The day has come...help me...
The day has come...help me... Hey all, I have finally (almost) decided on what I want to with the audio in my car. After reading many and many posts and the stickys on this website and fbodyaudio.com I have put together the system. I just would like a few short or long comments and/or advice on it.
FRONTS
Link
Infinity Kappa 60.7CS 6-1/2" Component System
6-1/2" 2-Way Coaxial Car Audio Loudspeaker Component System
RMS Power Handling: 90 watts
Plus One woven-glas-fiber woofer cone looks great and sounds even better
1" Edge-driven MMD-Dome tweeter
SAILS
Link
Infinity Kappa 62.7i 6-1/2" 2-Way
6-1/2" 2-Way Coaxial Car Audio Loudspeakers
RMS Power Handling: 75 watts
Plus One woven-glas-fiber woofer cone looks great and sounds even better
AMP FOR BOTH SETS
Link
Hifonics Titan TX8805
4-Channel Car Amplifier
4 Channel Class A/B Amplifier
RMS Power Handling:
110 watts x 4 chan. @ 4 ohms
220 watts x 4 chan. @ 2 ohms
440 watts x 2 chan. @ 4 ohms (Bridged)
Complementary High-Speed MOSFET Output Devices
HEADUNIT
Pioneer DEH-P7700MP
Link
CD receiver with built-in amplifier (22 watts RMS/50 peak x 4 channels)
detachable, fold-down face with Organic EL display and soft-key variable controls
Easy EQ — five preset EQ curves with 3-band tone adjustment
plays CDs, CD-Rs, and CD-RWs including discs loaded with MP3, WMA, and AAC files (except tracks purchased at the iTunes music store)
I have heard and like Infinity's line of speakers and components, and have played with the features of the Pioneer deck. I like all and know its what I like that matters, but I would just like the opinions of you all on if this setup will work, how durable it is, and how long it will last, etc....any advice will help....
thanks,
-Philip
FRONTS
Link
Infinity Kappa 60.7CS 6-1/2" Component System
6-1/2" 2-Way Coaxial Car Audio Loudspeaker Component System
RMS Power Handling: 90 watts
Plus One woven-glas-fiber woofer cone looks great and sounds even better
1" Edge-driven MMD-Dome tweeter
SAILS
Link
Infinity Kappa 62.7i 6-1/2" 2-Way
6-1/2" 2-Way Coaxial Car Audio Loudspeakers
RMS Power Handling: 75 watts
Plus One woven-glas-fiber woofer cone looks great and sounds even better
AMP FOR BOTH SETS
Link
Hifonics Titan TX8805
4-Channel Car Amplifier
4 Channel Class A/B Amplifier
RMS Power Handling:
110 watts x 4 chan. @ 4 ohms
220 watts x 4 chan. @ 2 ohms
440 watts x 2 chan. @ 4 ohms (Bridged)
Complementary High-Speed MOSFET Output Devices
HEADUNIT
Pioneer DEH-P7700MP
Link
CD receiver with built-in amplifier (22 watts RMS/50 peak x 4 channels)
detachable, fold-down face with Organic EL display and soft-key variable controls
Easy EQ — five preset EQ curves with 3-band tone adjustment
plays CDs, CD-Rs, and CD-RWs including discs loaded with MP3, WMA, and AAC files (except tracks purchased at the iTunes music store)
I have heard and like Infinity's line of speakers and components, and have played with the features of the Pioneer deck. I like all and know its what I like that matters, but I would just like the opinions of you all on if this setup will work, how durable it is, and how long it will last, etc....any advice will help....
thanks,
-Philip
I choose Hifonics amps due to a friend using 2 10 inch subs powered by a Hifonics amp....sounds good and a local car audio installer said Hifonics are a good choice over my last choice of an audiobahn amp due to noise, etc....What problems/dislikes of Hifonics amps have you had with in the past?
Thanks,
-Philip
Thanks,
-Philip
think this one is better Hey 2MuchRiceMakesMeSick and others who can help, what do yall think about this amp? My previous amp in my old truck was an mtx 4250d....was awesome, but ran my sub, not components. Any advice or comments would help. Thanks
-Philip
MTX 404
-Philip
MTX 404
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The only thing I can bring up is where's the sub? Going the route of components and seperate amplification speaks of wanting sound quality, and having a tight sub is key to good music reproduction. Every type of music benefits from having proper bass reproduction.
6.5" driver's aren't really designed to hold bass, and removing them from those duties will clean up your midbass and midrange by a good amount, lower the power requirements from those drivers, and help everything stay focused on what it is meant to do.
For an conservative SQ focused setup like yours I would recommend going with a 4+1 or 4+2 amp and adding a SVC or DVC sub in a stealth box. Using a 5 or 6 channel amp limits your options somewhat, but for a conservative (not a bass head) system they can fit the bill quite nicely. With the stealth box option there's really no reason to make sacrifices in function or t-top access, so it should fit in nicely with your plan.
6.5" driver's aren't really designed to hold bass, and removing them from those duties will clean up your midbass and midrange by a good amount, lower the power requirements from those drivers, and help everything stay focused on what it is meant to do.
For an conservative SQ focused setup like yours I would recommend going with a 4+1 or 4+2 amp and adding a SVC or DVC sub in a stealth box. Using a 5 or 6 channel amp limits your options somewhat, but for a conservative (not a bass head) system they can fit the bill quite nicely. With the stealth box option there's really no reason to make sacrifices in function or t-top access, so it should fit in nicely with your plan.
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Verdad Gallardo So Todd, If im understanding correctly, you say ditch the sail panel 6.5s and stick with the components in the front and add a 10 inch sub for the back powered by a 4 channel amp? I wasnt planning nor wanting to add a sub at this moment, mostly due to me wanting to get a seperate Class D mono amp to power the sub and a 4 channel amp to power the speakers. Im not going for a lot of bass, but more cleaning up the sound of the setup and while still having some bass (the 6.5s and front 6.5s from the components). If with just running the front components and the 10 inch in the back and deleting the 4s in the trunk and 6.5s in the sails will be enough highs and mids and the sub taking care of the lows, I will look at going that direction.
ps (theres an endless amount of research needed to get the best setup and learn all the tricks of car audio, I thought I researched enough...I was wrong ha)
-Philip
ps (theres an endless amount of research needed to get the best setup and learn all the tricks of car audio, I thought I researched enough...I was wrong ha)
-Philip
Hi Todd
What i would like to do is use the stock head and amp unit. Add a DVC sub in a stealth box. I would move the wires from one sail to the DVC sub. Take the wires from the back speakers and move them to the sails and replace all four speakers with 6 1/2 full range speakers. I know all the speakers that to have to correct ohms. And the sub would have to be a midbass. Will this work????
What i would like to do is use the stock head and amp unit. Add a DVC sub in a stealth box. I would move the wires from one sail to the DVC sub. Take the wires from the back speakers and move them to the sails and replace all four speakers with 6 1/2 full range speakers. I know all the speakers that to have to correct ohms. And the sub would have to be a midbass. Will this work????
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 297
Likes: 1
From: Chicago
I chose to pass on the infinity's when I did my stereo.
I went ahead and ordered a set from crutchfield (to use in the sail panel area.. wrong move). However, I did get a change to install them and listen.
The seemed kind of cheesey... esp for being the kappa series. The basket frame was stamped steel (or aluminum, or painted steel). The speaker itself looked cheaply made.
Sound wise, they were highly sensitive (probably running them thru a 85x2 amp didn't help), and disproportionate to the fronts (see sig for full componen list).
For the type of music I listen to (mainly newage and dance), the speakers seemed too bright.
Good luck on your choices.
PS. I would definitely not run just the fronts and a sub. The sound is incomplete IMO. With just the midbass in the sail panel area, the sound is more more complete, more around you..
I went ahead and ordered a set from crutchfield (to use in the sail panel area.. wrong move). However, I did get a change to install them and listen.
The seemed kind of cheesey... esp for being the kappa series. The basket frame was stamped steel (or aluminum, or painted steel). The speaker itself looked cheaply made.
Sound wise, they were highly sensitive (probably running them thru a 85x2 amp didn't help), and disproportionate to the fronts (see sig for full componen list).
For the type of music I listen to (mainly newage and dance), the speakers seemed too bright.
Good luck on your choices.
PS. I would definitely not run just the fronts and a sub. The sound is incomplete IMO. With just the midbass in the sail panel area, the sound is more more complete, more around you..
