i keep killling alternators WHY??
i keep killling alternators WHY?? Ok Im On My 4th Alternator
actually its the same one that is getting rebuilt by a very reputable builder..
but the story goes ... i put it in and it works great... after driving arround for a little bit and the car gets nice and hot the voltage starts surging from 12v-14v even while im up in rpms (2-3k).... not too long after that (a few hrs worth of driveing) the thing just stops working completly
the last 2 times the voltage regulator was replaced but this does not seem to fix the entire problem.. my hypothesis is sometihng is causing the volage regulator to burn up
also i have replaced all the grounds and have a 4ga wire ran to my battery in the rear of the car...
The only thing i can guess might be causing this is along time ago i removed the heat sheild between the engine and alternator but for everyone i spoke with they said this was no big deal and definately not my cause
finally the car always throws the code po1637 L-generator (old) (immature)
-HELP!!!
actually its the same one that is getting rebuilt by a very reputable builder..
but the story goes ... i put it in and it works great... after driving arround for a little bit and the car gets nice and hot the voltage starts surging from 12v-14v even while im up in rpms (2-3k).... not too long after that (a few hrs worth of driveing) the thing just stops working completly
the last 2 times the voltage regulator was replaced but this does not seem to fix the entire problem.. my hypothesis is sometihng is causing the volage regulator to burn up
also i have replaced all the grounds and have a 4ga wire ran to my battery in the rear of the car...
The only thing i can guess might be causing this is along time ago i removed the heat sheild between the engine and alternator but for everyone i spoke with they said this was no big deal and definately not my cause
finally the car always throws the code po1637 L-generator (old) (immature)
-HELP!!!
Last edited by Jpr5690; Jun 15, 2006 at 06:12 PM.
Again When The Car Is Cold The Thing Works Fine .. It Is Not Until The Car Has Been Driven For A Few Miles That The Surgung Anf Failing Of The Alternator Happens?
Also This Is A 200amp Alternator I Also Have A Underdrive Pulley And A Yellowtop
Also This Is A 200amp Alternator I Also Have A Underdrive Pulley And A Yellowtop
SO... do you have an aftermarket stereo setup? amps and all? maybe you need a higher amp alternator. i went through 4 alternators in a week in my 91. i think the rebuilt ones were just junk. they only worked for about a day before i was left stranded on the side of the road. after the fourth one, i never had any problems. so i'd say check your amp connections, if nothing is criss crossed, and everything is straight, i'd try a higher output alternator.
DAM GUYS READ THE POST PLEASE 
Originally Posted by Jpr5690
Again When The Car Is Cold The Thing Works Fine .. It Is Not Until The Car Has Been Driven For A Few Miles That The Surgung Anf Failing Of The Alternator Happens?
Also This Is A 200amp Alternator I Also Have A Underdrive Pulley And A Yellowtop
Also This Is A 200amp Alternator I Also Have A Underdrive Pulley And A Yellowtop
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Verdad Gallardo BTW i was thinking heat too.. just not from the way you put it
also my battery is in my spare tire will so it dont get hot.. but lets say my battery was damaged somehow could this cause the unit to click on and off?
also my battery is in my spare tire will so it dont get hot.. but lets say my battery was damaged somehow could this cause the unit to click on and off?
?????? My Battery Did Sustain Damage A While Back (arck'ed It Pretty Bad) But I Didnt Think Anything Was Wrong With It ? I Know The Battery Is Not Getting Hot But Could The Battery Be Shorting Somehow And That Cause The Alternator To Ground Out?
Ok Its Not The Battery (swapped Batteries) I Had A Overdrive Pulley But We Guessed The Last One (2nd One) Blew Up Due To Over Reving It So We Replaced It With A Bigger Pulley To Slow It Down A Bit At High Rpms
It is your one wire plug on top of the alternator. Because of the lack of tension on it, it's starting to give way. That's why your throwing the P01637 code. Believe me, I went trough the same thing. I kept replaceing the alternator, replacing batteries, then one day the wire just snapped. Went to the dealer and picked one up for like $35. They'll give you the plug with 4 wires, but just cut the 3 you don't need. Trust me, replace that plug and all your troubles will go away.
lack of tension? also i've hooked a mulitmeter up to that wire and it seems to be sending a signal ..... along time ago i extended that wire after it snapped off .. the connections are all soidered and heatshrinked......is their a way i can test the wire besides just hooking a mulit meter up to it while the cars idleing
all i was able to do was stick the probe from the mulitmeter inside the tip of the plug and it read something like 9-10v but i dont really know what the told me except for that the wire is not shorted
all i was able to do was stick the probe from the mulitmeter inside the tip of the plug and it read something like 9-10v but i dont really know what the told me except for that the wire is not shorted
Originally Posted by Jpr5690
Again When The Car Is Cold The Thing Works Fine .. It Is Not Until The Car Has Been Driven For A Few Miles That The Surgung Anf Failing Of The Alternator Happens?
Also This Is A 200amp Alternator I Also Have A Underdrive Pulley And A Yellowtop
Also This Is A 200amp Alternator I Also Have A Underdrive Pulley And A Yellowtop
Have your battery checked. If you are running the yellow top, this battery requires alot, I mean ALOT to recharge it. To the point it will suck everything the alternator has to give and still want more. I have seen this on more than one occasion and have talked to reputible builders of alternators in the stereo competition world. I am not going to go into it on your post, do a search and it should come up under my name.
Also as stated above, check the small wire on the back of the alternator. Mine broke off while doing motor mounts. I paid like $8 to get another from a sponsor.
thanks for the intrest guys but really i just got done saying i had used a mulitmeter to verify that their is a live wire plugging into the aternator although i cant be sure the wire is sending a "proper" signal i am sure their is some current running down that wire up to the tip of the plug that goen into the alternator also the alternator does work at times its just inconsistent as i gets hot..
also not to agrue but yellowtops actually take less effort to recharge.. this is one of their many strong points.. and if you look on the website one of their main seling points. see the higher the resistance the harder the alternator has to work to charge the battery but being yellowtops are known for their low resistance they allow for less strain on your chargng system...
finally ALSO SAID ABOVE i swapped batteries for a brand new battery out of my other car last night this was a top end but regular type battery and the alternator did the exact same thing....
i hate to sound like an ***....because i know your only tring to help; AND I REALLY DO APPRICIATE THE HELP... but really your not helping id you dont read the posts before just misguiding me with diagnosis that are already excluded in my problems decription
personally i try to read the thread before respnding to a post
also not to agrue but yellowtops actually take less effort to recharge.. this is one of their many strong points.. and if you look on the website one of their main seling points. see the higher the resistance the harder the alternator has to work to charge the battery but being yellowtops are known for their low resistance they allow for less strain on your chargng system...
finally ALSO SAID ABOVE i swapped batteries for a brand new battery out of my other car last night this was a top end but regular type battery and the alternator did the exact same thing....
i hate to sound like an ***....because i know your only tring to help; AND I REALLY DO APPRICIATE THE HELP... but really your not helping id you dont read the posts before just misguiding me with diagnosis that are already excluded in my problems decription
personally i try to read the thread before respnding to a post
i was thinking just for the fun of this whole thing im gonna replace that plug latter this weekend and see if somehow im missing something .. i really doubt its the prob but ill be glad to say im the *** if it is ...
ill keep you all posted
ill keep you all posted
Originally Posted by Jpr5690
thanks for the intrest guys but really i just got done saying i had used a mulitmeter to verify that their is a live wire plugging into the aternator although i cant be sure the wire is sending a "proper" signal i am sure their is some current running down that wire up to the tip of the plug that goen into the alternator also the alternator does work at times its just inconsistent as i gets hot..
also not to agrue but yellowtops actually take less effort to recharge.. this is one of their many strong points.. and if you look on the website one of their main seling points. see the higher the resistance the harder the alternator has to work to charge the battery but being yellowtops are known for their low resistance they allow for less strain on your chargng system...
finally ALSO SAID ABOVE i swapped batteries for a brand new battery out of my other car last night this was a top end but regular type battery and the alternator did the exact same thing....
i hate to sound like an ***....because i know your only tring to help; AND I REALLY DO APPRICIATE THE HELP... but really your not helping id you dont read the posts before just misguiding me with diagnosis that are already excluded in my problems decription
personally i try to read the thread before respnding to a post
also not to agrue but yellowtops actually take less effort to recharge.. this is one of their many strong points.. and if you look on the website one of their main seling points. see the higher the resistance the harder the alternator has to work to charge the battery but being yellowtops are known for their low resistance they allow for less strain on your chargng system...
finally ALSO SAID ABOVE i swapped batteries for a brand new battery out of my other car last night this was a top end but regular type battery and the alternator did the exact same thing....
i hate to sound like an ***....because i know your only tring to help; AND I REALLY DO APPRICIATE THE HELP... but really your not helping id you dont read the posts before just misguiding me with diagnosis that are already excluded in my problems decription
personally i try to read the thread before respnding to a post
affirmative on the yellow tops, it doesn't required allot of power to recharge.
Is the alternator high powered or factory speced?
Someone mentioned to check the tension. This will kill the alternator too.
If the alternator belt slips, it causes heat buildup on the front shaft and the bearing will fail prematurely. It will fail, especially if your using a high powered alternator.