200amp Alternator (so High Output)

How Dom I Check Belt Tension The Car Has Stok Tesioners In It

 

it's usually the tension adjustment pulley that needs replacement. The should be no slack in it at all. See if you can move the adustment pulley with your hand. I think they said there's a spring in there that wears over time.

Honestly, the best thing to do is try changing the belt with a v-belt. When I went WOT, the belt would slip, when I changed it to a v-belt, the problem went away.

I picked up a v-belt at autozone for around $35. But all the retail companies have them, pep boys, etc. Don't get the standard one.


I would try that first, if you still have problems, than look at replacing the tension-adjustment pulley.

 

Keep in mind that you can measure "fine" voltage and low resistance with a multimeter, but that wire still won't work properly if it's near its breaking point. Unless you can stick a 200A current meter in there and measure the actual current output of the alternator, you just don't know. You can have 1 strand out of a 20 strand wire still intact - and your voltmeter will still measure a rock solid 13 volts and near 0 resistance. But ask that 1 strand to flow 200 amps, and you'll get in trouble real quick.

 

THE WIRE ON TOP DOESNT FLOW 200AMPS I HAVE A BRAND NEW 2GA WIRE FOR THAT THE WIRE ON TOP JUST SENDS A SMALL SIGNAL FROM THE PCM TO TURN ON THE ALTERNATOR... IN MY TEST I UNPLUGGED IT AND NOTICED I THREW THE CODE IMMEDIATELY.. THEN I PLUGGED IT BACK IN AND IT WORKED BUT STILL THROWS CODES.. ALSO I HAVE LET THE CAR IDLE IN THE GARAGE FOR 20 MIN WITH NO PROBS BUT WHEN **** GETS HOT THE THING STARTS DYING....


ALSO I'VE LOST 2 DIFFERENT RELAYS IN THE LAST FEW MONTHS.. IM BEGINNING TO THINK THE UNIT IS JUNK AND COULD BE HAVING ADVERSE EFFECTS ON MY CARS ELECTERICAL SYSTEM

 

I've Always Moved My Tensioner By Hand But It Hakes Some Good Effort So I Usally Put A Socket On The Bolt To Help Turn It

 

Also Slip Doesnt Seem To Be The Problem.. This Is Not A High Rpm Thing Were Talking Were Talking It Stops Working At Lower Engine Speeds..

 

Try an alternator with more amps.

 

Who Comes Up With This ****!... Common Guys, Read Before You Reply !!!!!!

Its A 200amp Alternator How Much Mor Epower Could You Want For A Street Car!

 

Your alternator has a fundamental problem when
trying to run all that stereo gear, at idle. The output
depends on shaft speed and field current to make
voltage, shaft torque and field current to make
amperage. When you idle at a low RPM the alternator
has to make up for the low speed by pushing more
field current via the regulator. This dumps a lot more
heat in the regulator. When you dump heat, and you
are already in the heat, you have squat for cooling
and if the regulator doesn't self-limit it will self-
destruct. Your voltage falling off at warm temps
I think is thermal shutdown, but enough time on the
edge and it will eventually be toast.

Underdrive pulleys will aggravate this even more.

You might want to look around for an overdrive
alt pulley, like they make for using with the
underdrive crank pulleys, and use it with the
stock crank pulley. That will help it out, but you
may need to get a different length main
serpentine belt.

 

Sorry missed that part!

 

so do these things have a therml shutdown switch?

 

also this thing acts up with only the ac\ and ewp (no lights or stereo) pulling on it .. yea i do have a underdrive crank pulley but i dont understand why this tihng would be overheating with such a small load its not like this tihng shuts down after large drains.. the thing just shuts down after driving for a while with minimal acessories running

 

Well, mine dims out on summer days with the A/C running.
It's not a small load, you have the fans and the compressor
clutch, as well as all the engine base load to run. And even
without much current load you still have the basic motor /
alternator facts of life; shaft speed * field current = voltage.
If your shaft speed is so low that you need insane current
to make the voltage, you're in a bind. The field current is
not the load current, it's just what sets up the magnetic
field so the alternator makes voltage.

I have to believe that Delphi designed some current limit
and thermal protection into their regulator module. That's
just good practice, common in regulator designs. Often
you have current limit, thermal cutout and power limit
(thermal limit often being too slow to save you) built
in. And I'm vurtually 50% certain this is your trouble,
field current demand greater than field current capability.

The alt overdrive pulley should not be that bad an
expense. Well less than another alternator I expect
(which has not fixed the trouble). If you get up out of
the voltage sag by just giving it some gas (RPM) then
you have to take that as confirming the shaft speed
as the issue.

 

Im Thinkin Of Tring It Again But The Last Alternator Had A Underdrive Pulley And It Died The Same Way.... We "thought" That The Combo Of Spinnking To 6800 Rpms And The Overdrive Pulley Might Have Damaged It So That Is Why We Went Back To A Stock Sized Pulley On This One ... To Tell You The Truth I Didnt See Any Difference In Performance... The Alternator Works Great Idleing In The Garge(reads 14.7 Volts ) Even When I Force The Car To 230's Coolant Temps (by Cutting Off Fans) But Once Its Movin The Problems Begin After About 10 Min Of Drivin

 

Um. That wire doesn't carry current. And if it did and was frayed like you suggest, you'd melt the remaining strands, then you'd have an dead open.

 

Have you tried replacing the PCM?

 

no.. im gonna get a new alternator from this guy the others were rebuilds so im guessing he just missed something.. hopefully a brand new unit will work out fine