98z2006

Thanks, i have some of those. do you know anything about the HVAC lighting i was switching out mine to so t1.5 LED lights if that means anything to you and suddenly i have no instrument - tach, speed, oil, etc. lights. i,ve checked my fuses over and over after each time i do something blew a 20 and a 5 once when i used my multimeter to find some power to see if it was jus the bulbs. i pulled my power from my fog light switch - brown wire. well out of ideas would help if i had a wiring schematic cause i have no power to the light socket and i would like to fix it while my whole dash is tore out. thanks again ill do my lighting mod while im in there.

6LITEREATER

iTrader: (56)

Or you could have just done what I do, slightly pull up on the ebrake (not enough to engage it but enough to kill power to he headlights)....

CJDZ24_Z28

iTrader: (75)

I did mine in like 3 min lol I poped off the light sensor and stuck a end of a resistor in each end. Cost me $0.99 and I still have my DRLS just no gay autoheadlamps

6LITEREATER

iTrader: (56)

Hmmm.... I don't want to convert back to manual control because I replaced my switch with this:



But I could run a switch that connects those two wires and then if I ever just wanted to kill the lights at night :cough: COPS :cough: and just drive off my foglights:



I could do it

Then again I am in LA, I can't run from the Cops....

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

You could have done it even cheaper with just a piece of wire instead of a resistor. There is no reason to put any resistance in the circuit - the system reads zero resistance as full daylight so the headlights don't go on. Using the scotchlock connector is still the fastest and easiest way to do it and still have it easily reversible later.