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Questions about amp selection

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Old 03-29-2006, 11:18 PM
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Default Questions about amp selection

I am thinking about getting a stealth box and putting in a sub just to add the little more bass that I'm desiring. Being new to car audio, I was wondering how to select an amp? I guess first off, should I select a 2 or a 4 ohm sub? I was considering the alpine type-s. That sub's power range is 50-300 watts RMS. So should I get an amp that puts out 300 watts bridged/ or does somebody make a 1 channel 300 watt amp? Sorry, if I'm completely missing something, like i said I'm new to this.

If anyone has a cheap set up (sub and amp) in mind let me know. I'm not really wanting to spend all that much, as I was a first just considering replacing the sail panel speakers. I don't mind if its an 8 inch sub either. I just want some more bass for not a lot of money. Thanks guys.
Old 03-30-2006, 12:23 AM
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If you are wanting one sub, the Alpine Type-S is a great choice. I have two of them and they work really well. For one sub configurations, get the SWS-1042D (10") or SWS-1242D (12"). For a dual sub configuration, get the SWS-1022D (10") or SWS-1222D (12"). The Type-S subs are dual voice coil and each coil is rated at 150 Watts RMS. As for the amp, you will want a class D monoblock (1 channel outupt) since they are very efficient since they work in a small frequency band. I am putting 152 Watts RMS on each coil and it pushes they well. So, you would want an amp that does at least 300 Watts RMS at 2 Ohms. A good amp for 1 sub would be the Alpine MRP-M450. It is rated at 400Watts RMSx1 at 2 Ohm. For the system as a whole:

Alpine Type-S $80 shipped
Alpine MRP-M450 $125
Subthump Stealthbox $129 shipped

If you are wanting a cheaper route, the MTX Thunderform CF10 is a decent option. I had one and it work pretty good and fit really well in the hatch. They are ~$180 and include the MTX 10" Sub. All you would need is the amp.

Then, you will need wire to power the amp. Since the amp will be in the hatch, 6 gauge wire should do fine. All the little hardware pieces, like connectors, should be cheap and I bought all of these things at Parts Express.
Old 03-30-2006, 11:02 AM
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Thanks. Thats exactly what I was looking for. Where did you find those prices at? At crutchfield the sub is $129 and the amp is $199.

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Old 03-30-2006, 11:04 AM
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Since its only one sub, I don't need a capacitor or anything do i?
Old 03-30-2006, 11:47 AM
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I second the alpine type s choice. Rockford fosgate is also good bass for a good price, if you want to look into that. You really shouldn't need a capacitor. If your lights start to dim and your rpms surge at idle then I'd look into getting a capacitor. But with a class d amp you shouldn't need one at all.
Old 03-30-2006, 11:38 PM
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The addition of a capacitor is a band aid for a charging problem. If you experience dimming, you need to increase the gauge of the wires from the battery to alternator and battery to ground. More than likely, you will be fine without a cap. I purchase my stereo equipment from eBay using high volume sellers. I have found some good deals on subs, amps and componet speakers.




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