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Certainly a bypass can be done without a key. It just takes longer because you have to try each of the standard resistor values until you get to the one that matches. There are 15 different values on earlier vehicles like yours - only 14 of those were used in later vehicles.
Bear in mind that the key you get with the used module will almost certainly not work with your ignition. You'll have to measure the resistance on the pellet and then get a new key cut that matches the cuts of your original but has the resistance value of the new module. That may not be cheap - I've heard of dealers charging $80 or more for a new key.
Thanks, but how do I measure the resistance if I don't have any key?
Are you saying that, besides the different VATS values, every key of those 15 has its peculiar cut?
You don't measure the resistance - you can't without a key. But there are only 15 different resistance values used by the system so you just get those 15 resistors, access the VATS connector under the dash, try the first resistor and see if it makes the security light go out and allows the car to start. If not, move on to trying the second resistor and so on until you get to the one that works.
Yes, of course the keys have different cuts just like keys that don't have a resistor in them. The cuts on the key are what engage the tumblers in the ignition cylinder and allow it to physically turn to the run and start positions. The resistor is just an added electrical safeguard that prevents the car from starting if a thief broke or removed the ignition cylinder (usually with a slide hammer) so they could turn it with just a screwdriver. So what you need is to get a new key cut to match your existing key (so that it will turn the lock) but using a key blank that has the built-in resistor that matches the resistance of the key you get with the new module.
You don't measure the resistance - you can't without a key. But there are only 15 different resistance values used by the system so you just get those 15 resistors, access the VATS connector under the dash, try the first resistor and see if it makes the security light go out and allows the car to start. If not, move on to trying the second resistor and so on until you get to the one that works.
Yes, of course the keys have different cuts just like keys that don't have a resistor in them. The cuts on the key are what engage the tumblers in the ignition cylinder and allow it to physically turn to the run and start positions. The resistor is just an added electrical safeguard that prevents the car from starting if a thief broke or removed the ignition cylinder (usually with a slide hammer) so they could turn it with just a screwdriver. So what you need is to get a new key cut to match your existing key (so that it will turn the lock) but using a key blank that has the built-in resistor that matches the resistance of the key you get with the new module.
Alright, but not having an original key to copy, I guess I'll need to get a new ignition cylinder with key template (like acdelco D1453C) so I can cut the new key (that I get after finding out the resistance value) accordingly... Thanks a lot for your help
You must be reading your meter wrong - there is no such resistance in the assigned chips. You probably have 1460 ohms which would be very close (within tolerance) for code #6 (1470 ohms).
Good Morning guys. I hope I am in the right area for this issue i am having its the first time i have been on a fourm. But any way my father just purchased this bird down at the local drag strip with now motor. Our issue is it did not come with the keys. So i have been on the phone with tthe two local dealers trying to see if they can find the key code for me butt just like my luck goes they could not find it me at all. I did manage to get the build sheet of the bird with all the RPO codes. So what is the best way to track this code down. is there a code on the acutal barrel lock so he can get it cut that way or is there a way to track this key code? Thank you guys so much!!! I cant wait to become a part of this group.
I'm afraid there are no other ways to get the code. The code was provided on little tags that came with the original keys, but those are almost invariably long lost by now. However, the dealer should be able to get the code using the VIN. I would try another dealer - many dealers don't want to bother going to the trouble of getting the code from the VIN, so you'll have to find one more focused on customer service.
Without the original key to measure for the pellet resistance, your other option is to try all the possible values until you find the correct one. Fortunately, there are only 15 different values so it's not an impossible task. In fact, you can buy VATS boxes that have all possible combinations built-in and controlled by a set of DIP switches - just plug it into the VATS wires under the steering column and try each value in turn by changing the DIP switches. One I'm familiar with is made by DEI (the makers of Viper alarm systems), part number 20402. I think DEI has discontinued it but it's still available online in places like ebay for about $30. Another is the Gator VATS Bypass Module (their part number VBM054). It is available online for about $36 from the manufacturer, Gator Tools. Either one will have you up and running in about 10 minutes.
You could do it yourself by buying all the resistors needed to create each of the 15 values (resistors are dirt cheap) and then trying each combination until you find the one that works. This is the least expensive option but a lot more work and a lot more time scrunched under the steering column.
Here is a chart of all the values and what resistors are necessary (note that almost all require combinations of two resistors to make the correct value):
The VATS number and corresponding resistance is shown in the shaded areas. Below each is the combination of standard resistors needed to make the value and the percentage that the resulting value is off from the expected value. All of the combinations listed are well within the tolerance allowed by VATS. Combinations with a + are wired in series (end to end) while combinations with || are wired in parallel (side by side with ends connected together).
Last edited by WhiteBird00; 12-26-2023 at 10:13 AM.
No. It doesn't work on GM models even when they have a simple resistor system like f-bodies (VATS, PassKey, etc.) - you have to measure the resistor (in the key), the ignition circuit is just simple wiring with no built-in resistor. And as far as I know, Ford has never used a simple resistor system in any of their vehicles.
ditto to that only there are 15 chip codes. Fixed the problem thanks to HP tuners assisting with a little troubleshooting. Turned out not to be anything to do with VATS at all. Key was good when the dealer tested it and I disabled VATS to see if it made any difference. It didn't. I did bypass the switch below the clutch, and that wasn't it. It appeared to be a switch above the clutch that wasn't adjusted correctly. i guess anything is possible when the car sits for 2 years
So now the speedo is acting like the tach and the tach doesn't move at all. i am thoroughly confused now. Any ideas?
What did you do about the speedo problem?
I’m having a similar problem.
Thanks
05-18-2017, 10:11 AM
