Broken041

Hi! I have been a lurking in the shadows for a little now. I recently purchased an '00 T/A and have been catching up in my reading. But. I do have this small question.

Last night I installed my Viper 800ESP, the remote start, the window module and my garage door opener. All works well. But. Yeah here is my fun. When I remote start, the radio comes on. It is powering up with the car, due to the Retained Acc Power. The radio is traditionally on the "key back" wire, which is the brown acc wire. But it appears that the RAP is kicking in causing the stereo to come on when I remote start. Ok. I fixed that tonight. I added a relay in behind the radio and broke the radio ignition wire while the car is remote started. That ensures that the radio does not play while the car is remote started. Sounds like I solved my own problem right? Wrong. Part of it is still going wrong. When I remote start, the stereo does not play. Now if I turn the car back off with the remote, the stereo comes on. The Retained Acc Power comes back into the picture. Ack! Which causes the ant to come up and the stereo to play. Grr. Ok. I like the RAP feature.......it works well for me so I want to keep it. I just don't want the stereo to play.

Can anyone shed some light on that one for me?


Kim

CashDudeHomie

iTrader: (5)

This does not make much sense to me. Any remote starter will start the car just as if you used a key, which means the radio will come on and the climate control will come on if they are left on when the car is turned off. The easiest way around it is to turn the radio off when you get out of the car. I have a remote starter and unless you have a bumping system, why would you care if the radio comes on?

Broken041

Well one of the biggest reasons that I do not want the stereo to play is because I do not want the screen to come out on my radio. It's an IVA-C800. Turning it off is an idea, but there is a way around it. I know it. I just cannot think right now.

Danny2tek

iTrader: (1)

<img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> just turn the radio off when you get out?

Broken041

Ah....it's cause I know there is a way so that I don't have to. I guess it's petty...but I'll keep thinking and working on this one.

Then I'll post how to do it for anyone that would care. LOL......it's all good.

Johnny

a viper 800 esp does not have a remote start module built into it you have to use a stand alone remote start module to make it start the car and wire it to one of the outputs on the alarm. i can't think of a single remote start module on the market these days that does not have a ground when activated output (these are used to energize things like PATS bypasses on some fords for example) if you run the ground when started (i think it is blue/black (a diode will be needed if your already useing this wire) on the dei remote start model number 551t i think is the model number) to a relay behind the radio (as in you need to add a relay) to interupt the switched wire while the remote start is activated it will solve your problem
forgive the typos if ya see them buzz is still kicking in but if you check into what i just typed you'll see i'm right
later

Kevin

iTrader: (1)

Even though you added the relay you are still supplying power to the radio thru the RAP lead. Ditch that lead all together and run the radio lead to a tru ignition...not acc. You'll still need the relay to break connection during remote start.

Kevin

Broken041

Johnny,
I did follow you. And believe it or not that is what I did. For the stereo part, I am using the blue/black for the relay behind the dash now. And yes, I am using a 551. The relay works fine when it is remote started. But when I turn it off by the remote, that is when the stereo comes on. I am thinking that I am going to trick the RAP circuit to think that the door is/has been opened, thus shutting the radio down. That is my thought......how wrong it is? Well....I'll get it sooner or later.

Kevin,
I already have a relay there. And I am following you on moving the ignition wire to true ignition vs being on the RAP circuit. It crossed my mind.....


Thanks all. I'll let you know when I overcome this petty little issue.

Kim

Kevin

iTrader: (1)

Yes I know you already have the relay on the RAP circuit and yes I am saying move the radio wire to a true ignition instead of a RAP circuit. Its on the new ignition wire I am saying you'll still need to add the relay to break the circuit.

Kevin

Chevy

My turn to try and put my 2cents with out being their. If the 551t has factory alarm rearm pulse one of the door triggers. The radio will then think the door was open. <img border="0" alt="[driving]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_driving3.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[chug]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_chug.gif" />

Johnny

that would work using the factory alarm output thingie.... buuuuut if the viper was armed he would set it off cause it would think the door was opened <img border="0" alt="[bang head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" /> also useing a true ignition would kinda suck cause now when you turn the key to the acc position the radio will not come on <img border="0" alt="[bang head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" /> now to solve your problem we can simply add A few more relays. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> by adding relays you can create a latching circuit and at this point you would still need a trigger to unlatch the circuit, but you could use your door triger for that. that way the radio cannot come on untill you open the door or if your alarm had domelight supervision hooked up untill you disarm the alarm. here is a diagram of how you could do that.
<img src="http://members.***.net/phat/diagram.jpg" alt=" - " />

<small>[ January 29, 2003, 11:49 PM: Message edited by: Johnny ]</small>

Broken041

SWEET! Let me get back to you on that one!

Broken041

Alrighty....here is the deal. The blue/black wire is triggering the relay that I am using to break the radio ignition wire. When the remote start is operational, the yellow ignition wire is broken. As soon as the remote start turned off, the RAP circuit kicked in. So now you want to add a door trigger into the mix to make the car think that door is open, thus killing the RAP circuit. Johnny, I just don't get how the door trigger relay is going to break the other raly coming from the 551T. You need to pulse the door trigger, not have the door trigger pulse the other relay right? Maybe I have been up too long and cannot think. I apologize for that.

But...I strayed again. This time I think it was a little easier. I removed my trigger wire for the relay off of the blue/black out of the 551T. I then moved it to the orange wire coming out of the 800ESP. That is a grounded when armed output. 99% of the time my car is armed when I remote start any of my vehicles. Don't really want anyone in the car when it is running. So 800 keeps the radio ignition wire broke while the car is armed. As soon as I unlock it reenergizes the radio ignion wire. That I can handle. Because now after the remote start is started and stopped by the remote, the radio ignition wire is still dead due to the "Ground when armed" wire. When I unlock the car, while it is remote started, then the radio will play as normal, as well as retaining the normal RAP function.

This is not the way that I intended....but it makes me happy now. So I extend a thank you to Johnny, Kevin, Chevy, and others who have thought about it. Thank you.

Kim

Johnny

that's cool i like to make things complicated it's more fun <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> buuuut question for ya? did ya put a diode on the orange wire? i would think the ground from the ignition would back feed the wire just enough to trip the relay when the ignition was off causeing the radio not to work in the acc position. the way the newer dei starter kills work lets negative back feed from the igntion into the orange wire. this causes probems for some alarm accessories but is solved with a diode.

Broken041

I did not use a diode on the orange wire. The orange wire does two purposes now. One of them is for the 530T (Windows). When I lock the car, the orange (ground when armed) triggers the 530T, causing both windows to roll up...if they were down. So...with me adding the trigger of the relay into the picture on that wire did not cause any interference or issues with ground feeding backwards through the coil of the relay. I am using a mini....from DEI or Accel. I cannot remember at the min. If it had done so, I was prepared with a diode to stop ground from going back through the relay.

Johnny

that's cool.....whoever installed the 530t woulda already installed the diode i was curious about. If they hadn't your windows would roll up evertime you turn the ignition off

Broken041

Ah yes...in terms of that yes. I tied in before the diode. No diode used for the relay, but one used for the 530T box

Matt_pick

I have a Viper remote start/ alarm 4-button key pad, when I use remote start the radio stays off, I dont turn it off before I shut the truck off, how can I make it to where it turns on witht he remote start?