New wiring?
New wiring? Ok i want to redo the stereo in my car. Nothing crazy. I was thinking a head unit, get 2 set of 6 1/2's for the doors and sail panels. and a small bass tube. Im i going to have to rewire the entire stereo or can i use any of the existing wires? I thought i read a post on this a while ago but i cant seem to find it.
- Head unit drops in like any other install.
- Front door speakers get bi-wired with factory wiring / using factory power setup (better than any head unit amp)
- Rear sail speakers get bi-wired using 1 pair of existing wires, and running the rear (hatch) wires up to the tweeter, if you want full range.
- Rear hatch speakers go away.
- Run new fused power line and turn-on from the battery and radio back to the spare tire area, along with RCA from the deck (sub if you have them, non-fading preferred).
- Hook up your tube, run a ground from it.
It would be very beneficial to get a head unit that has both 3 pairs of RCA outputs (for sub to have it's own settings) and also built-in crossovers.
This way you can high pass the four 6.5" drivers to cut bass out of them, and adjust the level of the sub through the deck. This will make tuning possible and allow the end sound quality to be much better.
What I am suggesting retains use of the factory wiring setup, you are pulling power not only from the monsoon amp but also from your aftermarket deck. It will sound best this way.
Done.
- Front door speakers get bi-wired with factory wiring / using factory power setup (better than any head unit amp)
- Rear sail speakers get bi-wired using 1 pair of existing wires, and running the rear (hatch) wires up to the tweeter, if you want full range.
- Rear hatch speakers go away.
- Run new fused power line and turn-on from the battery and radio back to the spare tire area, along with RCA from the deck (sub if you have them, non-fading preferred).
- Hook up your tube, run a ground from it.
It would be very beneficial to get a head unit that has both 3 pairs of RCA outputs (for sub to have it's own settings) and also built-in crossovers.
This way you can high pass the four 6.5" drivers to cut bass out of them, and adjust the level of the sub through the deck. This will make tuning possible and allow the end sound quality to be much better.
What I am suggesting retains use of the factory wiring setup, you are pulling power not only from the monsoon amp but also from your aftermarket deck. It will sound best this way.
Done.
Last edited by todddchi; Jun 28, 2006 at 12:58 PM.
Originally Posted by todddchi
- Front door speakers get bi-wired with factory wiring / using factory power setup (better than any head unit amp)
- Rear sail speakers get bi-wired using 1 pair of existing wires, and running the rear (hatch) wires up to the tweeter, if you want full range.
- Rear sail speakers get bi-wired using 1 pair of existing wires, and running the rear (hatch) wires up to the tweeter, if you want full range.
The vast majority of aftermarket decks are in the 15-22rms / 30-40 watt peak range per channel. Although I have yet to see a bench report of a monsoon amp, I have had a setup doing A-B comparing the monsoon amp to an aftermarket head unit amp - and the monsoon amp was undoubtedly stronger. So it is recommended to use it rather than re-wiring everything up to just the head unit.
The only exception I can think of is some of the new head units coming out with digital amplifiers. Panasonics, mostly. They have onboard amps around 30rms / 70 peak, I believe. That would probably be equal or better.
For you it is really simple. You wire the head unit up 100% normal. Just use a harness connecting all wires (including the speaker outputs).
You bi-wire the front speakers. There are two pairs of wires, one for woofer, one for tweeter. You just carry over those same wires onto your new speakers, there are many threads on speakers that accomodate this type of wiring.
In the back you'd do the same, except factory cars have two pairs of woofer wires in the sails (factory subs are DVC). So you'd only use one set for the woofer, tape off the other set, and then run the rear speaker wires (hatch panels) up to the tweeter of the new speaker.
The only exception I can think of is some of the new head units coming out with digital amplifiers. Panasonics, mostly. They have onboard amps around 30rms / 70 peak, I believe. That would probably be equal or better.
For you it is really simple. You wire the head unit up 100% normal. Just use a harness connecting all wires (including the speaker outputs).
You bi-wire the front speakers. There are two pairs of wires, one for woofer, one for tweeter. You just carry over those same wires onto your new speakers, there are many threads on speakers that accomodate this type of wiring.
In the back you'd do the same, except factory cars have two pairs of woofer wires in the sails (factory subs are DVC). So you'd only use one set for the woofer, tape off the other set, and then run the rear speaker wires (hatch panels) up to the tweeter of the new speaker.
I'd also consider using a stealth box if you can. They are more expensive than cheaper tubes but it such a nicer solution for our cars - you lose no space, they look really clean.
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Originally Posted by todddchi
I'd also consider using a stealth box if you can. They are more expensive than cheaper tubes but it such a nicer solution for our cars - you lose no space, they look really clean.