Sub?
Drew
A 8 inch solo baric L5 in a sealed box would need between .33-.75 cubic feet (I would go closer to the .75).. Ported .66-1.0 (I would go closer to 1.0)
A 10 inch would need .66-1.0 for a sealed box (You guessed it I would build it closer to the 1.0)
The 8 in a ported box might produce close to the same amount of DB as the 10 in a sealed but will have a different sound. The 8 in a ported box will tend to drone a little more and not be as tight sounding as the 10 in a sealed box.
As for an amp I would look at these 3 for starters:
MTX 4202
Kicker KX150.2
Rockford Fosgate 200s
The MTX and Fosgate put out more than the kicker but are a little more money. I feel the Kicker would have enough to push the 8 or even the 10 if bridged and running the sub in 2 ohm.
All in all you would be looking at about $400-500 for everything if you build the box yourself. Hope that helps.
<small>[ May 27, 2002, 06:55 PM: Message edited by: LIL SS ]</small>
For sub enclosures you will have a few choices.You can go with the ussual 10" sub in the rear driver side storage area,or like me go with a Milhouse box which replaces the rear trunk flap.With this setup you still have T-top storage and as much bass as you want.The box can hold 2-10's or 1-12" sub.
I have one JL audio 12w3-4ohm bridged to 2 ohm being run by a Rockford fosgate 500.1 bridged to 600 watt rms and the thing kicks a$$.
Here is the link www.subthump.com
I don't want to go changing the whole system out, as I think it sounds awesome except I want just a tad more bass. I'm not looking for mega-expensive either. I listen to hard rock / metal, with some techno and industrial, so I don't need something that's going to blow my windows out <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
I also don't want to lose the t-top storage area either. Impossible?


