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06-14-2006, 09:04 AM
#1
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recommend Hey guys I am finally back in a Camaro just got 1996 Z28 SS Convertible. Now I have been out of the stereo game for a few years now so I have no clue what is on the market. Doing research now but would love to get some opinions.
What I want: For now I just want to replace the 2 front and 2 sail speakers as well as the stock HU.
HU
rice dosent really matter to much though not some crazy amount. Thinking 200-400. Want Satelite rdy as well as MP3/CD.
Mids/tweets:Want really good quality sound. Would like to get some good bass out of them since I will be waiting on installing Subs for a while. I really do want quality sound though. Price: Same as above not crazy amount, but would rather spend a bit more here to get the quality Im looking for.
Amp?
So thats where I am at now. Eventually I will be throwing a Sub or 2 in but want to do some other things to the car first.
Thanks for the help
Joe
What I want: For now I just want to replace the 2 front and 2 sail speakers as well as the stock HU.
HU
rice dosent really matter to much though not some crazy amount. Thinking 200-400. Want Satelite rdy as well as MP3/CD.Mids/tweets:Want really good quality sound. Would like to get some good bass out of them since I will be waiting on installing Subs for a while. I really do want quality sound though. Price: Same as above not crazy amount, but would rather spend a bit more here to get the quality Im looking for.
Amp?
So thats where I am at now. Eventually I will be throwing a Sub or 2 in but want to do some other things to the car first.
Thanks for the help
Joe
06-14-2006, 11:52 AM
#2
Verts are completely different animal than coupes, you can't rely upon subs in the same fashion at all.
- Standard head unit install, run RCA's back to a new amp.
- I recommend an amp of at least 50 watts RMS per channel. More need for power up front then in the sail panels. I am running a memphis giving 75x4 and it is pretty good. You wouldn't be wrong going with 100 or more.
- Spend most of your speaker money on the fronts. Very solid 6.5" drivers up front, infinity 652.7i's on the low end, pretty much on up to whatever you prefer on the high end. But keep in mind that these front speakers are going to be 100% of your bass - so some high quality component sets can actually be a very poor choice for this job. You need 6.5" speakers that are made to produce bass, not just midbass/midrange like some components. In the ~$100 range the infinities are a very good fit for this. Oversize woofer, high sensitivity, 2ohm load.
- I have seen some custom fabrication jobs putting 8" subs in the kick panel area and/or doors. If I could go back in time I would have went with this route rather than spending the money on my subs and trunk shelf box that I have. If you drive with the top down most of the time - the bass drivers in your front footwells are much better utilized than trunk subs.
- Dynamat your doors. That $50 will help more than adding rear speakers, and becomes really important when you are pounding the hell out of the door speaker.
- Simple coaxials, ideally voice matched to your fronts, are fine for the back. The back speakers are free air and provide almost no bass at all. You will also need to look for a very shallow mount model, and/or be sure to use a spacer. The top mechanicals drop right down where the rear magnet sits and anything about 1/2" taller than stock will get knocked right off.
- An amp with a subsonic filter and tunable hp filters is more important for verts. You can cut the very deep bass out of the fronts and tune the hp to the rears. Both of these things will help make the most of the compromised driver moutings you have to work with.
If you know you are going to run subs, try to get a head unit with 3 pairs of RCA's and/or an amp with a sub level control. Top up vs. top down requires a way to be able to tune the subs. I also stuck with a relatively conservative head unit to minimize the temptation for theft. The kenwood I have was about $150, MP3, 3 pairs of RCA's with internal crossovers, Sirius ready, and has a remote (to keep steering wheel controls).
- Standard head unit install, run RCA's back to a new amp.
- I recommend an amp of at least 50 watts RMS per channel. More need for power up front then in the sail panels. I am running a memphis giving 75x4 and it is pretty good. You wouldn't be wrong going with 100 or more.
- Spend most of your speaker money on the fronts. Very solid 6.5" drivers up front, infinity 652.7i's on the low end, pretty much on up to whatever you prefer on the high end. But keep in mind that these front speakers are going to be 100% of your bass - so some high quality component sets can actually be a very poor choice for this job. You need 6.5" speakers that are made to produce bass, not just midbass/midrange like some components. In the ~$100 range the infinities are a very good fit for this. Oversize woofer, high sensitivity, 2ohm load.
- I have seen some custom fabrication jobs putting 8" subs in the kick panel area and/or doors. If I could go back in time I would have went with this route rather than spending the money on my subs and trunk shelf box that I have. If you drive with the top down most of the time - the bass drivers in your front footwells are much better utilized than trunk subs.
- Dynamat your doors. That $50 will help more than adding rear speakers, and becomes really important when you are pounding the hell out of the door speaker.
- Simple coaxials, ideally voice matched to your fronts, are fine for the back. The back speakers are free air and provide almost no bass at all. You will also need to look for a very shallow mount model, and/or be sure to use a spacer. The top mechanicals drop right down where the rear magnet sits and anything about 1/2" taller than stock will get knocked right off.
- An amp with a subsonic filter and tunable hp filters is more important for verts. You can cut the very deep bass out of the fronts and tune the hp to the rears. Both of these things will help make the most of the compromised driver moutings you have to work with.
If you know you are going to run subs, try to get a head unit with 3 pairs of RCA's and/or an amp with a sub level control. Top up vs. top down requires a way to be able to tune the subs. I also stuck with a relatively conservative head unit to minimize the temptation for theft. The kenwood I have was about $150, MP3, 3 pairs of RCA's with internal crossovers, Sirius ready, and has a remote (to keep steering wheel controls).
Last edited by todddchi; 06-14-2006 at 11:58 AM.
06-14-2006, 03:41 PM
#3
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Thanks that some great info.
Seems a lot of people are going with the infinity 62.7i. Would that be a good choice for front and rear?
I definitly want to go heavy on the front because that will be where all my bass will be comming from. If I wanted to go relativly high end for the front speakers that have the best bass for the buck what specific pair should I look at? Have noticed Focals getting some great reviews, but not sure which ones. Also as far as not being a co-ax on the front I would have to drill for the tweets correct? Would rather stay away from that, but could do it if needs be.
Seems a lot of people are going with the infinity 62.7i. Would that be a good choice for front and rear?
I definitly want to go heavy on the front because that will be where all my bass will be comming from. If I wanted to go relativly high end for the front speakers that have the best bass for the buck what specific pair should I look at? Have noticed Focals getting some great reviews, but not sure which ones. Also as far as not being a co-ax on the front I would have to drill for the tweets correct? Would rather stay away from that, but could do it if needs be.
06-14-2006, 04:16 PM
#4
No prob.
It's my personal opinion that the 652.7i's are a good choice up front in the 75-125 price range.
Note that these are not the same as 62.7i's. 652.7i's are a little bit bigger and use an external crossover. They are nominally more expensive, you have to deal with mounting the crossover, and because they use an external crossover they aren't as easy to bi-wire like 62.7i's are. On the same note I think 652.7i's would be wasted in the back, and would use 62.7i's there.
Using a seperate amp so I would go with them for the money. I found a pair of 652.7i's and a Dynamat Xtreme door kit online for $150 shipped - not bad.
I'm sorry but I am not very helpful out of the 75-125 price range for 6.5's speaker sets. Once you get over that price range you get into mostly component sets and smaller "word of mouth" boutique type brands that I just didn't have the time to visit a bunch of shops and evaluate. If you can check out many brands then obviously this would be best path, especially if you have a bigger budget to work with. If you have really deep pockets I'd talk to a shop about squeezing 8"s in there. I really regret diving straight into trunk shelf box. I think a custom setup pounding the hell out of two 8"s in the kick area would have been much more efficient, less wiring, less amp requirement, much less mass for the same sound (top down).
I have read in many places that German made "Rainbow" 6.5"s are among the very nicest 6.5"s you can get. It's going to be really hard to get a uniform opinion about which 6.5" set would give the best bass response. Maybe Mike will chime in.
I can tell you I have 75rms going to my 652.7i's, and the doors are dynamatted. Obviously I don't have a large amount of "feel" bass but for anything not synthesized the sound is very strong and accurate. Just no booming ghetto bass. Very good for a vert though.
It's my personal opinion that the 652.7i's are a good choice up front in the 75-125 price range.
Note that these are not the same as 62.7i's. 652.7i's are a little bit bigger and use an external crossover. They are nominally more expensive, you have to deal with mounting the crossover, and because they use an external crossover they aren't as easy to bi-wire like 62.7i's are. On the same note I think 652.7i's would be wasted in the back, and would use 62.7i's there.
Using a seperate amp so I would go with them for the money. I found a pair of 652.7i's and a Dynamat Xtreme door kit online for $150 shipped - not bad.
I'm sorry but I am not very helpful out of the 75-125 price range for 6.5's speaker sets. Once you get over that price range you get into mostly component sets and smaller "word of mouth" boutique type brands that I just didn't have the time to visit a bunch of shops and evaluate. If you can check out many brands then obviously this would be best path, especially if you have a bigger budget to work with. If you have really deep pockets I'd talk to a shop about squeezing 8"s in there. I really regret diving straight into trunk shelf box. I think a custom setup pounding the hell out of two 8"s in the kick area would have been much more efficient, less wiring, less amp requirement, much less mass for the same sound (top down).
I have read in many places that German made "Rainbow" 6.5"s are among the very nicest 6.5"s you can get. It's going to be really hard to get a uniform opinion about which 6.5" set would give the best bass response. Maybe Mike will chime in.
I can tell you I have 75rms going to my 652.7i's, and the doors are dynamatted. Obviously I don't have a large amount of "feel" bass but for anything not synthesized the sound is very strong and accurate. Just no booming ghetto bass. Very good for a vert though.
Last edited by todddchi; 06-14-2006 at 04:22 PM.
06-15-2006, 07:45 AM
#5
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Well I found the HU i want DEH-P780MP Pioneer. Got some good prices on Ebay.
Those 652.7i's Look like a good choice for the front. and the 62.7i's for the rear.
Also Looking at the Infinity Kappa 60.7cs for the front, as maybe a step up from the 652.7i. Think there would be a noticeable difference?
Putting HU Mount
for the smaller HU.
Now for the amp. Any Sugestions?
Anyone else have any thoughts on this setup?
Thanks for all the help
Joe
Those 652.7i's Look like a good choice for the front. and the 62.7i's for the rear.
Also Looking at the Infinity Kappa 60.7cs for the front, as maybe a step up from the 652.7i. Think there would be a noticeable difference?
Putting HU Mount
for the smaller HU.
Now for the amp. Any Sugestions?
Anyone else have any thoughts on this setup?
Thanks for all the help
Joe
Last edited by Morikk; 06-15-2006 at 08:28 AM.
06-15-2006, 01:32 PM
#6
Someone with 60.7's will have to chime in.
Like I said though, often time component sets are not really designed for full range - the woofers are more designed for midrange and midbass, whereas the 652.7's are made to be full range. I'm sure there are some really robust 6.5" sets out there. Maybe JL's or Diamonds or something. But the 652.7i's are cheap.
You don't need to be very picky about your amp. Even stuff you can buy at common stores - Alpine, Kicker, RF, are all pretty good basic 4 channels. It's when you get into higher power levels, low ohm drives, or sub amps that things start to get really complicated. For you a simple 50-100x4 is all you need, and there are many, many choices.
Personally I like Memphis because the amps are really efficient (long playing time w/o killing the battery), small, and because they are so efficient, they don't run hot and can be put in very small spaces, even in the spare tire well like stock. Just get a reputable brand that actually puts out it's rated power - don't be tempted by all the eBay knock-offs and Lanzars/Pyramids etc.
Like I said though, often time component sets are not really designed for full range - the woofers are more designed for midrange and midbass, whereas the 652.7's are made to be full range. I'm sure there are some really robust 6.5" sets out there. Maybe JL's or Diamonds or something. But the 652.7i's are cheap.
You don't need to be very picky about your amp. Even stuff you can buy at common stores - Alpine, Kicker, RF, are all pretty good basic 4 channels. It's when you get into higher power levels, low ohm drives, or sub amps that things start to get really complicated. For you a simple 50-100x4 is all you need, and there are many, many choices.
Personally I like Memphis because the amps are really efficient (long playing time w/o killing the battery), small, and because they are so efficient, they don't run hot and can be put in very small spaces, even in the spare tire well like stock. Just get a reputable brand that actually puts out it's rated power - don't be tempted by all the eBay knock-offs and Lanzars/Pyramids etc.
06-15-2006, 05:10 PM
#7
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Update Ok after two full days of doing research (I am a definite car stereo novice) I think I have found close to what I am looking for.
My car-1996 Camaro Z28 SS Convertible
What im looking for-Right now I just want a good set of 6.5 components up front with a good HU and amp to power the comps. I plan on replacing the stock Rear speakers as well as adding a Sub at a later time.
K this is what I have found so far.
Components-Focal 165V2 6.5s
HU-Pioneer DEH-P780MP
Amp-Phoenix Gold OCTANE-R 8.0:4 (75 W x 4)@4ohm
I am pretty sure the speakers and HU are good, but Im not sure about that amp. It seems really under priced for its power.
One other question I have is the Focal's. Does anyone know if I will have any problems mounting them in the door panel? Depth/Width problem?
Thank you all for any comments or sugestions.
My car-1996 Camaro Z28 SS Convertible
What im looking for-Right now I just want a good set of 6.5 components up front with a good HU and amp to power the comps. I plan on replacing the stock Rear speakers as well as adding a Sub at a later time.
K this is what I have found so far.
Components-Focal 165V2 6.5s
HU-Pioneer DEH-P780MP
Amp-Phoenix Gold OCTANE-R 8.0:4 (75 W x 4)@4ohm
I am pretty sure the speakers and HU are good, but Im not sure about that amp. It seems really under priced for its power.
One other question I have is the Focal's. Does anyone know if I will have any problems mounting them in the door panel? Depth/Width problem?
Thank you all for any comments or sugestions.
