OK I have an 01 ws6 vert and I want to up grade my factory head unit and add a sub in the trunk. Do I need to get a seperate amp for the sub or can I use the factory one. OH by the why I have the stock monsoon stero.

 

I just bought a 10" subthump box with an Alpine sub and a RF 300watt amp...I honestly couldn't imagine anyone wanting anymore bass in our cars. Its just so small inside, and with the hatchback design, I can't even turn it all the way up. I do have an Alpine headunit, although that shouldn't matter much. Definetely pony up and get an amp for the sub...just wait and find one used on the Parts For Sale forum....I got all my stuff for about half price of what it costs new....good luck!

 

Have you put it in yet? If so how does it sound? Did you have any issues put in your new head unit. Thanks for you help

 

If you want a stealth box, you will need the passenger side stealth box. The driver side stealth box will not work in a 'vert because that is where the pump is located. Problem with that is the spare tire will need to be removed. The stealth box works really well and you will need an external amp. I good combination would be the Passenger Side Stealth Box, Alpine Type-S 10" Sub and an Alpine MRP-M650 Amp. The HU are really easy to install and is self explanatory. Just get the install kit, wiring harness and antenna adaptor. The Alpine CDA-9851 is a good choice.

 

If I get the Alpine Type-S 10" sub do i want it to be a 2ohm or 4ohm

 

You need to adjust your expectations due to it being a vert, if you want bass with the top down.

Top up the stealth boxes will sound kinda close to a coupe, top down is a whole nother story. Browse the convertible forums if you are interested in still having bass wtih the top down. It's a lot more complicated.

 

Todddchi thanks for the input I saw a box built by Johnny b that has 2 8" subs or 4 8" sub should that be enough for bass. Im a new to this sort or thing

 

I have one of John's boxes and I believe (obviously) it to be one of the best solutions to get usable bass in a convertible.

His box or a built-up solution similar is definitely one of the better approaches if you want to keep your trunk space, have bass with the top down, and not build something up in the rear seat or cabin area.

If you just want good bottom end fill then 2 hearty 8" subs fed about 200-300 watts rms should be fine in a wedged shelf box like Johns.

I have a 4 x 8" box with 400 watts rms going to them. Top up it hits, top down, it no longer hits, rather it just provides loud, clear bass, but not boomer bass. If I could get it more power, it'd pound really nice. Just when the amp is starting to clip is when it really comes to life.

I'd try 2 first to see if it suits you. If you have the box built you'll have to figure on what you think is more likely to satisfy you.

 

Sweet thanks for your info. How did your install go as far as putting your h/u. Im looking at getting the Alpine CDA-9851 with the cool h/u mount with the LEDs and pac swi so i can still have fuction of my steering wheel controls. Is that difficult to do. I have done a h/u install once so im not to fimiliar with that.

 

Get an Eclipse Hu from ebay instead. Around 320 delivered, much better sound quality.

 

I went with a Kenwood head unit because I've had two of them in previous vehicles and they were tanks about reading MP3 cds of all different sorts. I also like Alpine alot.

I went with the Kenwood because for $150 it had:
- Robust MP3 / media support
- 3 pairs of RCA's (important as I did not want the subs tied to the rear RCA's)
- Subwoofer controls (Sub RCA levels can be adjusted up front, not just bass)
- Built-in HP and LP filters for all 6 RCA's (aftermarket amps with crossovers make this less necessary but I needed it at the time to avoid adding bass blockers to the coaxials)
- On-board amp was is switchable
- Wireless remote control (radio must have a remote sensor to be able to use a PAC unit to keep steering wheel controls)
- Common and cheap enough not to be an extremely tempting theft target. Kenwoods are pretty average hardware. A thief would be much more tempted by a Alpine or Eclipse unit.

The sub RCA's with controls are important in a convertible because you'll want a top-up / top down sub setting. But this could be accomplished with an amp level control, which most sub amps have these days as an accessory.

The PAC unit is mandatory to keep the steering wheel controls. Basically it is a universal remote that takes the inputs of the steering wheel controls and turns them into the appropriate remote signals for your radio. About $50, I think mine was $40 on ebay. I was very apprehensive about the unit but as long as you tap into the right wires setup works just like it should. Hardest part is mounting the IR emitter somewhere where it will always hit the radio sensor but not get in the way. I mounted mine in the angled portion of the center cupholder - on the curve of the slit where a mug handle would fit so it was aiming up at a 45 degree angle or so, but there are many places to mount it.

My location would be bad for someone who often uses coffee mugs, or puts bunches of crap in the cupholder. I do neither and the only problem I've had with line of sight is when my old lady is leaning over it.

The actual head unit installation is the same as in any other vehicle, actually very easy because the radio trim bezel pops right off and only two bolts hold the radio. Long as you get a kit and a harness that part is cake. It'll take longer to run the RCA's, power, and amp turn-on wiring.

 

You get what you pay for in the Hu world. SQ has no substitute

 

You probably have monster cables, too, right?

 

Here's where i mounted the ir emitter.

 

No, monster is a name not quality. My system will blow your crap away. Sound Quality is where its at. I also carry some decent SPL. The Eclipse deck I bought sells for a hell of a lot more than what I paid on ebay for it. Diamond Hex speakers and a BA sub and a PG amp pushing 200 and 400 rms. Its relatively a small system but it will blow the doors off most. You go ahead girl with your monster cable jokes and I'll just enjoy the superior sound quality.

 

Some people only recommend what they use because they know of nothing else. Shop around, go to car electronics sites and ask questions. You wont find to many experts here. I'm not claiming to be an expert either, just talked to a few and know one personaly. Check out my sound deadening thread as well. Your challenge with a vert but do have more than one option. You also need to make sure the sub box you choose has the correct airspace for your sub. Buying pre-made crap isnt always the best way to go but its the easiest. Good luck with your project. They make some nice 8's these days that can be mounted just about anywhere, todd is right about that, in his limited knowledge.
Todd you can banter all you want I'm dropping from this. You dont know as much as you think you know and I dont want to bother educating you. Kenwood is nice but certainly isnt the best and you get what you pay for. My wifes $185 pioneer super tuner blows a certain $350 Kenwood away. But I bought Eclipse for myself. Speakers need to be researched as well. Lot of expensive stuff out there not worth the money. Good luck