to the radio power wire. Since our cars have RAP, I have to turn off the engine and open the door before the signal is sent to the Opus. Then I wait 10 seconds and watch it shutdown. I thought this would be the way to go, but I'm not liking it. I think I would rather have the trigger wired into a regualar ign source. If I want to leave the PC on I can switch the key to acc, but so far the RAP takes too long. I find myself opening the door and then sitting there to make sure it starts going off. I need it to start turning off sooner.
My question is: Is there a non-RAP ign wire I can use as a trigger around the radio area?
If anyone knows, holler. Thanks.
I wanted to bring up something we were talking about before. Right now I have the PC trigger wire hooked up to the radio power wire. Since our cars have RAP, I have to turn off the engine and open the door before the signal is sent to the Opus. Then I wait 10 seconds and watch it shutdown. I thought this would be the way to go, but I'm not liking it. I think I would rather have the trigger wired into a regualar ign source. If I want to leave the PC on I can switch the key to acc, but so far the RAP takes too long. I find myself opening the door and then sitting there to make sure it starts going off. I need it to start turning off sooner.
My question is: Is there a non-RAP ign wire I can use as a trigger around the radio area?
If anyone knows, holler. Thanks.
TECH Resident
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 964
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
Originally Posted by meissenation
I actually JUST finished my rework of the bezel. Lessons learned from the past though, I shalt not post too many pictures here until the entire interior is finished and thy wires are hidden. 
I dropped the edges down another inch or so, it drops it closer to the center console and makes it an easier flow from the bezel to the console. There's also some hints from the console in the bezel... the "ridge" on the left bottom is mimicking the ridges of the console where it goes from the shift plate to the cubby hole. The right bottom is nice and smooth curve like the right side of the center console.
I dropped the edges down another inch or so, it drops it closer to the center console and makes it an easier flow from the bezel to the console. There's also some hints from the console in the bezel... the "ridge" on the left bottom is mimicking the ridges of the console where it goes from the shift plate to the cubby hole. The right bottom is nice and smooth curve like the right side of the center console.
I was hoping one of the radio wires was IGN but not through the RAP. I can tap a wire from around the fuse area, but I would need to extend the wiring, etc...
The M2 should turn off after 10 seconds once the trigger wire is removed. Not 2 seconds. The timing my be off on yours. Personally I'd like my turn on and off timings on the Opus to go from 10 seconds down to 3 or 4 seconds. I'm using the S3 suspend so it comes on really quick, but it has that 10 second delay which is a tad too long. The 10 second turn off delay after RAP releases means I'm out of the car, the door is closed and the music is still playing! Once I get the IGN wire changed it will probably be OK. I'd still like to mod it to come on sooner then it would be just like a regular stereo.
The M2 should turn off after 10 seconds once the trigger wire is removed. Not 2 seconds. The timing my be off on yours. Personally I'd like my turn on and off timings on the Opus to go from 10 seconds down to 3 or 4 seconds. I'm using the S3 suspend so it comes on really quick, but it has that 10 second delay which is a tad too long. The 10 second turn off delay after RAP releases means I'm out of the car, the door is closed and the music is still playing! Once I get the IGN wire changed it will probably be OK. I'd still like to mod it to come on sooner then it would be just like a regular stereo.
TECH Resident
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 964
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
Originally Posted by JasonWW
The M2 should turn off after 10 seconds once the trigger wire is removed. Not 2 seconds.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,634
Likes: 2
From: Macomb Twp, MI
Originally Posted by Z28-CTYHNTR
Hey man that looks a lot better than before and yeah thats a good idea to hide the rest till its done, lol. Cant wait to see it when its finished!
2 seconds sure seems like it'd be nicer than the 10 seconds, I'll give ya that much. I wonder if there's some way to tweak the Opus to do it.
Hey, I just ran across your other thread on your new interior. You got to give us a heads up.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...2&page=1&pp=20
I think that looks real nice. You mentioned changing the carpet to red. I don't know if you meant a bright red or the burgandy looking color you have now, but I would stick to the current color. Bright red would be too much IMO.
One thing I'm wondering, isn't the glovebox door a soft, flexable material with a lot of texture on it? How did you paint it?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...2&page=1&pp=20
I think that looks real nice. You mentioned changing the carpet to red. I don't know if you meant a bright red or the burgandy looking color you have now, but I would stick to the current color. Bright red would be too much IMO.
One thing I'm wondering, isn't the glovebox door a soft, flexable material with a lot of texture on it? How did you paint it?
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,634
Likes: 2
From: Macomb Twp, MI
D'oh sorry, I figured everyone would've seen it, yeh should've updated this thread too, haha. I still need to go over to mp3car and update my project thread I had in the show-off section, last time no one had anything nice to say so no one really replied to the thread lol, s'all good I know the previous version was pretty trashy looking.
The carpet used to be a real old and nasty grey color, the red carpet that's in there now is the new carpet that I got for Christmas. I originally wanted it to be a brighter red that would match the red painted parts better, but I'm really happy with the color and how it turned out. It's dark, so it's not overwhelming to have the red carpet, it's a nice change that is actually somewhat subtle, a lot of people in person haven't really noticed the carpet being aftermarket and a custom color.
For the glovebox, I think the 97+ glovebox is softer than the 93-96, mine's hard plastic. Sanding it was pretty easy, actually, the glovebox and the knee bolster were the two easiest pieces to do, being red and all. The black parts were the worst, they'd show every tiny defect.
Just to bring a couple of the pics over from that thread for people that might stumble across this via searches:
The carpet used to be a real old and nasty grey color, the red carpet that's in there now is the new carpet that I got for Christmas. I originally wanted it to be a brighter red that would match the red painted parts better, but I'm really happy with the color and how it turned out. It's dark, so it's not overwhelming to have the red carpet, it's a nice change that is actually somewhat subtle, a lot of people in person haven't really noticed the carpet being aftermarket and a custom color.
For the glovebox, I think the 97+ glovebox is softer than the 93-96, mine's hard plastic. Sanding it was pretty easy, actually, the glovebox and the knee bolster were the two easiest pieces to do, being red and all. The black parts were the worst, they'd show every tiny defect.
Just to bring a couple of the pics over from that thread for people that might stumble across this via searches:
Originally Posted by FIREHAWK#608
This on a 3.4 car right?
Heavy duty project.
Heavy duty project.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,634
Likes: 2
From: Macomb Twp, MI
lol it's all good, the trolls always make me laugh because they're just so pathetic.
Yeh, definitely a big project. The 383 is still in the plans, no clue when though. Some guys from my site gave me the idea to just go to a junkyard and see if I can gank an LT1 for under 500. If I can, I just might do that. ...Again, no clue when though.
Yeh, definitely a big project. The 383 is still in the plans, no clue when though. Some guys from my site gave me the idea to just go to a junkyard and see if I can gank an LT1 for under 500. If I can, I just might do that. ...Again, no clue when though.
Hey Meiss, are you still using the Opus 150 and is it still giving you battery problems?
I've had my Opus 150 for about 2+ weeks now and my battery seems fine during the week when I drive the car everyday, but on the weekend when it might set for 24 hours it will sometimes run down. Once to 9.2v in a 30 hour period. Sucks.
I was able to measure the amperage of the PC while off as well as in S3 standby and it was:
Off/hibernation - 190mA
S3 suspend - 280mA
These seem about normal from what I've heard through a few other members. My battery is going out though. Under load tests it went down to around 7 volts and took too long to recover which showed as bad. I'm going to be getting a new Optima red top next week and I'll see how it does.
I've had my Opus 150 for about 2+ weeks now and my battery seems fine during the week when I drive the car everyday, but on the weekend when it might set for 24 hours it will sometimes run down. Once to 9.2v in a 30 hour period. Sucks.
I was able to measure the amperage of the PC while off as well as in S3 standby and it was:
Off/hibernation - 190mA
S3 suspend - 280mA
These seem about normal from what I've heard through a few other members. My battery is going out though. Under load tests it went down to around 7 volts and took too long to recover which showed as bad. I'm going to be getting a new Optima red top next week and I'll see how it does.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,634
Likes: 2
From: Macomb Twp, MI
Hmm, I haven't had too many problems myself, surprisingly. I attributed my problems to be a bad alternator or some sort of short, as the more it happened the more I noticed it was after I would move my car in the driveway or what not and then leave it sit for over 24 hours. If I drove the car for a long time (or enough for the alternator to recharge it) I didn't have any problems. I've been driving my car pretty regularly for the past month or so when the weather is nice. About two months ago I bought one of the JimmyJam's Nitrous Accessories Ashtray Switchpanel. I hooked up one of the switches as an inline switch for the carPC, and when I do short bursts (moving my car around in the driveway or what not) of less than 5 minutes, I turn the switch off just because it'd be kinda more annoying than anything to have the PC boot up while I move the car, then wait for it to fully power down. So far, no problems anymore. The car hasn't sat more than two days, though. I still plan to add a yellow top as well as keeping the red top just so I can have the added juice to use.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,634
Likes: 2
From: Macomb Twp, MI
Gar talk about a jinx!!! Went to drive my car to work today and sure enough the blasted power supply won't boot up the carPC now. I've been trying to troubleshoot it without a multimeter ( my dad misplaced ours 
) and thus far I sometimes can get it to blink twice when I try to boot up, which means the J9 connector from the powersupply to the motherboard is wrong, BIOS settings, a motherboard or software crash/bug, or faulty power supply. BIOS is fine, power connector is securely in place, and the motherboard is perfectly fine it can't just crash when it's sitting there off. After checking to make sure the power connector is securely in place, unplugging the ATX plug and plugging it right back in, now I can't even get the blasted Opus' LED to blink at all. 
Such a pain for the "caddy of powersupplys."
) and thus far I sometimes can get it to blink twice when I try to boot up, which means the J9 connector from the powersupply to the motherboard is wrong, BIOS settings, a motherboard or software crash/bug, or faulty power supply. BIOS is fine, power connector is securely in place, and the motherboard is perfectly fine it can't just crash when it's sitting there off. After checking to make sure the power connector is securely in place, unplugging the ATX plug and plugging it right back in, now I can't even get the blasted Opus' LED to blink at all. Such a pain for the "caddy of powersupplys." Damn, I jinxed it!
Just yesterday I picked up this DMM from radio shack for $30. Has worked pretty good so far.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search
None of these DC-DC PSU's is perfect from what I can tell. I did find that my mobo draw while off was 190mA. Standby was 280mA. During startup the current draw saw 6.3A briefly and then settled at 4.6A while running. If you mod the Opus with a relay to turn off the 5vsb it will not keep the mobo powered up when off and the current consumption will drop to below 20mA. The only glitch is that with the mod, you lose the ability to use suspend.
I think I may add a switch inline with the main power, use suspend during the week when I'm driving the car and then hibernate and then click off the main power on the weekends since I don't drive it much. Right now my battery is no good, so I'm going to pick up a Optima red top this weekend and see if it has enough reserve power to keep it in suspend all weekend. I think I'll be good once I get the new battery and may not need to cut main power ever. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=74631
________________________________________
DFI LANParty UT nF3 250Gb Socket 754 -
AMD Sempron 3000+ 64bit Socket 754 CPU 1.8GHz, 128KB L2 Cache - about 30w max at stock 1.4v, has "Cool and Quiet" and 90nm core. -
Chaintech AV-710 soundcard for sweet, sweet, S/P DIF sound -
Opus 150
Just yesterday I picked up this DMM from radio shack for $30. Has worked pretty good so far.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search
None of these DC-DC PSU's is perfect from what I can tell. I did find that my mobo draw while off was 190mA. Standby was 280mA. During startup the current draw saw 6.3A briefly and then settled at 4.6A while running. If you mod the Opus with a relay to turn off the 5vsb it will not keep the mobo powered up when off and the current consumption will drop to below 20mA. The only glitch is that with the mod, you lose the ability to use suspend.
I think I may add a switch inline with the main power, use suspend during the week when I'm driving the car and then hibernate and then click off the main power on the weekends since I don't drive it much. Right now my battery is no good, so I'm going to pick up a Optima red top this weekend and see if it has enough reserve power to keep it in suspend all weekend. I think I'll be good once I get the new battery and may not need to cut main power ever. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=74631
________________________________________
DFI LANParty UT nF3 250Gb Socket 754 -
AMD Sempron 3000+ 64bit Socket 754 CPU 1.8GHz, 128KB L2 Cache - about 30w max at stock 1.4v, has "Cool and Quiet" and 90nm core. -
Chaintech AV-710 soundcard for sweet, sweet, S/P DIF sound -
Opus 150
Last edited by JasonWW; Apr 26, 2006 at 02:45 PM.