Replacing whole system
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2006
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Replacing whole system I am new to car audio, so any input on this would we appreciated, and sorry if I ask dumb questions.
I have a 98 firebird with the monsoon sytem, and a single alpine 12" type E sub and amp.
I want to replace the headunit, amp, front and rear speakers (may replace the sail pannel 6.5 subs later, im not looking for too much base, i mostly listen to rock music), and i work at best buy so i would like to purchase it all from there.
For head unit im thinking of the Alpine CDA-9856
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....&skuId=7652382
For front speakers I would like to get the Alpine SPR-17LS
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....&skuId=6983507
Ive seen people fit 5x7s in for the rear pannel, after cutting the plastic to make it fit, so im thinking of trying to put in Alpine SPR-57LP
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....&skuId=6991026
As for the amp im considering the Rockford Fosgate P4004
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....&skuId=6250451
Im not sure if this will all work together and sound good together.
The amp is 50 Rms x 4 at 4 ohms
the front speakers go up to 70 rms at 4 ohms
the rear 5x7 speakers go up to 40 rms at 4 ohms
the headunit has 3 pre-outs so i could use both amps. I wouldnt have anything to power the 6.5 subs, im guessing it wouldnt work well trying to power them through the headunit. Would it be noticable in terms of sound quality not having the 6.5s?
I have a 98 firebird with the monsoon sytem, and a single alpine 12" type E sub and amp.
I want to replace the headunit, amp, front and rear speakers (may replace the sail pannel 6.5 subs later, im not looking for too much base, i mostly listen to rock music), and i work at best buy so i would like to purchase it all from there.
For head unit im thinking of the Alpine CDA-9856
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....&skuId=7652382
For front speakers I would like to get the Alpine SPR-17LS
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....&skuId=6983507
Ive seen people fit 5x7s in for the rear pannel, after cutting the plastic to make it fit, so im thinking of trying to put in Alpine SPR-57LP
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....&skuId=6991026
As for the amp im considering the Rockford Fosgate P4004
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....&skuId=6250451
Im not sure if this will all work together and sound good together.
The amp is 50 Rms x 4 at 4 ohms
the front speakers go up to 70 rms at 4 ohms
the rear 5x7 speakers go up to 40 rms at 4 ohms
the headunit has 3 pre-outs so i could use both amps. I wouldnt have anything to power the 6.5 subs, im guessing it wouldnt work well trying to power them through the headunit. Would it be noticable in terms of sound quality not having the 6.5s?
What's your discount? BB's prices are pretty high.
- Alpine is a fine choice for a head unit. Probably the best of what BB has anyways. If you dont plan on using an ipod some stores are clearing out 9845's for $119.
- I think the front speakers are overkill, or at least not a good choice for that amount of money. $250 (even considering your discount) is ALOT to spend on front speakers. If you are looking to spend ~$200 on your front speakers there are better choices than Alpine. Speakers are very subjective though, go with what you like. I prefer MB Quarts, or for low cost, JBL's. JBL's tend to have very strong tweeters so for a low dollar speaker running with subs I like them alot.
- I also wouldn't bother with rear speakers at all, or if you really want rear fill, just stick with a pair of 4x6's. All they are doing is rear fill so there's no point in hassling with going to 5x7's, you don't need driver size in that location.
- Completely disconnect and/or remove the factory sail panel subs.
- Amp is a fine choice if you go with front and rears, but again a little pricey. I think there are better deals than that. If you decide to use just fronts go with a smaller 2 channel amp, or bridge 1 set of outputs and run the amp in 2+1 mode to drop your sub amp.
- Keep your existing amp and sub amp, don't use head unit power for anything.
- Alpine is a fine choice for a head unit. Probably the best of what BB has anyways. If you dont plan on using an ipod some stores are clearing out 9845's for $119.
- I think the front speakers are overkill, or at least not a good choice for that amount of money. $250 (even considering your discount) is ALOT to spend on front speakers. If you are looking to spend ~$200 on your front speakers there are better choices than Alpine. Speakers are very subjective though, go with what you like. I prefer MB Quarts, or for low cost, JBL's. JBL's tend to have very strong tweeters so for a low dollar speaker running with subs I like them alot.
- I also wouldn't bother with rear speakers at all, or if you really want rear fill, just stick with a pair of 4x6's. All they are doing is rear fill so there's no point in hassling with going to 5x7's, you don't need driver size in that location.
- Completely disconnect and/or remove the factory sail panel subs.
- Amp is a fine choice if you go with front and rears, but again a little pricey. I think there are better deals than that. If you decide to use just fronts go with a smaller 2 channel amp, or bridge 1 set of outputs and run the amp in 2+1 mode to drop your sub amp.
- Keep your existing amp and sub amp, don't use head unit power for anything.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 44
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Thanks very much for the input, thats exactly the kind of information i was lookig for.
my discount is pretty good depending on how much stuff is marked up, car audio being fairly marked up, i can save quite a bit (almost half of on some of it, which is why i perfer to get something bestbuy has). Money is also a concern so if i can get similar sound and not have to save up as much, that would be great. Im going to work now but when i get back i will look into some of those, although im not sure if best buy carys many of those.
my discount is pretty good depending on how much stuff is marked up, car audio being fairly marked up, i can save quite a bit (almost half of on some of it, which is why i perfer to get something bestbuy has). Money is also a concern so if i can get similar sound and not have to save up as much, that would be great. Im going to work now but when i get back i will look into some of those, although im not sure if best buy carys many of those.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 44
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Also, one of the reasons i picked those front speakers is that they are component, so they have the external tweeter. The monsoon system also has these built into the door, so i could take advantage at that. It will be a little while before i can save up but im going to look into alternatives while I wait.
Many people are very happy with:
- A $150-200 range head unit with MP3 capability an AUX input to use with a portable player, and some form of high pass filter to keep bass out of your regular speakers.
- 4 medium grade coaxials ($50-80 a pair) ran off the head unit power with a high-pass crossover setting either from the head unit or using bass blockers at the speakers.
- Removing the factory sail panel subs and stuffing fiberfill down the holes.
- Your existing sub and amp for bass.
With your discount you could pull this off for about $200 probably, and it would sound very good. You might be very happy with it especially considering spending 200 instead of 800.
You don't need a lot of power for mids and highs. It helps, but if you aren't using your coaxials for bass, the head unit power can go a long way with good coaxials and proper crossover settings.
You might want to consider trying the four speakers with bass control before dumping the money on the amp.
I'd disconnect the factory sail subs and hatch speakers immediately (no need for them) and get your front speakers first.
Then I'd get your head unit.
Then I'd decide if you want to go with a seperate amp for the mains speakers and add rear fill speakers at this point if you want rear fill.
90% of people would be happy after coaxials and the head unit, considering you already have a sub and sub amp.
- A $150-200 range head unit with MP3 capability an AUX input to use with a portable player, and some form of high pass filter to keep bass out of your regular speakers.
- 4 medium grade coaxials ($50-80 a pair) ran off the head unit power with a high-pass crossover setting either from the head unit or using bass blockers at the speakers.
- Removing the factory sail panel subs and stuffing fiberfill down the holes.
- Your existing sub and amp for bass.
With your discount you could pull this off for about $200 probably, and it would sound very good. You might be very happy with it especially considering spending 200 instead of 800.
You don't need a lot of power for mids and highs. It helps, but if you aren't using your coaxials for bass, the head unit power can go a long way with good coaxials and proper crossover settings.
You might want to consider trying the four speakers with bass control before dumping the money on the amp.
I'd disconnect the factory sail subs and hatch speakers immediately (no need for them) and get your front speakers first.
Then I'd get your head unit.
Then I'd decide if you want to go with a seperate amp for the mains speakers and add rear fill speakers at this point if you want rear fill.
90% of people would be happy after coaxials and the head unit, considering you already have a sub and sub amp.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Georgetown, DE
(Disclaimer: Opinions are like a**holes, everyone has one, and most of them stink)
After swapping the door speakers in my SS with SPS-170A's, I'm very fond of the alpine speakers. I do have a couple of questions.
1. Why R-Series instead of the S-Series. THe Alpine website claims the R-series has better bass response, but you already have a seperate sub and amplifier for bass. The S-series are less expensive and more efficient (90dB/W/m as opposed to 87dB/W/m).
2. Why put 5x7" speakers in the rear hatch instead of 6.5" speakers in the sail panels? I don't know, but I would think speakers facing inward and forward (sail panels) would sound cleaner than speakers facing up and reflected forward off the rear window (rear hatch).
If I were configuring this system, I'd go with SPS-171A components in both the doors and the sail panels.
FYI: Unless you get a really incredible employee discount, you can probably save money shopping around on the net. (Example: $190+shipping for P4004 Amplifier vs. $310 list price at Best Buy)
After swapping the door speakers in my SS with SPS-170A's, I'm very fond of the alpine speakers. I do have a couple of questions.
1. Why R-Series instead of the S-Series. THe Alpine website claims the R-series has better bass response, but you already have a seperate sub and amplifier for bass. The S-series are less expensive and more efficient (90dB/W/m as opposed to 87dB/W/m).
2. Why put 5x7" speakers in the rear hatch instead of 6.5" speakers in the sail panels? I don't know, but I would think speakers facing inward and forward (sail panels) would sound cleaner than speakers facing up and reflected forward off the rear window (rear hatch).
If I were configuring this system, I'd go with SPS-171A components in both the doors and the sail panels.
FYI: Unless you get a really incredible employee discount, you can probably save money shopping around on the net. (Example: $190+shipping for P4004 Amplifier vs. $310 list price at Best Buy)
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Im looking to have really good sound, i also like alpine after puttting a alpine headunit and speakers in my old car. My discount is cost + 5%, so pretty much what best buy gets it for. Would 6.5s in the sail pannel be overkill for people sitting in the back seat, since the speakers would be very close to their ears.
Thank you all for your oppinions
Thank you all for your oppinions
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Originally Posted by todddchi
Many people are very happy with:
- A $150-200 range head unit with MP3 capability an AUX input to use with a portable player, and some form of high pass filter to keep bass out of your regular speakers.
- 4 medium grade coaxials ($50-80 a pair) ran off the head unit power with a high-pass crossover setting either from the head unit or using bass blockers at the speakers.
- Removing the factory sail panel subs and stuffing fiberfill down the holes.
- Your existing sub and amp for bass.
With your discount you could pull this off for about $200 probably, and it would sound very good. You might be very happy with it especially considering spending 200 instead of 800.
You don't need a lot of power for mids and highs. It helps, but if you aren't using your coaxials for bass, the head unit power can go a long way with good coaxials and proper crossover settings.
You might want to consider trying the four speakers with bass control before dumping the money on the amp.
I'd disconnect the factory sail subs and hatch speakers immediately (no need for them) and get your front speakers first.
Then I'd get your head unit.
Then I'd decide if you want to go with a seperate amp for the mains speakers and add rear fill speakers at this point if you want rear fill.
90% of people would be happy after coaxials and the head unit, considering you already have a sub and sub amp.
- A $150-200 range head unit with MP3 capability an AUX input to use with a portable player, and some form of high pass filter to keep bass out of your regular speakers.
- 4 medium grade coaxials ($50-80 a pair) ran off the head unit power with a high-pass crossover setting either from the head unit or using bass blockers at the speakers.
- Removing the factory sail panel subs and stuffing fiberfill down the holes.
- Your existing sub and amp for bass.
With your discount you could pull this off for about $200 probably, and it would sound very good. You might be very happy with it especially considering spending 200 instead of 800.
You don't need a lot of power for mids and highs. It helps, but if you aren't using your coaxials for bass, the head unit power can go a long way with good coaxials and proper crossover settings.
You might want to consider trying the four speakers with bass control before dumping the money on the amp.
I'd disconnect the factory sail subs and hatch speakers immediately (no need for them) and get your front speakers first.
Then I'd get your head unit.
Then I'd decide if you want to go with a seperate amp for the mains speakers and add rear fill speakers at this point if you want rear fill.
90% of people would be happy after coaxials and the head unit, considering you already have a sub and sub amp.
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Originally Posted by dan23467
Im looking to have really good sound, i also like alpine after puttting a alpine headunit and speakers in my old car. My discount is cost + 5%, so pretty much what best buy gets it for. Would 6.5s in the sail pannel be overkill for people sitting in the back seat, since the speakers would be very close to their ears.
Thank you all for your oppinions
Thank you all for your oppinions
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
thanks again for the help, i am looking for good clean full sound around the whole car, and to be able to tell a good diference from monsoon to what I do, So dont even mess with the rear? If i were to use a 2 channel amp for the front what would you recommend, maybe one of these?
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1099388650720
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1069301995212
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1069301995330
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1099388650720
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1069301995212
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1069301995330
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 722
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Go with all type-R stuff. We get great deals on them. Or you could wait til Alpine does some kind of accomadation. Go with 1 typeR 12'' sub with the mrp-650 amp. And type R 6.5'' components. Or you could go the route Im going to take. With all type-r speakers and a 4 channel amp, you may not even feel the need for a sub. Hook those 4 speakers to the old f345 v-12 amp and youll be golden. Or use the new v-power 450, I think. Its a 4 channel amp with 100watt rms x 4 channels. Good luck.
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
IMO alpines lower model head units dont seem to put great sound to speakers with out amping, even if it is 60 x 4 i really dont think the THD of a built in amp is worh a ****, I have always used slave units(no internal amp) for my car audio for the simple fact is a GOOD 200 watt 4channel will ALLWAYS sound better then a HU with same rating of power, Remember Clean power of a lesser value is better then Distorted pushed to the limit HU power.Also slave units tend to have higher volt RCA connections. I used Jl Evolution 4 6.5 componets(think that what they were called) with a Rockford power 600.4 amp. Sounded OUTSTANDING! Though it still was a very heavy BASS car that could Beat your damn head off (3 alpine type R 12, 3 bd 1000 rockfords) the sound was very clear a not harsh(silk dome tweeters are my pref. v.s Titanium,Aluminum) I would def. amp the mid bass speakers ! With a lil bit of dyna mat in the doors f bodies can have good sound, Just beware of the FBOdy rattles, if u are into SQ def invest in sound deadning material.Good luck with the install
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 44
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ok cool thanks again guys, i have one or two more questions. I think im guna do what allergic said, i was already pretty sure i was going to go with 2 pairs of Type Rs. I had seen the f450 on alpines website, but didnt think bestbuy carried it because it wasnt on the website. Then the other day at work i saw one there, so im pretty sure ill get that too.
Im still guna get the Alpine CDA-9856 head unit.
Im also pretty sure i want the Alpine SPR-17LS components for the front.
You guys mentioned using rears wouldnt help much, so im thinking about getting 6.5 type R coaxials in the sail pannel. Im guessing this wouldnt be a big issue, plus it wouldnt affect me as much, but would this be overkill for people sitting in the back seat since the sails are right next to them?
If i did this, would some alpine type s's in the rear running of the head unit make a difference at all (i want to take advantage of all of the speaker spaces in the car)? The reason i ask this is because the monsoon setup using all the speakers is the best system ive had or heard (my old car had 4 bottom line pioneers)
Im still guna get the Alpine CDA-9856 head unit.
Im also pretty sure i want the Alpine SPR-17LS components for the front.
You guys mentioned using rears wouldnt help much, so im thinking about getting 6.5 type R coaxials in the sail pannel. Im guessing this wouldnt be a big issue, plus it wouldnt affect me as much, but would this be overkill for people sitting in the back seat since the sails are right next to them?
If i did this, would some alpine type s's in the rear running of the head unit make a difference at all (i want to take advantage of all of the speaker spaces in the car)? The reason i ask this is because the monsoon setup using all the speakers is the best system ive had or heard (my old car had 4 bottom line pioneers)
I have Alpine 6.5 type S's in the doors and sail pannels of my car. I am currently running them off deck power. I also have an Alpine 12" Type S sub in a stealth box and an Alpine mono amp. When cranked up all the way, the bass doesn't over power my highs which I like. I just disconnected the two 4" speakers in the hatch. My friend has a set in his camaro that are hooked up, and you can't tell the difference if the are connected or disconnected with the stereo on.
Personally I don't like Alpine head units. A lot of guys around here have been having problems with them not ejecting CD's. I like Pioneer Units. I have been using Pioneer decks since I started driving in 96 and never had one fail on me.
Personally I don't like Alpine head units. A lot of guys around here have been having problems with them not ejecting CD's. I like Pioneer Units. I have been using Pioneer decks since I started driving in 96 and never had one fail on me.
