Adding Aplified 8" Sub To Monsoon
Grab the high-level inputs for the tube off of the radio outputs (tapped at the input harness of the monsoon amp). If you tap them from the speaker connections you're getting an extra layer of distortion from the monsoon amp, and not all of the speakers get a full-range signal.
You are still going to need to run a fused power wire from the battery, and a new ground in the back. Grab a cheap 4 or 8 gauge wiring kit from eBay, and stick a fuse in it 1 step above the tube's fuse rating as close to the battery as possible. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP! The factory amp power lines will not power the tube, and the fuse is critical to keep you from having a 14 foot heavy gauge possible short circuit wire in your car. Use the search, there are threads showing the best place to get the wire through the firewall.
The tube should have a "auto-on" feature meaning the speaker signals act as the turn-on. If not you'll also need to run a turn on lead.
In the end, I would still recommend going with a stealth box and modest amp. The weight difference is negligible from a performance standpoint. The box will provide more bass, and not take up hatch / t-top storage space the tube would. It will also be able to grow with you if you end up upgrading the whole car's sound system.
A tube makes sense if you are on a terribly strict budget, and don't mind losing the hatch space. If you fit that description go for it - it is the cheapest way to add real bass to a factory setup by far.
Last edited by todddchi; Mar 27, 2006 at 10:11 AM.
Trending Topics
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time



