AbsolutHank

iTrader: (4)

Hey guys...I'm in the process of changing all the speakers over from the Monsoon system in my TA. I know they aren't going to put out the amount of bass I'm looking for. How much bass should I expect from an average sub/amp combo with the 10" stealthbox on the drivers side? Is it going to make the rearview mirror vibrate, the seat etc? I'm kinda looking for that...let me know...thanks!

Spineshank95

What sub and amp combination are you going with? If you have a GOOD sub and match it with a decent amp, you can get alot out of it. If you are looking at the enclosures on subthump, one thing you may want to look at is the Kicker L5 or L7. You can get them in a 10", but since they are square you have more cone area, so they will move more air. Well that is the idea behind them being square anyway. That and you can get them for a decent price.

GotV-8

iTrader: (15)

Mine didnt, with JL all around. I upgraded to two 10JL's now it hits.

BlkTARebel99

iTrader: (1)

My W7 makes my rearview shake a little when turned up.. and makes the back glass vibrate enough for my liking... custom fiberglass box though.

SICK WS 6

iTrader: (7)

I've got one Infinity Perfect 10 in my 04 Monte Carlo and even though it's a trunk car with a thick backseat it will still rattle things up front.
Can't wait until the new system gets here for it so I can move this thing over to the T/A.

DTPcamaroZ28

my MTX 8000 hits pretty good, but it really needs more power than what I am throwing at it, but it still hits an dsounds pretty good.

firebirdude

I wouldn't say you're gonna shake things up.... but it DOES bump a surprising amount. If you're actually looking to feel an impact on your body, you're gonna need a something a little stronger...

RelentleZ

iTrader: (4)

i wouldnt go with that type of box if youre lookin for bump. our cars are small. use it to your advantage... a single 10" sub sitting in the right spot will rattle your nuts off. consider placing it on the hump behind the rear seats. this will cause the sound to bounce all around especially off the rear windshield and thus sending the bump towards you. look for a speaker that has dual voice coils and an amp that will run strong at 2 ohms... with a 10" sub there is no need for a huge amp. look for something around 400-600watts. youll be satisfied and soon turning your bump down. and the car will rattle. good luck dude.

p.s. torque thrust is spelled wrong in your sig.

firebirdude

Why does everyone always say this?

And have you ever heard the stealth design in an F-body?

LSXRX7

You dont wont the sound to bounce all around if you wont the sound good and clean not much bass go with a singel 8in it takes less room easy to control ect... if you wont more go with 10in but takes more power and box space and put any box in the trunk facing the rear window this will give you the best acoustic sound wave to the front.

Josh_101

How would a Infinity basslink sub sound in an f-body? There 200watts so it should thump decently, right?

TA guy

iTrader: (1)

For any sub setup you need to carefully choose your components for the best results.

Step 1
Choose the box size you can live with, then find out how big the box is, and if you are going to go sealed or ported (in a stealth with a 10 you probibly will be going sealed)

Step 2
research and find out which subs will work properly in your box. There are lots of good subs out there, but even a great sub in the wrong box will sound like poop. You can also make some cheap subs sound great if they are in the right box. For example, a buddy of mine had a setup in his truck he wasn't happy with at all, just some cheap subs in a generic truckbox and a 200 watt amp. I took the subs he had, built a box sized for those subs specifically, and when I was done he had a system that made the mirrors dance. A proper box and sub combo is essential.

Also, higher power handling subs and a larger amp does not necessarily mean it will be louder than a cheap setup. Volume is a function of efficiency and power, and generally when comparing subs with otherwise similar charecteristics, the high power handling sub will be less efficient than lower rated sub. For example (and this is grossly simplified) an sub rated at 89db and fed 130 watts will produce 110db, while a sub rated at 86db will require 260 watts to reach 110db. So you will not see any real advantage of the "better" sub untill you push more than double the power that you would push the the cheap sub. I am not advocating either route, just trying to encourage you to do your homework.

Step 3
Choose your amp. Buy am amp that is a little more than your subs need. More subs are killed by underpowering them than overpowering them.


Of course you can skip all these steps if you can find someone else with a system you like and buy the same thing.

2MuchRiceMakesMeSick

If your wanting really loud sound (mirror shaking, seat shaking, etc...) going with two 12s will be a better option for you.

todddchi

iTrader: (3)

A dual 10" or 12" bandpass box in the hatch is the poor man's way to loudness, but you lose your t-top storage area.

A solid 10" stealth box, well powered, would provide more bass than is necessary for accurate music. You'll feel it but it won't be totally moving the mirror.

If you really want to have obnoxious thump then don't bother with the 10"/stealth. Jump right into a couple 12's and be done with it. Don't deny what it is you really want.

Having said that our cars are very easy to make loud bass in due to the hatch reineforcement. So if you were happy with a single 10" in the trunk of a different car or a SUV, for example... you'd be happy with a 10" in a f-bod for sure.

YOOFORMULA

iTrader: (6)

I run a stealthbox in the driver side hatch with an S10L7 and an ESX800D and my rear view and side mirrors shake violently, so I am very pleased with mine for now.

01 Red WS6

iTrader: (4)

You have an awesome car