Trunk Unlock Problem
#1
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I have always used my keypad to open my trunk. Well, I unhooked all my stereo stuff a week or so ago, and had no problems with the trunk unlocking--did not expect any. Well, Thursday, I go out and unlock the trunk, and it won't unlock. Instead of a clicking noise that I always hear from the back of the car--the mechanism unlocking, I hear one from the front on the car, around the place under the dash where the button is to unlock the trunk. I go and press the button, same noise from the front of the car. Trunk won't unlock. I insert the key, and the key mechanism won't turn for the trunk. I had cut the aftermarket wiring harnesses off the stock harness, thus it was only the care factory wires, the night before, could that have caused this--some kind of theft deterrent? The doors unlocked through the keypad fine though. I had to crawl through the car and unbolt the mechanism to pop the trunk, and now the key turns fine--I have not shut the trunk though. Thanks!
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I believe the noise you are hearing is the relay going off (I believe there is one for it). Maybe you somehow cut a wire coming out from the relay? But that would not explain why it is not opening by key... Hmm, sounds weird. Hopefully someone more helpful will come in.
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Originally Posted by BoneSS
Now the key turns fine, but still no button unlock, and the odometer does not read.
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Does the release work with the button on the dash? The release is controlled by the BCM through a relay mounted under the left side of the dash near the big main instrument panel connector (the one with 60+ wires in it). The BCM triggers the relay either when the remote key fob button is pressed twice or when the dassh button is pressed.
The two fuses involved are the COURTESY fuse (#5) which provides power to the BCM, and the PWR ACCY fuse (#7) which provides power to the hatch release through the relay. Test or replace those fuses first (don't just look at them - they could be blown but look fine) and see if that fixes the problem.
The two fuses involved are the COURTESY fuse (#5) which provides power to the BCM, and the PWR ACCY fuse (#7) which provides power to the hatch release through the relay. Test or replace those fuses first (don't just look at them - they could be blown but look fine) and see if that fixes the problem.