Hardwire my radar detector - need help
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From: Ashland, KY
Hardwire my radar detector - need help Can the members please give me input on the best way to go about hardwiring my radar detector into my 2000 SS? I am thinking it would be nice to wire it into the wires that run to my rear-view mirror, but I can only find power in 1 of them when lit up, so I can't find both ground and hot.
Not sure about the rear view mirror but I always do one of two things:
- tap off the switched radio hot and ground
- tap off a switched accessory slot on the fusebox and ground to the column support frame.
All my f-bods have had the detector hardwired sitting in the very left corner of the dash, so the fusebox approach is easier.
- tap off the switched radio hot and ground
- tap off a switched accessory slot on the fusebox and ground to the column support frame.
All my f-bods have had the detector hardwired sitting in the very left corner of the dash, so the fusebox approach is easier.
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
The dark blue with white wire at the mirror is constant (battery) power and the black wire is ground. However, you would be better off using a switched power source as suggested above - otherwise your radar detector will be on all the time and you will have to manually turn it off.
No need for a switch. I have mine tapped into the radio (if I remember correctly). I ran the wire up the a-pilar over to the mirror. It will turn on with the key, and turn off when the key is removed, and door opened.
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
By "switched power source" I meant one that is controlled by the ignition switch rather than one that is on constantly. I wasn't suggesting adding a separate switch.
If you run the power wire down the left A pillar then you can get ignition switched power at a terminal designed for that purpose in the fuse box. It's a single blade terminal labeled IGN. This will turn the detector on and off with the ignition rather than leaving it on during the RAP (retained accessory power) cycle like the radio. Just be sure to add an inline fuse wherever you connect to.
If you run the power wire down the left A pillar then you can get ignition switched power at a terminal designed for that purpose in the fuse box. It's a single blade terminal labeled IGN. This will turn the detector on and off with the ignition rather than leaving it on during the RAP (retained accessory power) cycle like the radio. Just be sure to add an inline fuse wherever you connect to.
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Staging Lane
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From: GA
Originally Posted by PewterNHRA2001
how do actually go about connecting the wire to the IGN slot in the fuse box?
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Why? I just spliced into the wire that turns on my radio when I turn the ignition on. Makes it much easier than running it all the way to the fuse box for no reason. I think it was a light blue wire, but I'm not sure.
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Originally Posted by noname024
I would also like to know this. Trying to get power to my cutout switch and don't even know where to begin.
Originally Posted by n4cer
Why? I just spliced into the wire that turns on my radio when I turn the ignition on. Makes it much easier than running it all the way to the fuse box for no reason. I think it was a light blue wire, but I'm not sure.
ya i think ill run my radar to the radio and run the cutout to the fuse box i already got a electric waterpump on the fuse box aswell
been a few months since i fooled with the headunit anyone got a color chart
been a few months since i fooled with the headunit anyone got a color chart
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Originally Posted by Gun5
been a few months since i fooled with the headunit anyone got a color chart
Staging Lane
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From: GA
Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
Uncover the fuse panel. Remove the bolt that holds the fuse panel to the dash so that you can route your wire through the opening at one side. Crimp or solder an ordinary 1/4" spade (flat) terminal to the end of your wire and plug it into the slot marked IGN (make sure your wire has an inline fuse). Bolt the fuse panel back to the dash and replace the cover.
And coming from the fuse box it would be spade terminal, inline fuse, then hot wire running to switch right? And what amp should I use. 20amp?
Thanks. And sorry...don't know much of anything about electrical systems.
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Originally Posted by noname024
Thanks. But I'm still not sure how all this works. Do you plug the spade terminal into the front of the fuse panel or does it have an area on the back to plug up? Cause from what I saw the IGN only has one slot instead of two, which what looks like what you'd need for the spade terminal.
And coming from the fuse box it would be spade terminal, inline fuse, then hot wire running to switch right? And what amp should I use. 20amp?
Thanks. And sorry...don't know much of anything about electrical systems.
And coming from the fuse box it would be spade terminal, inline fuse, then hot wire running to switch right? And what amp should I use. 20amp?
Thanks. And sorry...don't know much of anything about electrical systems.
Staging Lane
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From: GA
Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
Yes, it plugs into the single slot marked IGN on the front of the fuse panel. Then you run the wire across the front of the panel to one side so it can go into the dash (that's why you unbolt the panel). This will be your hot wire for your accessory. You will want to put an inline fuse in this wire as close as possible to the fuse panel (the idea is to have the shortest possible length of wire that will be unprotected by the fuse). Most inline fuses you buy will have several inches of wire already attached to the fuse holder. You should just put the spade connector on one end of the fuse holder wire, plug it into the fuse panel, and connect the other end of the fuse holder wire to your accessory's power wire. Tuck the inline fuse holder into the dash at the side of the fuse panel when you bolt the panel back in.
And sorry....kinda hijacked this thread.
Teching In
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
Uncover the fuse panel. Remove the bolt that holds the fuse panel to the dash so that you can route your wire through the opening at one side. Crimp or solder an ordinary 1/4" spade (flat) terminal to the end of your wire and plug it into the slot marked IGN (make sure your wire has an inline fuse). Bolt the fuse panel back to the dash and replace the cover.
Why run a wire all the way from the A pillar to the radio when the fuse panel is right there? (we're talking about a radar detector near the mirror) Besides, whenever possible, it's better to use a circuit that is designed for accessory installation rather than tap into a circuit already in use. In this case, the yellow wire at the radio provides power not only when the ignition is on but also during RAP operation - so it's not really what you want for a radar detector.
Why run a wire all the way from the A pillar to the radio when the fuse panel is right there? (we're talking about a radar detector near the mirror) Besides, whenever possible, it's better to use a circuit that is designed for accessory installation rather than tap into a circuit already in use. In this case, the yellow wire at the radio provides power not only when the ignition is on but also during RAP operation - so it's not really what you want for a radar detector.
Thanks for the write up. Everything worked great.
Your battery was prolly low from having the door open for a longer period of time. This happened to me while I was routing amp wiring, and my T/A started, the died a couple times before the alternator juiced up the battery. hmm... I should prolly get a better battery...
wow these are all so complicated. you know the little "vents" in the middle of your dash are? if u put the detector right in front, you an run the wire into that vent. pull out your stereo and grab the wire thats dangling down. wire it to the TRACTION CONTROL switch (the one right above the stereo) and thats it!! even when you flip the switch, the radar will still be on as long is the key is in the on position
PLease For gods sake check to make sure the input on the detector is 12 v and not 6.... Sometimes the Cigarette lighter adapter changes voltage between the cig ligheter and the actual radar detector... Just to be safe check on the detector itself where u plug the power in.
Ive had several people hook up xm units like that which are 6volt inputs and fry their units.
Ive had several people hook up xm units like that which are 6volt inputs and fry their units.
