Need help picking some good speakers.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 717
Likes: 0
From: Georgetown, DE
I like Alpines, but if you're keeping the stock head unit and amplifier, I'd stay with the S-series.
ClemsonDave is right, for a T/A use components for the doors. SInce the amp is already crossed for the woofer, you'll only need the crossover for the tweeter side.
Also, the stock sail panel speakers have 2 pairs of wires to each because they are dual voice coil. You only need to wire your replacements to 1 pair of wires only.
I'm not sure why GM used different speakers in the Camaros than the ones in the Firebirds. It makes sense that convertables have different sail speakers altogether. Due to both space restrictions and the fact that there is no rear hatch area speakers.
I also agree with ClemsonDave that you should go to a local retailer and listen to different speakers. Everyone has different tastes, and you want what sounds good to you, not what sounds good to any of us fools.
ClemsonDave is right, for a T/A use components for the doors. SInce the amp is already crossed for the woofer, you'll only need the crossover for the tweeter side.
Also, the stock sail panel speakers have 2 pairs of wires to each because they are dual voice coil. You only need to wire your replacements to 1 pair of wires only.
I'm not sure why GM used different speakers in the Camaros than the ones in the Firebirds. It makes sense that convertables have different sail speakers altogether. Due to both space restrictions and the fact that there is no rear hatch area speakers.
I also agree with ClemsonDave that you should go to a local retailer and listen to different speakers. Everyone has different tastes, and you want what sounds good to you, not what sounds good to any of us fools.
Im in the same boat as okie02,I am keeping the stock HU and amp. I just bought the sps-170a's 6 1/2s for the doors, and will be buying the SPS-1005 tweeters, also for the door.
Im just curious as to what people have put in the same type of car and thought it sounded good, as I am just looking for something at least as good as stock...
I need to know what would be a good speaker for the sail panels too...
help us out guys
Im just curious as to what people have put in the same type of car and thought it sounded good, as I am just looking for something at least as good as stock...
I need to know what would be a good speaker for the sail panels too...
help us out guys
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 717
Likes: 0
From: Georgetown, DE
I just bought Pioneer TS-M7PRS midbasses for my SS. I haven't had a chance to install them yet. I also like the Audiobahn AMD60Q's. The Pioneers are a bit pricey ($185) for use with the stock system. I thought I'd try them anyway.
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: Long Beach, CA
Originally Posted by HiTechGent
I just bought Pioneer TS-M7PRS midbasses for my SS. I haven't had a chance to install them yet. I also like the Audiobahn AMD60Q's. The Pioneers are a bit pricey ($185) for use with the stock system. I thought I'd try them anyway.
lemme know how those sound. I want to be sure before I buy new midbasses for the sails.
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
From: USA
Originally Posted by HiTechGent
I like Alpines, but if you're keeping the stock head unit and amplifier, I'd stay with the S-series.
ClemsonDave is right, for a T/A use components for the doors. SInce the amp is already crossed for the woofer, you'll only need the crossover for the tweeter side.
Also, the stock sail panel speakers have 2 pairs of wires to each because they are dual voice coil. You only need to wire your replacements to 1 pair of wires only.
I'm not sure why GM used different speakers in the Camaros than the ones in the Firebirds. It makes sense that convertables have different sail speakers altogether. Due to both space restrictions and the fact that there is no rear hatch area speakers.
I also agree with ClemsonDave that you should go to a local retailer and listen to different speakers. Everyone has different tastes, and you want what sounds good to you, not what sounds good to any of us fools.
ClemsonDave is right, for a T/A use components for the doors. SInce the amp is already crossed for the woofer, you'll only need the crossover for the tweeter side.
Also, the stock sail panel speakers have 2 pairs of wires to each because they are dual voice coil. You only need to wire your replacements to 1 pair of wires only.
I'm not sure why GM used different speakers in the Camaros than the ones in the Firebirds. It makes sense that convertables have different sail speakers altogether. Due to both space restrictions and the fact that there is no rear hatch area speakers.
I also agree with ClemsonDave that you should go to a local retailer and listen to different speakers. Everyone has different tastes, and you want what sounds good to you, not what sounds good to any of us fools.
So 2 sets of wires going to the sail panel subs... meaning the subs are dual 4-ohm?
(which would convert to 2ohm for single-coil subs)
Also, did you get your subs? How was the mounting depth - did they fit?
I've considered these:
http://www.edesignaudio.com/product....=Specs&cur=USD
But am unsure as to the mounting depth.
Originally Posted by Second_Infinity
So 2 sets of wires going to the sail panel subs... meaning the subs are dual 4-ohm?
(which would convert to 2ohm for single-coil subs)
But am unsure as to the mounting depth.
(which would convert to 2ohm for single-coil subs)
But am unsure as to the mounting depth.
Heres a wiring tuturial for you:
http://www.phoenixgold.com/2004/wiringtutorial.html
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
From: USA
Yes I understand how to wire subs.
People are saying to "buy a 2ohm sub so it'll fit the monsoon's output," but finding out that there are 4 wires (Firebird non-vert) makes me think any 4ohm DVC would fit the bill - since it can be wired to 2ohm.
I just took out an Eclipse 10" 4ohm DVC wired at 2ohm for a 720rms amp (brain rattling) - need the space back for the t-tops. Now I'm looking to replace the blown sail panel subs with something that won't blow so quickly.
People are saying to "buy a 2ohm sub so it'll fit the monsoon's output," but finding out that there are 4 wires (Firebird non-vert) makes me think any 4ohm DVC would fit the bill - since it can be wired to 2ohm.
I just took out an Eclipse 10" 4ohm DVC wired at 2ohm for a 720rms amp (brain rattling) - need the space back for the t-tops. Now I'm looking to replace the blown sail panel subs with something that won't blow so quickly.
Ah. I actualy had a blown speaker as well and just said the hell with it and replaced the whole system. Lets face it the monsoon isnt the best sounding system so it was time for an upgrade. Much like the rest of my car got ..lol
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
From: USA
Yeah it's not great, but sufficient - if the stupid subs would hold out. It's also interesting how the car handles differently when you remove as little as 50lbs of equipment from the trunk! This is one reason I may not put the big sub back in.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 717
Likes: 0
From: Georgetown, DE
Originally Posted by Second_Infinity
Yes I understand how to wire subs.
People are saying to "buy a 2ohm sub so it'll fit the monsoon's output," but finding out that there are 4 wires (Firebird non-vert) makes me think any 4ohm DVC would fit the bill - since it can be wired to 2ohm.
I just took out an Eclipse 10" 4ohm DVC wired at 2ohm for a 720rms amp (brain rattling) - need the space back for the t-tops. Now I'm looking to replace the blown sail panel subs with something that won't blow so quickly.
People are saying to "buy a 2ohm sub so it'll fit the monsoon's output," but finding out that there are 4 wires (Firebird non-vert) makes me think any 4ohm DVC would fit the bill - since it can be wired to 2ohm.
I just took out an Eclipse 10" 4ohm DVC wired at 2ohm for a 720rms amp (brain rattling) - need the space back for the t-tops. Now I'm looking to replace the blown sail panel subs with something that won't blow so quickly.
I'm not an expert on speaker physics, but I do earn a living as an electrical engineer. What I do know understand about electronics and physics leads me to believe that there is little advantage to 2ohm impedance when talking about small speakers such as the 6.75" midbasses in the Monsoon system. From what I can see, the same goes for DVC 6.75" speakers (as if you could find many of them).
My recommendation has always been to replace Monsoon speakers with a decent mid-priced off-the-shelf speaker with high sensitivity and good frequency response.
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
From: USA
Originally Posted by HiTechGent
My recommendation has always been to replace Monsoon speakers with a decent mid-priced off-the-shelf speaker with high sensitivity and good frequency response.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 717
Likes: 0
From: Georgetown, DE
On paper, my second choice for a replacement sail midbass is the Audiobahn AMD60Q's which can be had for as low as $80 a pair.
Unfortunately, I've not actually heard these. And I have not yet seen a post from someone who has installed these.
Unfortunately, I've not actually heard these. And I have not yet seen a post from someone who has installed these.
Originally Posted by clemsondave
Whatever speakers you get, spend an extra $200 and get a half way decent head unit. You can buy $2k speakers, but they will still sound like crap with the stock HU.
dont worry about the HU, just run the speakers off a amp.
one set of components up front off a amp and a decent HU is all you need. then you can add a 10 or 12in sub for your liking.
also dont worry about the stock wiring, run all new wires.
Originally Posted by clemsondave
Whatever speakers you get, spend an extra $200 and get a half way decent head unit. You can buy $2k speakers, but they will still sound like crap with the stock HU.
Whatever speakers you get, spend an extra $200 and get a half way decent head unit. You can buy $2k speakers, but they will still sound like crap with the stock HU.
